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Author: Subject: R1 Wiring
locoboy

posted on 13/1/07 at 06:38 PM Reply With Quote
R1 Wiring

Been at the wiring all day today with Jos (thanks for the guidance!)

Basics.
R1 loom, Sealed beam headlights, standard 4 pin relays, R1 handlebar switches.

Right the story so far........

Checked that i had labeled the loom correctly and re labeled any mistakes.........Check done.

Attached clocks, battery, ignition barrel, exup motor, CDI, Rectifier, starter relay, fusebox, indicator relay, and all the engine plugs.............

Put key in and turned it and we had lights on the clocks, the exup motor whirred, the rev counter kept going from zero to mid way ( i beleive this is normal), oil symbol was displayed because there is no oil in it, temp was at LO, and the milage was displayed on the LCD............all good and there were smiles all round.

Next job was to get the sidelights working......after a bit of head scratching we got them working.

Next was Dipped beam....... no problems there.

Then High beam.............

with the sealed beam unit wired in and with dipped beam on (using a rear fog bulb as a side light replacement as i dindnt have any sidelight bulbs for the sealed beam units)

when we flicked it from dipped to high beam something began to groan! and the sidelight bulb lost intensity and stayed dim and the high beam 'ON' telltale on the clocks was flickering violently.

We turned the ignition off and then back on and nothing happened...........

We took off all our temporary lighting circuits and still no joy with the audable exup whirr or the lights and display on the clocks.

We have checked fuses and all that, we have 12V in the loom and up to the clocks but nothing is registering.

Here are our main questions.

Does the CDI, Rectifier have anything to do with any curcuits other than engine related ones? ie could we have blown it and it affect the lighting and the clocks?

Is there a chance we could have knackered the clocks?

If the clocks were knackered does it stop basic circuits from working i.e could it be causing the now non working exup motor?

Lastly how can i test the clocks? it may be a blown LED on the clocks as they were flashing when we went to full beam, how can i test an LED? Continuity test? What sort of resistance should i see when putting the meter across it?

Lastly, what the hell could have been groaning! it was all on the bench and it sounded like it was coming from the headlight we were switching to high beam but we never left it on long enough to be sure what it was for fear of doing irepairable damage!

Would really appreciate your input on this one guys as we are back to having nothing working now

Sorry for all the questions





ATB
Locoboy

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smart51

posted on 13/1/07 at 06:53 PM Reply With Quote
The CDI is the ignition control unit. It switches the coil to make the sparks. You need it.

The rectifier/regulator take the AC voltage from the generator and turns it into a nice DC voltage for charging your battery. You need this as well really.

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locoboy

posted on 13/1/07 at 07:14 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks for the advice but thats not really what i was getting at.

I have all the CDI and rectifier etc etc i need to know if knackering one of the above would affect the lighting circuits or the clocks.





ATB
Locoboy

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esn163

posted on 13/1/07 at 07:17 PM Reply With Quote
Hi,

just a thought, when I had a similar problem when wiring our blade (a live somewhere touched the chassis then everything died), I checked all fuses in fuse box but forgot about the one in the starter relay which turned out to be the one that went.

Does the R1 have a similar arrangement if so it might be worth checking if you haven't already.

Edit not too sure about the R1 but the ECU, clocks and rectifier all act seperately on the blade.

I doubt one of these could cause basic stuff like lighting circuits etc to pack up - it sounds more like a supply problem somewhere. Have you checked you have 12V at the fuse box for each circuit?

HTH


Ed

[Edited on 13/1/07 by esn163]





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jos

posted on 13/1/07 at 07:22 PM Reply With Quote
yup check them its got 30amp and spare 30 amp fuse in it, changed that for the spare and no luck





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BenB

posted on 13/1/07 at 07:48 PM Reply With Quote
Stuff going dim, lights flashing etc when something is switched sounds v like voltage loss either through a knackered battery or a short circuit taking the voltage down (but then I'd expect fuses to start blowing curing the problem!!!).....

