Antnicuk
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| posted on 23/5/09 at 11:14 PM |
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Electrical interference question/problem
I have had issues with some of my digital gadgets in the cockpit, if I high rev the car they get a bit scrambled and either turn off, reset, give
strange readings or just switch on and off again.
I have a shift light with a digi rev counter in the middle of it, I have an ecu display screen and a Koso digi dash and they are all doing it.
I have fitted a voltage stabiliser and it made no difference and the problem has got worse since i had it dynoed, where it used to do it very
occasionally, it now does it nearly every time.
Is there anything i can put in the wiring to stop it happening, also what is it?
[Edited on 23-5-09 by Antnicuk]
600 BHP per ton, Stylus Brought back from the dead! Turbo Rotary Powered!
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daniel mason
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| posted on 23/5/09 at 11:40 PM |
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i am havin similar probs with my digital guages. the vr2 is very hit and miss and turns off all the time and spa digital oil pressure/water temp guage
gives all sorts of readings. almost as if its getting irregular voltages?
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nitram38
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| posted on 23/5/09 at 11:49 PM |
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Both on BEC's?
If so try replacing the rectifier........
No problems with the VR2 or innovate XD16 gauge on my R1 powered MotaLeira.
[Edited on 23/5/2009 by nitram38]
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daniel mason
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| posted on 23/5/09 at 11:57 PM |
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mine is R1 powered.the other is a wankel!
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nitram38
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| posted on 24/5/09 at 12:00 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by daniel mason
mine is R1 powered.the other is a wankel!
Easy!!!!
Another thing to try is check all your connections/earths. You will be suprised what a common earth that is loose will cause.
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wilkingj
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| posted on 24/5/09 at 08:32 AM |
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I agree.
Check all your earths.
They should be bare metal to the chassis.
ie scrape / sand back to bare metal so you get a good contact.
Then grease with Petroleum Jelly.
You can use grease, but we have been using PJ for over 40 years on battery and electrical terminals.
Buy the plain PJ from a chemists, Vasseline is just an expensive form of it. However you wont need much.
You dont want those nice clean connections to rust and give you your problems back!
I welded some lugs onto the chassis with a bolt hole in them for the Main Earths.
Make communal earthing points, ie take all the earths in one area back to the same point. This helps stop earth loops. Which is more a problem for
audio equipment - However, electronic equipment can also suffer with effects like you describe.
Also, Use quality crimps (The blue Lucar connectors)
and MORE IMPORTANTLY use a quality crimp tool.
Mine was about £17.
Get one of the ratchet type that will only allow you to do the crimp up to the correct pressure.
Those £2 yellow handled pliers are total crap. They do allow you to compress the crimp. However they never crimp to the correct pressure, as you
cannot guarantee uniformity using your hands alone!.
These cheap tools introduce nasty hard to find faults in the years to come. ie when the weather gets into the crimp and starts to oxidise it making
high resistance connections, and thus those hard to find faults.
From what I have seen on this and other forums the Electrics probably holds more fear for more people than any other item of the build.
Its worth checking the rectifier as if one diode is faulty, then it will give all sorts of funny results escpecially with Electronics gauges etc. Not
only that it could damage your digital gauges.
1. The point of a journey is not to arrive.
2. Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.
Best Regards
Geoff
http://www.v8viento.co.uk
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Antnicuk
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| posted on 24/5/09 at 07:09 PM |
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thanks, I use a ratchet crimp tool, like you say the others are crap.
I have a big earth wire running from the battery which bolts to the chassis at the bacck of the car and then continues to under the dash where it
joins with all the other earth wires from the dash. The only thing that may not be earthed to well is the engine itself so i will continue the earth
wire on into the engine bay and earth the engine and coils (battery is in the boot)
600 BHP per ton, Stylus Brought back from the dead! Turbo Rotary Powered!
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wilkingj
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| posted on 24/5/09 at 09:52 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Antnicuk
thanks, I use a ratchet crimp tool, like you say the others are crap.
. The only thing that may not be earthed to well is the engine itself so i will continue the earth wire on into the engine bay and earth the engine
and coils (battery is in the boot)
You need an earth on the engine, and it needs to be thick. This carries the returning currrent form the startermotor.
At least have a large earth strap from the Engine to the Chassis. This is a Must for ALL cars.
You dont want to be putting all the starter motor current through the throttle cable! (They melt and catch fire - I've seen that happen
once).
Sounds like you are on the right track..
Cheers
1. The point of a journey is not to arrive.
2. Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.
Best Regards
Geoff
http://www.v8viento.co.uk
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Antnicuk
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| posted on 25/5/09 at 10:29 AM |
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after writing the above post i remembered that where the fat earth wire joins the dash earth wires under the dash it then goes through the bulk head
and connects to the chassis, engine block and coils... so i am happy with the earth's but i will try bolting one to the turbo as well.
600 BHP per ton, Stylus Brought back from the dead! Turbo Rotary Powered!
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