02GF74
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| posted on 17/2/06 at 08:40 AM |
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loom - needs to have outer covering?
Does the wiring loom need (for SVA) to have an outer covering - split convoluted or sprial wrap tubing - wrapped around it?
i.e. is it ok just to wrap it up with insulation tape?
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 17/2/06 at 08:44 AM |
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The testers won't accept insulation tape.
They may accept proper loom tape (the non-sticky stuff) if you manage to do a really tidy job.
I wouldn't use spiral wrap, except for very short lengths - I used it for everything, but it was a tedious job and it makes later modification a
real PITA.
If I was doing it again (or when I next make any mods) I would use split convoluted tube - it's fairly cheap, quick to install, does an
effective job of protecting the wiring and looks neat. Get a few sizes so that you can use the right size for each part of the loom.
cheers,
David
[Edited on 17/2/06 by David Jenkins]
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RazMan
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| posted on 17/2/06 at 08:54 AM |
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I have used heat shrink tubing where possible - it makes a good protection coating for areas which get dirty easily and stops water getting in cable
connections (in wheel arches for example)
Everything else has split convoluted tube. This ensures that you can add that forgotten wire easily (spiral wrap is a pain)
[Edited on 17-2-06 by RazMan]
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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nick205
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| posted on 17/2/06 at 08:55 AM |
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My Vikki Green loom was already wrapped in non-sticky loom tape. Where I have made additions and extensions to the loom I have wrapped them in the
same non-sticky loom tape. The whole lot is then sheathed in split convuluted tubing of various diameters and secured to the chassis with rubber
cushioned metal P clips or cable ties.
I've use Vehicle Wiring Products for all the electrical bits I've needed. Excellent range of products kept in stock, helpful people and
quick delivery.
HTH
Nick
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02GF74
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| posted on 17/2/06 at 08:58 AM |
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thaks for quick response;
convoluted tape it is then.
how through are the examiners?
will they want me to remove the nose cone?
The 2 sections of loom are:
1. indicators in nose cone; this will be held in place with resin to hold p-clips or other type of clips
2. headlamp wiring - routed across a chassis strut, held on by cable ties.
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donut
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| posted on 17/2/06 at 09:01 AM |
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If you use insulating tape it will look really kak! Best to go with what peeps on here suggest, after all you don't want to fail on the wiring
and have to rip it all out as that would be a nightmare!!
Andy
When I die, I want to go peacefully like my Grandfather did, in his sleep -- not screaming, like the passengers in his car.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/andywest1/
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smart51
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| posted on 17/2/06 at 09:06 AM |
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My wiring loom was supplied in a split tube with sticky insulation tape around the joins. I modded the loom somewhat and used insulation tape around
the new bits. The bike loom in the engine bay also used some insulation tape. I made a sub loom for the instruments under the dash and used
insulation tape. Mr SVA inspected them all thoroughly and made no comments at all.
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bimbleuk
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| posted on 17/2/06 at 09:09 AM |
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RE: Inspection
If it looks like it was designed to be removed easily then they will very likely ask you to do so. For example vinyl covers held on with poppers and
access panels with simple screw fixings (like my pedal box lid).
So if your nose cone was bolted on then unlikely to be romved. Just remember this, if they can't see it then they can't test it! The
underside of my dashboard is completely panelled which stopped them laughing at my wiring 
[Edited on 17/2/06 by bimbleuk]
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 17/2/06 at 09:17 AM |
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My nose cone is held on with 4 Dzus fasteners, and I wasn't asked to remove it - I'd guess that he could see enough from above and below
to satisfy his curiosity (he did do a LOT of the inspection from below).
David
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