Are you only getting 12v on the supply. Should be more like 13 volts upwards??? Are you sure all the testing up until that point hasn't simply knackered the battery?!?! Worth checking if you haven't done so already....

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locoboy

posted on 13/1/07 at 08:17 PM Reply With Quote
the battery is a week old and its a Varta bike battery.

It has been on a battery conditioner plugged in all the time untill this morning.

I was getting 12.1V at the clocks and when we put the headlight bulb across the battery it lit up no problems.

All fuses seem to be ok.

Will check for V at each of the fuses tomorrow.





ATB
Locoboy

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locoboy

posted on 14/1/07 at 12:42 PM Reply With Quote
Battery voltage when i connected it just a minute ago was 13.06V, and all the fuses have power to them.

I have got 13.06V to the clocks but only 11.34V when i checked the clutch switch? why would you get differing readings throughout the loom?

Turned the ignition key and still no activity on the clocks

Anyone got a spare set of clocks either i could try or you can try mine on your car and see if they are working?





ATB
Locoboy

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Deckman001

posted on 14/1/07 at 04:14 PM Reply With Quote
Isn't the bike lights wiring switched earth and car wiring switched earth, something like that anyway, what switching are you using?? Sierra stalks or dash mounted separates??

Jason






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locoboy

posted on 14/1/07 at 04:42 PM Reply With Quote
im using the bike switchgear in an attempt to keep it simple!





ATB
Locoboy

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Deckman001

posted on 14/1/07 at 05:19 PM Reply With Quote
I think the clutch switch is an earth switch just linked to the ecu or something, I don't have the R1 wiring diagram any more
Are you using the original diagram for refference, or just connecting where the conectors fit ??
If you don't have a diagram, give desyboy a u2u for it (he'll love me for that) I think he saved to computer
Jason






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locoboy

posted on 14/1/07 at 09:46 PM Reply With Quote
Hi,

I am using the bike bits and bobs to make life simpler, I have checked and labeld the loom and identified all the connectors as per the haynes colour wiring diagram.

If my clocks are knackered will it stop circuits working?

Also how do i test an led to see if its blown?

Cheers





ATB
Locoboy

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chockymonster

posted on 14/1/07 at 10:24 PM Reply With Quote
No it won't stop circuits from working.
I had my engine fired up and running with no clocks attached. The only feeds up to the clock are for the tell tales, an few ecu feeds for the tacho and speed and that's it.

What year R1 is it? If it's an 03 and no one else has one around you then I'll try out your clocks on mine if that would help?





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Deckman001

posted on 14/1/07 at 10:38 PM Reply With Quote
Best thing I would suggest is take a look at the wiring Diagram, print a spare copy, then go round the diagram ticking off where you should have power and do have it, then trace back to any conections or fuses in the missing power circuits. Hope this helps, also don't forget to check all the earths as well, as alot of these will be switched as well.

Jason






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chockymonster

posted on 15/1/07 at 07:57 AM Reply With Quote
As for power fluctuations.

I get different voltages all over the wiring loom.





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locoboy

posted on 15/1/07 at 06:39 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by chockymonster
No it won't stop circuits from working.
I had my engine fired up and running with no clocks attached. The only feeds up to the clock are for the tell tales, an few ecu feeds for the tacho and speed and that's it.

What year R1 is it? If it's an 03 and no one else has one around you then I'll try out your clocks on mine if that would help?


Hi Its a 98/99 4XV

I will study the diagram tonight and see if i can figure out where i should and should not have power / earth.





ATB
Locoboy

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jos

posted on 17/1/07 at 11:32 AM Reply With Quote
Does anybody know if there is a tilt sensor which cuts the ignition if you have a tumble???

or a reset switch if the big red kill switch is activated????





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locoboy

posted on 18/1/07 at 10:56 AM Reply With Quote
No tilt switch according to the wiring diagram





ATB
Locoboy

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Deckman001

posted on 19/1/07 at 05:26 PM Reply With Quote
There was on the loom I wired in, it was kept in situ by mounting it against the tunnel rail

Jason






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