pigiron
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| posted on 8/11/12 at 08:59 PM |
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Honda S2000 installation?
I am thinking of fitting a Honda s2000 engine and box to a rear wheel drive Ford KA.
To keep costs down I would prefer to run with standard ecu loom and what ever else would be required from the doner to make it run, space is not an
issue as the car has a Sierra bulk head and tunnel.
My main concern is the electronics, I have spent time searching but I can't find the diffinitive information I am looking for.
Is the anyone out there with the knowledge I need, or can you point me in the right direction.
Many thanks.
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daniel mason
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| posted on 8/11/12 at 09:13 PM |
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this my friend,will open a can of worms. i say decent aftermarket ecu.others will say otherwise
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tilly819
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| posted on 8/11/12 at 09:29 PM |
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mine runs on the standard ECU, dead easy if you understand basic circuits. remember the engine and ecu work together in the s2000 why should they not
work together in another chassis afterall the ecu does not give a toss about anything other than the engine and the ignition key! the aftermarket ecu
makes it more complex and A LOT more expensive.
my s2000 install
http://www.haynes.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=6867&highlight=Got+a+new+Engine
Cheers
tilly
F20C Haynes roadster 440 BHP/Tonne www.youtube.com/handmadeextreme
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Brett Jones
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| posted on 8/11/12 at 09:38 PM |
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I’m assuming that you’re using the engine loom, dash loom and clocks from the S2000 then there are two main things you need to do. Firstly you need to
get the immobilizer disabled if you not going to use the steering column and ignition. There are a few people on the Sk2 forum who can do this for you
or you can purchase a second hand ECU off eBay with this already done. Secondly you’ll need to fit a resistor to simulate the air pump or it will
throw a “cel” (check engine light) and the engine may go into limp mode. If you have a look on the http://www.s2ki.com/s2000/ forum and search for
"air pump delete kit" you’ll find out what I mean. There is also another option of fitting a resistor inline to the temp sensor thus
making the ECU thinking that the car is warmer than it is and therefore does not need to switch the air pump on, the down side of this is that the
temp gauge will be incorrect.
Hopes this helps.
[Edited on 8/11/12 by Brett Jones]
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tilly819
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| posted on 8/11/12 at 09:43 PM |
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if you can get the ignition barrel then you can keep the imobiliser and dont have to worry about bypassing it, also its a good for piece of mind to
have the imobiliser.
not sure about the resistor, i have CEL on on mine all the time but i think thats from not having a cat and the second lambda, but it has never gone
into limp mode, might look into this myself.
Tilly
F20C Haynes roadster 440 BHP/Tonne www.youtube.com/handmadeextreme
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SeanStone
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| posted on 8/11/12 at 09:47 PM |
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I'd go aftermarket also
It's not running standard so having the option to map it after is a good thing to have IMO
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pigiron
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| posted on 8/11/12 at 09:47 PM |
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Very interesting Tilly, obviously a man after my own heart.
"just got the engine loom, under dash loom ecu, ign barrel and key. chopped out all the redundant wiring (about 90% of it) put in some new fuses
and relays for lights, fuel pump etc turned the key, touched the wires together and away she went."
The under dash loom you mention; is this the one that goes to the ign barrel?
Any chance you could expand?.... please.
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tilly819
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| posted on 8/11/12 at 09:52 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by pigiron
Very interesting Tilly, obviously a man after my own heart.
"just got the engine loom, under dash loom ecu, ign barrel and key. chopped out all the redundant wiring (about 90% of it) put in some new fuses
and relays for lights, fuel pump etc turned the key, touched the wires together and away she went."
The under dash loom you mention; is this the one that goes to the ign barrel?
Any chance you could expand?.... please.
thats exactly what i did except i also removed the wiring for the lights and have those separate.
yes the underdash loom is the one that goes to the barrel and the clocks, (you can use aftermarket clocks if you want it doesnt make a difference)
IIRC there is also a small fusebox in it also but i can not be certain.
tilly
F20C Haynes roadster 440 BHP/Tonne www.youtube.com/handmadeextreme
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tilly819
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| posted on 8/11/12 at 09:53 PM |
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were abouts are you based by the way?
tilly
F20C Haynes roadster 440 BHP/Tonne www.youtube.com/handmadeextreme
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daniel mason
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| posted on 8/11/12 at 09:53 PM |
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im not doubting that you can get it running. but i would imagine that to get the best out of it and keep the fuelling right, then the best option by
far would be aftermarket.
throttle bodies, exhaust,launch control etc can be fitted with aftermarket ecus, or possibly supercharging or turbo.
obviuosly this is the most expensive route,but its what i did and what id do next time!
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Brett Jones
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| posted on 8/11/12 at 10:09 PM |
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Under the dash loom is if you want to use the S2000 clocks / cluster.
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pigiron
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| posted on 8/11/12 at 10:10 PM |
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I'm in north west France, the car is an autocross race car, 700kg.
I will not need to worry about clocks, we don't get time to look at them in any case, just an oil light and conventional oil pressure gauge, is
all I need. However a shift light would be usefull.
