corrado vr6
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| posted on 4/2/12 at 08:07 PM |
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Service what's actually done?
Hi there my sisters car is in need of a service and in an attempt to help her save money I might do the service for her but it all depends what is
normally done, I've always had my car serviced at a garage and never really thought much about what is actually done. So what is actually needed
to be done if it makes any difference it's a 51 plate vauxhall corsa on 86k obviously I know all fluids are done but that's about it any
info much appreciated Greg
http://r1indy7.wordpress.com/
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mookaloid
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| posted on 4/2/12 at 08:21 PM |
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it should be listed in the service book but for a car of that age I would do the following:
oil and filter
then just check everything else and replace as required:
plugs
air filter
fuel filter
lube locks and hinges
check brake pad wear
check tyre wear/pressures
check fluid levels/anti freeze concentration/
have a good poke about underneath looking for split boots etc
test drive
can't think of much else
"That thing you're thinking - it wont be that."
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MakeEverything
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| posted on 4/2/12 at 08:24 PM |
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Dont know what the dealer would do, but i would;
Change Oil & Filter
Change Plugs
Change Leads
Check Valve clearances
Change Fuel Filter
Change A/C Filter
Change Air Filter
Check tyres & Brakes
Check fluid levels (Coolant, P/Steering etc)
Maybe even change the coolant.
as a minimum.
[Edited on 4-2-12 by MakeEverything]
Kindest Regards,
Richard.
...You can make it foolProof, but youll never make it Idiot Proof!...
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daniel mason
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| posted on 4/2/12 at 08:26 PM |
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you can buy service kits on ebay consisting of;
oil filter
fuel filter
air filter,
plugs.
then you need to buy oil. job done!
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AndyW
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| posted on 4/2/12 at 08:37 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by MakeEverything
Dont know what the dealer would do, but i would;
Change Oil & Filter
Change Plugs
change leads
Check Valve clearances
Change Fuel Filter
Change A/C Filter
Change Air Filter
Check tyres & Brakes
Check fluid levels (Coolant, P/Steering etc)
Maybe even change the coolant.
as a minimum.
[Edited on 4-2-12 by MakeEverything]
Oh how I remember my early days, going to the stores for plugs and leads, then telling the store man its a diesel
One thing I often got was a "long weight"
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MakeEverything
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| posted on 4/2/12 at 08:39 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by AndyW
quote:
Originally posted by MakeEverything
Dont know what the dealer would do, but i would;
Change Oil & Filter
Change Plugs
change leads
Check Valve clearances
Change Fuel Filter
Change A/C Filter
Change Air Filter
Check tyres & Brakes
Check fluid levels (Coolant, P/Steering etc)
Maybe even change the coolant.
as a minimum.
[Edited on 4-2-12 by MakeEverything]
Oh how I remember my early days, going to the stores for plugs and leads, then telling the store man its a diesel
One thing I often got was a "long weight"
Ive made the assumption its a Petrol!
Kindest Regards,
Richard.
...You can make it foolProof, but youll never make it Idiot Proof!...
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corrado vr6
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| posted on 4/2/12 at 08:41 PM |
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Cool nice one sounds easy enough and thanks for the heads up on the service kits on eBay probably the easiest route, one other thing I should have
mentioned the dealer that my sister had change a tyre for her said the service light was on but she has said there's no light on if say it was
on would this go off after a service as in the oil could be low once replaced to the right level would it go off? Or does need resetting by a
garge/dealer, to be fair I'm doubtful the light is/was even on!
http://r1indy7.wordpress.com/
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big-vee-twin
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| posted on 4/2/12 at 08:46 PM |
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Service lights are usually reset by pressing a combination of buttons on the Dash, should be identified in the manual how to do it.
Duratec Engine is fitted, MS2 Extra V3 is assembled and tested, engine running, car now built. IVA passed 26/02/2016
http://www.triangleltd.com
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britishtrident
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| posted on 4/2/12 at 08:50 PM |
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Depends which service and the car ie see the vehicle handbook or manufacturers web site.
On modern (ie 1999 on ) tin you have two main types of service oil change services and inspection services.
The intervals depend on manufacturer and type of oil in the sump and type of spark plugs fitted.
If the car is running fully synthetic oil the oil is changed at 10,000, 12,000, 15,000 or 20,000 mile intervals. With a lot of
manufacturers this is just an oil change, coolant and screen washer top up. If the car doesn't have a bulb failure detection warning light
and the lights will be checked.
Every 30,000 or 40,000 there is an inspection service what an inspection services entails varies with mileage and age ie a 30,000 mile service
is different from a 60,000 and a 90,000 is different again.
Normally a 30,000 involves checking and adjusting brakes all fluid/oil levels, checking and oiling door locks checking condition of wiper blades
checking all electrics and wipers and washer for condition operation. Check steering ball joints and visual examination of all steering
suspension, brakes and chassis. Some cars require air filters at the mileage some don't. Antifreeze concentration is checked.
A 60,000 has all of the above but also stuff like pollen filter, check condition of drive belts. On a lot of cars a spark plug change however some
manufacturers say long life (platinum or iridium or multipoint) spark plugs last the life of the engine.
At this mileage Brake fluid and coolant changes are optional --- modern OAT coolant generally requires changed at 5 years although Ford now claim
it last the life of the engine.
