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Author: Subject: Installing ICE - may need some help?
Jasper

posted on 9/3/10 at 02:49 PM Reply With Quote
Installing ICE - may need some help?

So I've messed about putting headunits, speakers etc into cars before with no problems, but I've never done a complete install with amp/speakers/sub.

Just had delivered some very nice JL gear for the Mini, and just wanted to check if there is anything in particular I should watch out for, or is it all very self explanatory and just plug and play?

Spec is 4 channel amp, 10 inch sub, 6x9 speakers, full wiring kit and RCA cable. Got a lovely hand built sub box designed for the Mini on it's way with matching new pre-cut parcel shelf.





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lewis

posted on 9/3/10 at 02:55 PM Reply With Quote
pretty self explanatory tbo just remember to run the rca leads on the opposite side to the power and remote cables to minimise interference and read in the amp manual about bridgin for the sub.
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cd.thomson

posted on 9/3/10 at 02:56 PM Reply With Quote
its far simpler than wiring up a kit car!

cant remember experiencing any major difficulties, just run the audio lines on the other side of the car to the power cabling to prevent interference. It took my 20 mins or so to work out how to bridge my sub but that was the only sticking point!

also make sure you secure everything properly. The last time I saw my sub it was sailing through the air about 30ft in the air into a neighbouring field, I'm sure glad it went out the boot rather than coming to see me in the front

ETA: LOL too slow for once!

[Edited on 9/3/10 by cd.thomson]





Craig

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ashg

posted on 9/3/10 at 03:06 PM Reply With Quote
i got excited there for a minute. i though you were fitting a bigger engine


make sure you setup the crossovers to the correct frequencies. and also dont be silly with the gain control on the amp.

start with the gain on the amp at minimum and the head unit at about 75% volume. gradually turn the gain up to the point were it is just about to distort then turn it back a quarter of a turn.

if you have an oscilloscope you can do this much more scientifically as when the amp reaches its max power output it will start to clip the signal. basically meaning the nice zigzag wave on the scope will go square shaped. square shaped waves are very bad for speakers and it is usually 99% of the time the thing that blows them up.

there is so much you can learn about car audio set-up its unreal. I used to compete in the IASCA/EMMA European sound quality competitions.

the best place to learn the basics is

www.talkaudio.co.uk they have a really good forum and some brilliant FAQ/Guides on there.

this is the link to the guides area.
click me





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Jasper

posted on 9/3/10 at 03:12 PM Reply With Quote
Cheers chaps - I think you can get an oscilloscope app for the iPhone, might give that a go.

And BTW - a fully rebuilt Stage 3 engine is already going in!

The Mini has the battery in the boot, so presumably I don't have to worry about that then ..... Rescued attachment IMG_0014.JPG
Rescued attachment IMG_0014.JPG






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sebastiaan

posted on 9/3/10 at 03:19 PM Reply With Quote
Most important thing to watch out for is to secure everything properly. People (or chavs... ;-)) have been decapitated in crashes by flying parcel shelves, so beware!
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tomprescott

posted on 9/3/10 at 03:33 PM Reply With Quote
Physical and electrical connections need to be suitable! I.e. everything secured in place, a good earth point for all the equipment and an appropriate size fuse. You may want to consider installing a capacitor too.
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MikeR

posted on 9/3/10 at 03:41 PM Reply With Quote
make sure the alternator / battery can cope - remember years ago a lad i worked with was into 'ice'.

He used to claim he had to rev the engine to 1500 - 2000 revs otherwise the car stalled when he turned it up.

What i do know is a belly full of cider and sitting on the back seat was guaranteed to make you feel sick with the vibrations going through your body.

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Jasper

posted on 9/3/10 at 04:27 PM Reply With Quote
It's not super powerful, just loud enough for my old ears, I'm sure the battery/alternator will manage it ok

It's come with good quality wiring kit, nice big fuse, etc, etc .... it's just the crossovers/gain/frequencies I'm not too sure about, I'll have a read up!





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02GF74

posted on 9/3/10 at 05:21 PM Reply With Quote
once you have wired it up, the best way to test it is at full volume so all the body panels and windows vibrate at around eleven thrity at night.






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ashg

posted on 9/3/10 at 07:18 PM Reply With Quote
as a starting point somewhere between 80-125 and below for the sub

about 80-100ish and above for the other speakers. do you have crossover boxes for the mid woofer and tweeter in the speaker wires?

if you have the option set both crossovers on a 12db slope as it makes it easier to hear what's going on at what frequencies first.





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Charlie_Zetec

posted on 9/3/10 at 07:24 PM Reply With Quote
I used to be into and sell ICE years gone by, but have slowly let it go.

One of the classic things that people used to do was put 6x9's on a parcel shelf with a sub in the boot - know what the problem is? Both are designed for lower level sound, ie. bass. I always preferred a set or two of compoents plus a small sub.

Plus the fact that the sub resonance usually interferes with the movement of cones in close proximity, such as hatchbacks with 6x9's in the shelf and a sub in an enclosed space trying to send soundwaves out through where the other speakers were sat.

If you've already bought it then go with it, but it's not the route I would've chosen. As everyone else has said, ensure a good earthing point, appropriate size fuse for the power cable, correct gain settings for the amp, and bridging for the sub channels. Remember also that if it's new kit it'll require running in at low volumes for a while, so don't go cranking it up full blast straight away.

And without wanting to sound a bit gay, best music to set up a system to was usually Mariah Carey....





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Jasper

posted on 10/3/10 at 11:20 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Charlie_Zetec


One of the classic things that people used to do was put 6x9's on a parcel shelf with a sub in the boot - know what the problem is? Both are designed for lower level sound, ie. bass. I always preferred a set or two of compoents plus a small sub.

Plus the fact that the sub resonance usually interferes with the movement of cones in close proximity, such as hatchbacks with 6x9's in the shelf and a sub in an enclosed space trying to send soundwaves out through where the other speakers were sat.


And without wanting to sound a bit gay, best music to set up a system to was usually Mariah Carey....


Yeah - I'm aware it's not ideal to have a sub and 6x9s right next to each other, but in the Mini there isn't much choice, there's no room for speakers in the front at all, so the only other option is under the back seats but then the sound is going into the back on my seat. Compromise I suppose.

Thanks for all the info chaps, much appreciated.

[Edited on 10/3/10 by Jasper]





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