Printable Version | Subscribe | Add to Favourites
New Topic New Poll New Reply
Author: Subject: How to repair spot welds on galvanised chassis?
maartenromijn

posted on 19/2/10 at 12:17 PM Reply With Quote
How to repair spot welds on galvanised chassis?

I have bought a damaged Volvo V40. For the repairs, I had to cut out some spot welds. The chassis is fully galvanised.

I have tried to plug weld the removed spot welds, but without success. I expect the zinc to be the problem. Due to limited access I have cleaned the area with a screw driver. Anyone some tips & tricks??

[Edited on 19/2/10 by maartenromijn]





BLOG: http://thunderroad-super7.blogspot.com/

View User's Profile E-Mail User View All Posts By User U2U Member
mad4x4

posted on 19/2/10 at 12:18 PM Reply With Quote
What about brazing with a gas and brazing rods.





Scot's do it better in Kilts.

MK INDY's Don't Self Centre Regardless of MK Setting !

View User's Profile Visit User's Homepage View All Posts By User U2U Member
scootz

posted on 19/2/10 at 12:30 PM Reply With Quote
Lol... I read the title all wrong - thought it was "how to SPOT REPAIR welds on galvanised chassis"!





It's Evolution Baby!

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
jambojeef

posted on 19/2/10 at 12:41 PM Reply With Quote
Get one of them flap wheel sanding discs and clean the area of all the zinc coating before trying to weld.

Also clean a patch for your earth electrode too.

Try not to breathe in the zinc dust when sanding and if any white zinc oxide residue appears when welding you need to sand it more / a wider area around the intended weld.

Geoff

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
r1_pete

posted on 19/2/10 at 01:12 PM Reply With Quote
You need to clean the zinc off to weld or braze, and don't breeth the fumes.....






View User's Profile E-Mail User Visit User's Homepage View All Posts By User U2U Member
maartenromijn

posted on 19/2/10 at 01:30 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by r1_pete
You need to clean the zinc off to weld or braze, and don't breeth the fumes.....


I have limited access with angle grinder, so I have tried scraping it off (no success).

Also, I do not want to remove all the paint/zinc in the engine bay.

Can I removoe the zinc ony in the area to be welded, or should I clean say 50mm around?





BLOG: http://thunderroad-super7.blogspot.com/

View User's Profile E-Mail User View All Posts By User U2U Member
Grimsdale

posted on 19/2/10 at 04:29 PM Reply With Quote
get some hydrochloric acid in there, that should do the trick!
View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
bodger

posted on 19/2/10 at 04:59 PM Reply With Quote
Local steel fabricators told me to be really careful with ventilation when welding galvanised metal. The fumes are very nasty/carcinogenic.
View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
iank

posted on 19/2/10 at 05:10 PM Reply With Quote
If there isn't room for mr angry then a powerfile would be the best option.
You need to clear far enough that the galv doesn't vaporise in the heat of the weld.

Don't know if the fumes are carcinogenic or not, but they will certainly give you flu symptoms if you breath any.

Spray with weld through primer before welding and it should help prevent the tin worm in the future.





--
Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience.
Anonymous

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
bartonp

posted on 19/2/10 at 07:01 PM Reply With Quote
Weld thru primer == zinc rich paint....
You can arc/mag (MAG - argon CO2 mix, slightly higher wire feed/current that's all) weld zinc coated steel, but must take serious precautions with ventilation.

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
Angel Acevedo

posted on 19/2/10 at 07:10 PM Reply With Quote
Oxy Acetylene torch

Can you reach with Oxy Acetylene welding torch?
Play around your weld area just make sure you don´t breath the fumes.
No permanent damage AFAIK but real nasty headaches.
My 2 pence...





Beware of what you wish.. for it may come true....

View User's Profile E-Mail User Visit User's Homepage View All Posts By User U2U Member
Peteff

posted on 19/2/10 at 07:34 PM Reply With Quote
You will not get metal fume fever from spot welding a few holes in a chassis in well ventilated conditions. It should weld with no problems and earth through it if it is still fairly clean but grinding it off is preferable.





yours, Pete

I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
austin man

posted on 19/2/10 at 08:50 PM Reply With Quote
use a dremmel or simmilar with a small grinding wheel





Life is like a bowl of fruit, funny how all the weird looking ones are left alone

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
maartenromijn

posted on 19/2/10 at 10:04 PM Reply With Quote
Well, I have used the angry grinder where possible, fake Dremel (rubbish) and sanding paper. Put up the current and wire speed a bit. Welds look very crappy, but seem to be holding.

I have no quick access to brazing and gas/oxy equipment.

Wleding fum es: its mell sa bit funyy, but I haev n ohean ac he hr

[Edited on 19/2/10 by maartenromijn]





BLOG: http://thunderroad-super7.blogspot.com/

View User's Profile E-Mail User View All Posts By User U2U Member
Grimsdale

posted on 21/2/10 at 09:42 AM Reply With Quote
no, seriously, 25% hydrochloric acid! It'll fizz through the zinc and leave te steel alone. Just wash it off afterwards.
View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member

New Topic New Poll New Reply


go to top






Website design and SEO by Studio Montage

All content © 2001-16 LocostBuilders. Reproduction prohibited
Opinions expressed in public posts are those of the author and do not necessarily represent
the views of other users or any member of the LocostBuilders team.
Running XMB 1.8 Partagium [© 2002 XMB Group] on Apache under CentOS Linux
Founded, built and operated by ChrisW.