roadrunner
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| posted on 27/1/08 at 09:32 PM |
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Help with wiring dilema please.
One of my winter jobs was to sort the wiring in the Indy, having had a pinto then changing to a zx9 ment that there was two looms floating about the
engine bay, so the plan was to strip out any spare wires and trim back what was left, as the bike loom was thrown in for speed to get the car on the
road. Down to my problem, i got it all finished and taped up not making any errors by trimming the wrong wire but i have lost my spark, the engine
turns on the starter but wont fire, another thing, my head lights dont work either ,i think they stoped working before i started on the wires, side
lights work and full beam work but no dipped beam, just wondered if this could be linked to the non starter, i can hear the relay switching when
trying the lights but they wont come on, i have cheked all my earths and connections, all seem to be fine, i have a multi meter to test the circuit
but dont have the knowledge to find the fault, does anyone have any ideas to help me. Thanks Brad.
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Mr Whippy
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| posted on 27/1/08 at 09:48 PM |
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fuses? have you actually taken them out and tested them as spade fuses can be quite sneaky. I'd also try another relay and test to see if
it's getting current, then trace it back if not. Just check each component is getting power like the coil etc.
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mistergrumpy
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| posted on 27/1/08 at 09:51 PM |
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I had a no spark not long ago. It turned out to be either a bad earth or a bad connection to the battery if I remember. Also try the negative switch
connection which is round about the sprocket area. Try disconnecting this and shorting it to the batteries earth. If this works then you have the same
thing as me in that I need to connect the engine to the battery negative with a big jump lead, loose wigglies somewhere. Hope all that makes sense.
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MkIndy7
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| posted on 27/1/08 at 09:53 PM |
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Hmm from the off that sounds a bit trickey and i'm guessing you haven't got much confidence with electrics.
You'll have to start somewhere (presuming you've checked the fuses first), and the first thing would be to get a capable multimeter with a
12V testing function and a continuity tester with a buzzer.
Just as a quick test i'd check for continuity from either of the headlights to earth, just incase its simply and earth lead thats come loose or
off (if it has been working then it shouldn't be anything too amiss).
I'd then check for 12v accross both headlight wires with the headlights switched on, if its prescent and the bulb won't light (presuming
its not blown) then its a bad connection somewhere as 12v is prescent when testing but it cannot supply enough amps to light the bulb.
If its not prescent then its a matter of following it back to the relay, if 12v is coming out of the relay then the wire must be broken, (test it for
continuity if its suspected broken). If 12v isisn't coming out of the relay either the relays blown, or the relays not being fed etc.
And just follow it back like that,
I'd suspect that its something to do with the Ignition live tho, as the Ignition probably has to be on for the headlights to work and also for
the engine and coil\coil pack\ECU\whatever to work.. wearas the engine cranking isin't nescaerily on the same circuit.
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rayward
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| posted on 27/1/08 at 10:04 PM |
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if your stuck i could pop over and have a look with you if you want?.
Ray
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mistergrumpy
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| posted on 27/1/08 at 10:18 PM |
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Hee hee you'll have to do better than your avatar. I can just imagine you looking in through a hole in the garage door. "Its that wire
there, no the other one no, no.."
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roadrunner
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| posted on 27/1/08 at 10:31 PM |
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Thanks for that fellas, i will keep you in mind Ray, thanks. Right, i have tried a spare relay , ecu and rectifier, all made no change, i only seem to
get a 11v reading from the battery, could this be a problem, the engine cranks over fine, i have checked voltage in various places , but still only
giving a 11v reading, oh and the lights used to work without the ignition switched on.
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MkIndy7
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| posted on 27/1/08 at 10:58 PM |
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Have you tired starting it with jump leads on?
Only having 11V at the battery sounds a bit iffy.
Maybe when your cranking the engine over the starter is taking all the power and there's not enough left for the ignition circuit.
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Mr Whippy
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| posted on 28/1/08 at 12:47 AM |
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11 volts, it's flat
ok so have you checked that there's power going to light relay? and if so is there power going out to the lights?
check each componant one at a time that it has power and an earth.
Have you checked that your getting a spark, fit a spare spark plug, rest it on the engine and turn over. If none check the coil is live.
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RazMan
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| posted on 28/1/08 at 08:12 AM |
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11 volts sounds like a flat battery but even so that doesn't explain your lights problem. If the relay is clicking then it has to be a fuse on
the relay side of the lighting circuit. Check to see if you have voltage at the relay and work towards the lights from there.
[Edited on 28-1-08 by RazMan]
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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coozer
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| posted on 28/1/08 at 10:26 AM |
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Check this thread for my wiring diagram. I too had no spark to start with and it worked for me after i sorted the wiring out.
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=64486
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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BenB
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| posted on 28/1/08 at 11:13 AM |
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If all else fails get someone to look at it!! The trouble with trying to fault find with a project you're so intimately involved with is you
tend to see what you think you've done rather than what you've actually done!! A fresh pair of eyes will often spot the clanger quite
quickly....
then again it might just be a dodgey connection 
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roadrunner
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| posted on 28/1/08 at 07:28 PM |
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Right, i dont think it is the battery, i've had trouble with my V5 golf battery going flat and the Indy battery jumps that off fine, i have just
checked my lights, there is power going to the relay, can here it clicking and there is power going to the head lamp on both side and main beam and
full beam, but what i noticed is that i seem to have two earths, there is four wires, side, dipped, full and earth, but there is definately two earth
wires, i think i will be stripping more tape off tonight to check it out.
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mistergrumpy
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| posted on 28/1/08 at 09:00 PM |
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Not sure if I'm getting confused here but yes on my ZX9 loom I have two earths as well, both need to go to battery earth and need to be on
firmly or relay chatters or just get no spark.
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roadrunner
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| posted on 28/1/08 at 09:48 PM |
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The lights are on the car loom not the bike loom, when i say i have two earths it is two out of the four wires going into the head lamp unit seem to
run to earth when there should be one earth wire, if i have the side lights switched on then i disconnect the earth wire the light stays on, if i then
disconnect another wire the light goes out, then i reconnect the earth wire the light comes back on.
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Schrodinger
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| posted on 30/1/08 at 01:25 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by roadrunner
The lights are on the car loom not the bike loom, when i say i have two earths it is two out of the four wires going into the head lamp unit seem to
run to earth when there should be one earth wire, if i have the side lights switched on then i disconnect the earth wire the light stays on, if i then
disconnect another wire the light goes out, then i reconnect the earth wire the light comes back on.
That suggests that you have a wire for your dip/main beam that has shorted to earth somewhere, that needs to be rectified asap as there is either a
live wire "hanging around" or could be blowing fuses. Another possibility is that you have a bulb prosably brake/stop that has blown and
the filament is shorting to earth completeing your circuit for you.
Keith
Aviemore
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jacko
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| posted on 30/1/08 at 05:55 PM |
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If it ain't broke dont mend it 
Which wire did you cut the red or blue
sorry Brad hope you get it sorted
Graham
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roadrunner
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| posted on 1/2/08 at 07:55 PM |
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Headlights sorted now, just a dodgey connection in the headlamp unit, just the non starter to fix now.
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