Mark G
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| posted on 16/12/08 at 08:20 PM |
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2 Questions, Main beam + Speed sensor?
Hi all
I have 2 questions for you all to baffle me with your knowledgeable answers.
I'll go with the easy one first. I've wired in my lights and all seem to be ok now, the only problem is that with the dipped beam off if
I push the main beam forward (lock on) the lights actually come on and stay on. Is this ok or do they have to not work until the dipped beam lights
are on?
Second quesiton is related to the speed sensor I have for my Koso. I'm assuming its pretty similar for any electric speedo. I have some
magnets to put on the prop. Most people seem to have drilled the prop adaptor but I'm strugeling as mine is hard as nails. I was thinking of
turning a piece of ally so it bolts between the adaptor and the prop and then drilling the side of this piece for the magnets to fit. I've
drawn up a tacky diagram to help make sense of my rambelings.
Ideas on this one please chaps, good idea or not? My thinking is that the magnets are less likely to come out as the centrifugal forces are thowing
it outwards there is nowhere for them to go as they'll be fitted from the side. On the other hand is it a bad idea to have an extra plate on
the prop as it may crush over time and the bolts come loose?
Thanks
Mark.
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stevebubs
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| posted on 16/12/08 at 08:35 PM |
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£20 for similar from here
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Mark G
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| posted on 16/12/08 at 08:39 PM |
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Thats the sort of thing. Would ally be too soft?
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martyn_16v
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| posted on 16/12/08 at 09:10 PM |
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I drilled my magnets into one of the output flanges on the diff. Was suprisingly/worryingly easy to drill 
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Mark G
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| posted on 16/12/08 at 09:29 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by martyn_16v
I drilled my magnets into one of the output flanges on the diff. Was suprisingly/worryingly easy to drill
Good idea, but I don't have output flanges, My shafts are men and my diff's a bit of a girl. 
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ReMan
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| posted on 16/12/08 at 10:24 PM |
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No the lights is not right
Mains should at least be a swap for the dip, once the lights are on, not a means of turning the lights on..
Presumably you have another ligts on/off switch too?
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speedyxjs
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| posted on 17/12/08 at 08:11 AM |
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I may not have understood your first question but my tintops all have the full beam and main beam lights come on with the full beam switch.
As for the prop, you would have to be very carful not to imbalance the prop. I remember seeing a post a couple of year back with pics of the prop
breaking and coming through the tranny tunnel
How long can i resist the temptation to drop a V8 in?
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Mark G
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| posted on 18/12/08 at 02:13 PM |
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Sorry chaps, I don't think I explained my lighting problem very well. Let me start again
With the dipped beam on, when main beam is sellected the dipped beam turns off. This is how I designed the loom and I'm happy with this. The
problem is when the dipped beam is off, I can pull the switch back to flash and its ok but I can also push the switch forwards and the main beam still
comes on and obviously stays on until the switch is pulled back.
I don't know if this is allowed.
I'm probably still confusing some of you so I'll make a very short video of it later when I go down and post it on here.
Mark.
PS my lighting loom is below..
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Schrodinger
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| posted on 18/12/08 at 06:29 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Mark G
Thats the sort of thing. Would ally be too soft?
A hall effect sensor like the one in the etb site needs a magnetic effect of some description so the disk needs to be steel not ally. However, to use
the ETB one it really needs to be used with a fixed diff and not a live axle as the tollerances are quite tight.
Keith
Aviemore
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Mark G
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| posted on 18/12/08 at 07:51 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Schrodinger
quote:
Originally posted by Mark G
Thats the sort of thing. Would ally be too soft?
A hall effect sensor like the one in the etb site needs a magnetic effect of some description so the disk needs to be steel not ally. However, to use
the ETB one it really needs to be used with a fixed diff and not a live axle as the tollerances are quite tight.
It doesn't need to be steel as the sensor picks up the readings from the magnets you install in the ring, not the cutouts in the ring. Although
I appreciate the input about the tolerances.
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Mark G
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| posted on 18/12/08 at 07:59 PM |
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I went to do some work on the car earlier and apart from finding that one of my brake pipes leaks like sieve I recorded a 30 second video to show
whats happening with my lights.
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=eVP96nhvswc
Basically the main beam will stick on with no other lights on, is this ok for SVA?
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Mark G
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| posted on 1/1/09 at 11:33 AM |
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Can anyone tell me if my main beam switch is ok for sva?
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