blakep82
|
| posted on 6/3/09 at 12:37 AM |
|
|
a few electrics questions :)
first few of many probably... 
1) i've got 2 fuse boxes, both with 6 fuses. 1 i plan on using for permanant live circuits, the 2nd for switched stuff.
the perm live one is easy enough, connect to the battery, but the switched one, should this be used with a relay? or are key switches generally able
to take the current ok?
2) relays. i've got LED lights on the back, i'd probably prefer the LED flasher units over putting resistors in the series with the
lights. i'd prefer to have 2 different indicator lights inside the car, left AND right. which relay (pref from CBS) should i use?
3) do headlights need a flasher? or can i just have an off-on(1)-on (1+2) switch, and an on off switch for main and dip? with no flash facility? is it
a problem if the headlights can stay on without ignition on?
4) warning lights... do they have to have symbols on? which ones?
cheers! 
plenty more to come 
[Edited on 6/3/09 by blakep82]
________________________
IVA manual link http://www.businesslink.gov.uk/bdotg/action/detail?type=RESOURCES&itemId=1081997083
don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
|
|
|
|
|
C10CoryM
|
| posted on 6/3/09 at 01:42 AM |
|
|
1- depends on the ignition switch, but yes most OEM switches have large wires/contacts for the RUN circuits.
2- any electronic flasher should work. The electronic ones use a timer instead of current to control how fast it flashes. The LEDs may need
resistors anyhow though as they usually dont like over 5V.
3- flash to pass is a saftey requirement here. No idea about there.
4- hazards need to be clearly marked and visible from drivers seat here. No idea about there.
Cheers.
"Our watchword evermore shall be: The Maple Leaf Forever!"
|
|
|
DorsetStrider
|
| posted on 6/3/09 at 02:49 AM |
|
|
As above
Who the f**K tightened this up!
|
|
|
02GF74
|
| posted on 6/3/09 at 07:15 AM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by C10CoryM
2- fit electronic flasher should work. If you are fitting LED bulbs, these will have drop resisotrs fitted to run off 12 V. I could go on about the
5 V bit above not being correct but won't.
3- I reckon you need momentary main beam, someone needs to check the SVA book to confirm.
4- only the brake test lamp needs to be marks with symbol.
Cheers.
|
|
|
C10CoryM
|
| posted on 7/3/09 at 12:54 AM |
|
|
Since I was called out for it, yes LEDs do not like too much current. The voltage doesn't matter. The 5V part just happens to be about the
maximum voltage you get when you reduce the current to the safe amount (depending on the LED. People often get confused measuring current so I
sometimes just use that spec instead.
quote:
Originally posted by 02GF74
quote:
Originally posted by C10CoryM
2- fit electronic flasher should work. If you are fitting LED bulbs, these will have drop resisotrs fitted to run off 12 V. I could go on about the
5 V bit above not being correct but won't.
3- I reckon you need momentary main beam, someone needs to check the SVA book to confirm.
4- only the brake test lamp needs to be marks with symbol.
Cheers.
"Our watchword evermore shall be: The Maple Leaf Forever!"
|
|
|
blakep82
|
| posted on 7/3/09 at 01:20 AM |
|
|
cheers guys
so just one or two follow up questions then,
what sort of current should i expect to put through my key switch?
will this relay do for indicators?
http://www.cbsonline.co.uk/electronic-flasher-relay--erly-1823-p.asp
i've had mmy led light units plugged into a 12v power supply, they're happy enough. apparently good for up to 24v
momentary beam, i can do it easy enough, but has anyone got a double pole momentary chrome toggle switch laying about? need to power the bulb and
the dip flap solenoid
________________________
IVA manual link http://www.businesslink.gov.uk/bdotg/action/detail?type=RESOURCES&itemId=1081997083
don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
|
|
|