I prety sure I can fit the standard exhaust manifold so the instal would be very close to standard, so I cant see the need for remapping an
aftermarket ECU would offer.
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unijacko67
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| posted on 9/11/12 at 12:08 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by tilly819
mine runs on the standard ECU, dead easy if you understand basic circuits. remember the engine and ecu work together in the s2000 why should they not
work together in another chassis afterall the ecu does not give a toss about anything other than the engine and the ignition key! the aftermarket ecu
makes it more complex and A LOT more expensive.
my s2000 install
http://www.haynes.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=6867&highlight=Got+a+new+Engine
Cheers
tilly [/quote
This is also the way I am going to try. Standard s2000 loom, clocks and ecu and chop out all the extra redundant parts.
I hope I find it dead easy, as I have heard it can be a bit tricky. I would like more info on the air pump byepass trick as I would still like temp
gauge to work. It would be interesting to know how many s2000 installs are standard ecu as after market ecu.
http://www.kittenkitcar.co.uk
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PeteS2k
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| posted on 9/11/12 at 09:10 AM |
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If you've got all the looms, the ECU, immobiliser bits, information regarding bypassing the emissions control circuits etc, and the desire to
actually do it, then using the OEM ECU is probably pretty straight forward.
If you're missing any of the above, or may be looking for a bit of flexibility in mapping, now or in the future, then using an after-market ECU
is also pretty straight forward. The wiring required to run the engine really isn't very complicated, and there are ECUs that use the stock
sensors.
It's really a question of balancing the additional costs of the aftermarket ECU, (including getting it mapped) vs the potential hassles of
trying to get the OEM system to work, if you don't have all the bits (and knowledge!) required.
I started my project assuming that the OEM would be the least risk, cheapest way to go, but in may case, the balance of cost vs. hassle swung to using
DTA S60 Pro.  (Came with a map for the engine, uses stock sensors, and the manufacturer was relatively local in case of major issues)
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BaileyPerformance
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| posted on 9/11/12 at 05:11 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by pigiron
I am thinking of fitting a Honda s2000 engine and box to a rear wheel drive Ford KA.
To keep costs down I would prefer to run with standard ecu loom and what ever else would be required from the doner to make it run, space is not an
issue as the car has a Sierra bulk head and tunnel.
My main concern is the electronics, I have spent time searching but I can't find the diffinitive information I am looking for.
Is the anyone out there with the knowledge I need, or can you point me in the right direction.
Many thanks.
We can do the COMPLETE engine wiring and electronics (megasquirt) including starter and alternator wiring, parts, labour and mapping on the stock
engine for £1200.
Stick Jenveys on it for 260-270BHP!!
www.baileyperformance.co.uk
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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boggybogstar
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| posted on 16/11/12 at 08:44 PM |
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Im at this stage presently, ive got the choice of using my existing Emerald or the stock Ecu.
I dont want to turn the debate into aftemarket or stock but at this stage i want ti use the stock ECU and loom, i have everything, key, barrel etc
etc, apart from tge dash loom which is the biggest worry at the moment.
Im encouraged by this tgread though, it looks like its more straight forward than ive been reading, i just dont know what to do with the ecu pinouts
where the dash loom goes?
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tilly819
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| posted on 16/11/12 at 10:14 PM |
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Get a copy of the workshop manual from ebay they are about £4 on a cd in PDF that has all the wiring in it and pin outs etc
tilly
F20C Haynes roadster 440 BHP/Tonne www.youtube.com/handmadeextreme
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PeteS2k
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| posted on 17/11/12 at 08:17 AM |
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Have a hunt online... you can find free downloads. About 28Mb.
Here's one link that appears to work...
http://pdfownersmanual.blogspot.co.uk/2011/09/pdf-2000-2003-honda-s2000-service.html
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boggybogstar
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 posted on 17/11/12 at 09:46 AM |
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Ive managed to get the owners manual and printed out the sections in section 22, its a nightmare trying to find the relevant bits on a scaned pdf file
but im sure ill get there in the end :-)
I think us s2000 builders need to all get together and sort mine out 
The thing i cant find in the manual is what to do with some of the pin outs on the plug that i havent got, or what to do with things like the air con
sensors etc, which i think was tge theme of the OP
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unijacko67
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| posted on 27/2/13 at 08:59 PM |
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Ok so ive got it running sweetly now and when its warm ticks over at about 1000 rpm, air pump and fuse box and all wires to it removed, temp gauge
still working fine. Also partially stripped other circuits out like ABS (will all come out when I get time).
When the engine is cold the part that the cold air pump pipe used to go to (looks like a thermostat housing) makes a waffling noise, but if I
disconnect the wires that go to the original air box or that vacuum trigger bit of plastic (I cant remember which I unplugged, I think it was the one
to the black plastic thing with small vacuum pipes) it all switches off and runs quite well even when cold.
Has anyone got any pictures of your vacuum pipe setup. And which if any of the air intake associated wires do I need.
Its good to read in this thread that it should all run well with bits like abs removed as I don’t want to take it down the road and it go into limp
mode.
 
s2000 wiring made simple ?
http://www.kittenkitcar.co.uk
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