locoboy
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| posted on 14/2/07 at 03:06 PM |
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headlights wiring
Im probably getting myself a bit confused again and need setting on the right path!
For my headlights do i run one wire down to the front and split it in a Y and run one to the right and one to the left..............
Or do i run one wire to the left light then carry it on from the left light accross to the right light?
each will have seperate earths so no problem there, its just the feeds im getting confused about! 
ATB
Locoboy
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worX
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| posted on 14/2/07 at 03:09 PM |
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I've run TWO lots of wires down the left side.
Which were actually just elongations of the Blade loom.
Apart from the sidelight wire - that was a single, so I did "Y" that at the front...
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RazMan
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| posted on 14/2/07 at 03:10 PM |
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Separate feeds and earths are the order of the day. Ideally these need to be right back to the fusebox, even on separate circuits but not
essential.
Remember the current for EACH headlight will be up to 5 amps so make sure that if you tee them together at any point, the wiring is capable of
carrying at least 10amps (15amps is even better)
HTH
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 14/2/07 at 03:14 PM |
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To extend what Raz said - it's worth having a separate fuse for each headlight circuit so that you don't go blind when your fuse blows on
a dark night. I have 4 headlight fuses L & R dip, L & R main.
I also have 1 fuse for the left sidelights, and another for the righ-hand ones.
Not compulsory, but seemed like a good idea.
David
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02GF74
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| posted on 14/2/07 at 03:20 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by RazMan
Separate feeds and earths are the order of the day. Ideally these need to be right back to the fusebox, even on separate circuits but not
essential.
separate circuits are better (not sure what SVA state - I doubt they are able to determine one way or the other) becasue if one fuse or wire fails,
you still have the other headlamp working - could make a big difference if driving a night.
arrggghh, orang-utan beat me to it
[Edited on 14/2/07 by 02GF74]
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macnab
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| posted on 14/2/07 at 03:24 PM |
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hmm I would have used just one coming from a switching relay (one relay for main and another for dip) and a take a feed from the other light at the
first lights connector. After all if the fuse went you can just switch to the working circuit. I like to keep the electrics as simple as possable
since there's less to go wrong then and I use quite thick cables and soldered connections with heatshrink plus loads of tie wraps.
[Edited on 14/2/07 by macnab]
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locoboy
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| posted on 14/2/07 at 03:26 PM |
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I am using the r1 loom which all runs off the same fuse, so no choice there.
just need to know whether to Y the feed or to link from one light to the other?
ATB
Locoboy
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macnab
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| posted on 14/2/07 at 03:30 PM |
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no right or wrong way you'll just have to choose complicated or easy
[Edited on 14/2/07 by macnab]
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02GF74
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| posted on 14/2/07 at 03:31 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by locoboy
just need to know whether to Y the feed or to link from one light to the other?
If it were me, I do whichever results is shortest (less weight) of wire so probably Y?
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RazMan
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| posted on 14/2/07 at 03:31 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by locoboy
just need to know whether to Y the feed or to link from one light to the other?
In which case wire both lights back to the Y split but make sure the wire is man enough for the job - some bikes had low wattage headlights as
standard and plonking a 60/55W halogen light on the standard wiring could result in a fried loom (or car )
[Edited on 14-2-07 by RazMan]
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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macnab
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| posted on 14/2/07 at 03:54 PM |
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a lot depends also on the quality of the wire as some cables that look thick are of such low grade that it is easy to over rate them. The wiring in my
blue birds is so thin you'd expect half the wiring could run just a courtesy light, but must just be of good quality. I also have special wire
for offshore sond tools, it can handle 30amps but the wire is 0.8mm thick! and is silicon covered, to good to use in a car though.
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miegru
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| posted on 14/2/07 at 05:15 PM |
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When I did my car the guy at the carelectics cmpany who sold me the cables and stuff advised me to keep splits and connections in the loom to a
minimum. Reason being that in a loom it is very difficult to keep moisture out plus the fact that most connections in a loom reduce flexibility;
increasing the chance of breakage and sodiering cutting into other wires. Sounded reasonable to me.
So I tried to make the connections at the plug: in the lights. There it is closed of from the elements. And if there is a problem it is easier to
repair than something inside a loom.
On the how many fuses discussion; I was planning on using a separate fuse for each light like somebody else mentioned. The above mentioned guy talked
me out of it; he told me to keep it as simple as possible.
If I would do it again I would probably simpify the loom by making a separate fuse and relay box in the front. Only one powercable and a few very thin
relay cables to route. Should save some weight. Same with the back-end. I was amazed at the weight of the wiring loom!
Rgrds,
Mies.
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iank
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| posted on 14/2/07 at 05:52 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by macnab
a lot depends also on the quality of the wire as some cables that look thick are of such low grade that it is easy to over rate them. The wiring in my
blue birds is so thin you'd expect half the wiring could run just a courtesy light, but must just be of good quality. I also have special wire
for offshore sond tools, it can handle 30amps but the wire is 0.8mm thick! and is silicon covered, to good to use in a car though.
Sounds like the bluebird uses modern thinwall cable. That super thin high current cable sounds like some stuff I used years ago, was told the
covering was ptfe. Boss was too cheap to buy the proper strippers so it was like using your teeth on regular mains cable.
--
Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience.
Anonymous
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flak monkey
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| posted on 14/2/07 at 06:10 PM |
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My loom is wired with the dipped and main beams on a seperate fuse. There is a single main feed for each from the switch to the fuse box. Then two
wires run from the fuse box to each light individually. The headlights are the biggest *constant* draw on the cars electrical system in a locost (10A
for the pair), next being an electric fan. Use decent wire (16A rated) and you cant go far wrong.
David
Sera
http://www.motosera.com
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