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Securing an automatic garage door
ChrisW - 19/9/11 at 11:31 AM

Wondering if anyone has any bright ideas or has solved this problem before and can offer any suggestions...

Current situation is that my garage doors have an overhead motor on them which pulls the doors open and closed on command from a remote.

However, the door isn't exactly the most secure when closed as it's only held by the torque of the motor. It'd be fine if there was just a car in there, but as I've got loads of tools and parts stored too I get a bit worried that someone could probably force it open.

Up to now I've solved the problem by fixing a bolt on each side of the door so once the door closes the bolt latches into the frame. This solves the security problem but of course I then can't open the door using the remote as I have to go around first and undo the bolts, so might as well just push the door open manually, so it defeats the object of having the door automated.

So what I really need is some kind of solenoid or motor operated bolt to secure the door. The motor itself has an output I can use to control it so that's not a problem, it's just finding a way of connecting a motor of some kind to the lock. I've thought of using those universal car central locking solenoids but I'm not sure if they're strong enough. Is there anything similar but more powerful?

Has anyone solved this problem before and is prepared to share their solution?

Cheers, Chris

Ivan - 19/9/11 at 11:40 AM

I know this won't help - but I hoot and my wife comes down stairs to open the door.

jossey - 19/9/11 at 11:40 AM

get one of those electronic rising barriers to come up infront of the garage door.

i saw a guy who had one which rises about 2 inch infront of the garage so the door wouldnt open.

Dunno how cheap they are.......

rayward - 19/9/11 at 12:05 PM

i've got a couple of maglocks on mine, paid about £30 each i think

they're used on MOD sites for security doors, so are pretty good


hth

Ray

Daddylonglegs - 19/9/11 at 12:36 PM

Some form of solenoid that shoots a bolt into a recess would be good I guess. Better too if it has to be energised to withdraw it so it is not using power whilst closed?

Bluemoon - 19/9/11 at 12:56 PM

Same issue, watching with interest..

May be a pair of these?

http://www.onlinesecurityproducts.co.uk/solenoid-b olt/solenoid-bolt-entry-level-fail-safe.html

[Edited on 19/9/11 by Bluemoon]

stevebubs - 19/9/11 at 04:57 PM

Do you have the original locking points available on the doors that would normally be attached to the handle?

ChrisW - 19/9/11 at 09:50 PM

quote:
Originally posted by Bluemoon
May be a pair of these?

http://www.onlinesecurityproducts.co.uk/solenoid-b olt/solenoid-bolt-entry-level-fail-safe.html


Problem with those is that the bolt action isn't very long, and the accuracy of my garage door isn't that great. Kind of limits the mounting positions to avoid bring able to bend the door to get around it.

quote:
Originally posted by stevebubs
Do you have the original locking points available on the doors that would normally be attached to the handle?


The mounting points for the locks are there but they've not been installed. I dare say I could acquire some and fit them if necessary.

Chris

NigeEss - 19/9/11 at 11:41 PM

The aftermarket central locking solenoids tend to have around a 40mm throw. Surely even a badly
fitting door ain't that far out

Two heavy plates, one on frame/floor and other on door with the solenoid pushing a 10mm bar through
shouldn't require any more force than operating a car door mechanism.

ChrisW - 20/9/11 at 10:57 AM

Yeah, that's pretty much where I am too. Although I'd probaby buy a bolt off the shelf and modify it rather than trying to make the whole thing from scratch.

The one thing that makes this difficult though is that the solenoids would have to be mounted on the door itself, which means getting a control cable to the door that is able to move as the door opens. I'm sure it's not the end of the world, just another complication to deal with!

Chris

kj - 21/9/11 at 07:23 AM

Best thing i would say is a couple of ground bolts and make sure the guides on the shutter and secure

l0rd - 22/9/11 at 08:22 AM

i recently saw a system

A magnetic pin that holded the door locked and you could only get in and out with a remote control


What about 2 of these one at each side.

Prob, you might need a second remote if you can't make them work all together

BTW the pin was about 2cm thick

[Edited on 22/9/11 by l0rd]

nick205 - 22/9/11 at 08:51 AM

quote:
Originally posted by Ivan
I know this won't help - but I hoot and my wife comes down stairs to open the door.




That seems the best all round solution to me, provided she's quick off the mark - you don't want to be sat there waiting do you.

MikeCapon - 22/9/11 at 10:59 AM

quote:
Originally posted by nick205
quote:
Originally posted by Ivan
I know this won't help - but I hoot and my wife comes down stairs to open the door.




That seems the best all round solution to me, provided she's quick off the mark - you don't want to be sat there waiting do you.



My thinking exactly Nick. I did trial this exact system on my garden gates and found that for some odd reason the response time tended to vary. During daylight hours it was OK if you weren't in a hurry, but at night, and particularly in the early hours of the morning there seemed to be an unacceptable delay. It equally seemed to have some bizarre effect on the kitchen equipment too, as I didn't get any breakfast the next morning......

splitrivet - 22/9/11 at 11:24 AM

What sort of door is it Chris, mine an electric roller goes with a clunk at the end of its travel and theres no way you can open it, sounds like it hasnt been fitted/set up properly.
Cheers,
Bob