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Passat B6 front discs & pad change - anything to watch out for
nick205 - 25/3/12 at 07:42 PM

Replacing the front discs and pads tomorrow on my Passat B6. Have done this several times on several different cars without an issue, but typically on older cars. Anything to be wary of on this vehicle (I seem to recall comments on Mondeos about not forcing the pistons back as it can flip the seals in the master cylinder???)???

Cheers
Nick

austin man - 25/3/12 at 08:30 PM

did mine on the goplg a MK4 no problems pushed them back in. Biggest problem was the disc retaining screw pig of a job to free off end up drilling it out

daniel mason - 25/3/12 at 08:32 PM

if the pads are badly worn and have been for a while,you may not have a choice with the piston. i changed my frond discs and pads last weekend and the piston was a bit reluctant to go back. biggest problem was pushing fluid back into the resevoir and over filling

nick205 - 25/3/12 at 08:35 PM

quote:
Originally posted by daniel mason
if the pads are badly worn and have been for a while,you may not have a choice with the piston. i changed my frond discs and pads last weekend and the piston was a bit reluctant to go back. biggest problem was pushing fluid back into the resevoir and over filling


This could be an issue, the wear indicator lamp came on a few days ago and the discs are definitely end of life!

nick205 - 25/3/12 at 08:38 PM

quote:
Originally posted by austin man
did mine on the goplg a MK4 no problems pushed them back in. Biggest problem was the disc retaining screw pig of a job to free off end up drilling it out



They're always a PITA - I've left them off in the past when putting it all back together. I never fitted them on the Indy when I built that either.

Hector.Brocklebank - 25/3/12 at 08:56 PM

Before doing anything, clamp the hose as close to the caliper as possible with a suitable clamp that wont cut into the hose.

Clean up the bleed nipple with a wire brush & spray with some penetration fluid (WD40 etc) then crack the bleed nipple loose with a correct fitting socket, then close again.

Remove the caliper enough to release the pads, then with a suitable spanner and bleed pipe (pipe into a container to catch old fluid), crack open the nipple again & push the caliper piston back enough to install the pads, and close the bleed nipple.

re-install everything, check fluid level and a few prods of the pedal afterwards will settle everything down and them very little (if any) bleeding will make the job "a good un"

That way its actually faster and safer than wondering if you turned the seals in the master cylinder, and clamping as close to the caliper ensures as little bleeding as possible is required.

cheers.

(edit)

Not sure if the Passat B6 platform requires a Vag-com style bit of kit to reset the brake controller ECU after a pad change or not.

[Edited on 25/3/2012 by Hector.Brocklebank]

daniel mason - 25/3/12 at 08:56 PM

you may need another pad wear sensor also if pads are really bad.sometimes they can get damaged.i replaced mine also

Hector.Brocklebank - 25/3/12 at 09:02 PM

quote:
Originally posted by daniel mason
you may need another pad wear sensor also if pads are really bad.sometimes they can get damaged.i replaced mine also


Most pads in this day and age come with a wear sensor in the kit, be it Aftermarket or O.E.

daviep - 25/3/12 at 09:23 PM

Hectors way is the book method but personally I wouldn't fanny around clamping hoses and trying to get the bleed nipples slack. I think the chances of breaking the nipple in to the caliper are much higher than causing any problems pushing the pistons back. On the other hand if the nipples look nice and clean it might be a piece of cake.

If it was me I would have a quick peek under the dust boot and check the pistons are in good shape and then push them back nice and gently.

Job done

Cheers
Davie

nick205 - 25/3/12 at 10:16 PM

quote:
Originally posted by Hector.Brocklebank
quote:
Originally posted by daniel mason
you may need another pad wear sensor also if pads are really bad.sometimes they can get damaged.i replaced mine also


Most pads in this day and age come with a wear sensor in the kit, be it Aftermarket or O.E.




Pattern TRW pad set includes a new wear sensor.

nick205 - 25/3/12 at 10:19 PM

quote:
Originally posted by daviep
Hectors way is the book method but personally I wouldn't fanny around clamping hoses and trying to get the bleed nipples slack. I think the chances of breaking the nipple in to the caliper are much higher than causing any problems pushing the pistons back. On the other hand if the nipples look nice and clean it might be a piece of cake.

If it was me I would have a quick peek under the dust boot and check the pistons are in good shape and then push them back nice and gently.

Job done

Cheers
Davie



This will be my method after double checking the reservoir level - not topped it up in 10k miles and the low fluid lights not on.

zilspeed - 26/3/12 at 09:25 AM

At least you're not doing the rears.

With the electronic parking brake, you need to plug the car in to park the calipers before you can do anything.

Not sure if VAG COM will do this, must find out as I too have a B6.

5000 posts ?
WTF - must get out more.

[Edited on 26/3/12 by zilspeed]

nick205 - 26/3/12 at 09:40 AM

quote:
Originally posted by zilspeed
At least you're not doing the rears.

With the electronic parking brake, you need to plug the car in to park the calipers before you can do anything.

Not sure if VAG COM will do this, must find out as I too have a B6.

5000 posts ?
WTF - must get out more.

[Edited on 26/3/12 by zilspeed]



hmmm! Just read about this on the rears. Mine are OK for a while, but it would be a PITA and £££ to have to take it to a garage for a brake pad change


Just off outside to tackle the fronts now

zilspeed - 26/3/12 at 09:45 AM

Just checked.

Vag Com Instructions

Happy days.

nick205 - 26/3/12 at 07:22 PM

Job done - took under 2 hrs, dead simple (very nice working on relatively clean and uncorroded nuts and bolts that just undo), no issues - happy chap.

Most fiddly part was undoing the pad sensor wiring - brilliantly reliable sealed plug, but my god what a PITA to gt apart!

£120 for discs and pads vs. £225 quoted from VW main dealer