Cam belt change interval can be anywhere from 48,000 to 120,000 miles depending on car and engine model
A 90,000 is different again ie 30,000 with stuff like service the AC system
A 120,000 is like a 60,000 plus extra items.
[Edited on 4/2/12 by britishtrident]
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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Peteff
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| posted on 4/2/12 at 08:59 PM |
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Just change the oil and filter and possibly the plugs, tappets are hydraulic. Look at the brakes and check the wheel bearings for play and slap some
grease round the handbrake cables. Leave it alone till something goes wrong 
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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ReMan
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| posted on 4/2/12 at 09:05 PM |
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If it's been regularly " serviced"
I'd do oil and filter this time
You just need to decide if your happy to let the servicing stamping book farce lapse. Unless you have a friend with a stamp.
[Edited on 4/2/12 by ReMan]
www.plusnine.co.uk
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paulf
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| posted on 4/2/12 at 09:10 PM |
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Thats basically what I do, I do an oil and filter change and look over at MOT time and repair anything needed for the MOT .
I do keep a check on the fluids and tyres and listen for any unusual noises the rest of the time and usually have no problems at MOT.
I know of other people with older cars that spend hundreds of pounds a year by having them serviced and parts changed by garages most likely for no
good reason.
Paul
quote:
Originally posted by Peteff
Just change the oil and filter and possibly the plugs, tappets are hydraulic. Look at the brakes and check the wheel bearings for play and slap some
grease round the handbrake cables. Leave it alone till something goes wrong
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britishtrident
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| posted on 4/2/12 at 09:32 PM |
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The proper Vauxhall schedule (for a later model Corsa) can be found here from page 177 onwards.
http://www.vauxhall.co.uk/content/dam/Vauxhall/Europe/united_kingdom/nscwebsite/uk/00_Home/Owner_Services/owners_manuals/corsa/CorsaOwnersManual_Jan09
.pdf
It is based on a 20,000 and 40,000 mile interval system Only use 5w/30 fully synthetic oil for these cars --- the proper GM oil and antifreezw
is easy to find a t a cheap price.
Establish what was the last service carried out was and what was changed before blindly spending money on relatively expensive parts such as long
life plugs that are not required.
Both spark plug and air filter change interval appears to be 40,000 mile as is brake inspection so they may not be required.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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Ninehigh
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| posted on 4/2/12 at 09:55 PM |
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Istr a timing belt replacement somewhere around that mileage on my 98 Astra... Might be worth a check...
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zilspeed
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| posted on 4/2/12 at 10:47 PM |
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I'd be very surprised if any garage does helluva much other than oil and filters.
All the rest is smoke and mirrors and the general public pay up in their droves.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 4/2/12 at 11:23 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Ninehigh
Istr a timing belt replacement somewhere around that mileage on my 98 Astra... Might be worth a check...
istr 100,000 miles on Corsa
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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omega 24 v6
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| posted on 4/2/12 at 11:31 PM |
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2 different types of oil filter on these. Make sure you get the right one before you start.
If it looks wrong it probably is wrong.
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stevebubs
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| posted on 5/2/12 at 01:24 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by AndyW
quote:
Originally posted by MakeEverything
Dont know what the dealer would do, but i would;
Change Oil & Filter
Change Plugs
change leads
Check Valve clearances
Change Fuel Filter
Change A/C Filter
Change Air Filter
Check tyres & Brakes
Check fluid levels (Coolant, P/Steering etc)
Maybe even change the coolant.
as a minimum.
[Edited on 4-2-12 by MakeEverything]
Oh how I remember my early days, going to the stores for plugs and leads, then telling the store man its a diesel
One thing I often got was a "long weight"
How about a left handed screwdriver?
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splitrivet
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| posted on 5/2/12 at 12:20 PM |
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Other thing to bear in mind is a lot of garages dont drop the oil through the sump plug anymore but suck the oil through the dipstick hole leaving all
the sludge sitting in the bottom of the sump.
Cheers,
Bob
[Edited on 5/2/12 by splitrivet]
I used to be a Werewolf but I'm alright nowwoooooooooooooo
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cliftyhanger
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| posted on 5/2/12 at 12:49 PM |
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For the last 8 years our zafira gets an oil change and filter annually (GM oil and filter) air filter every other year, pollen every 4 years, cambelt
every 40K (that is the interval) plugs changed at 60K, and I change the brake fluid when I do pads, about every other year.
Car is now over 100K, no issues.
If you can't be bothered to do the oil change, lots of fast fit places do them for not a lot (or has that changed??)
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jacko
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| posted on 5/2/12 at 01:11 PM |
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I service my vectra and find its as cheep to go to main dealers for the oil / parts and you get genuine GM filters etc ,
Also you can ask if there is any call back things that it has to go back in for .
On mine it was hand brake leaver & new alternator last time i checked with them
Jacko
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v8kid
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| posted on 5/2/12 at 02:22 PM |
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Slightly off topic but have you considered that you will get a better job done if you DIY?
As mentioned before garages suck the oil out and leave a significant % behind. I had quite an argument when my car was under warranty that the garage
had not changed the oil 'cos it was still dirty. In fact they had but the residue had discoloured the new oil. That implies a significant
residue.
Since the car came out of warranty I do all "servicing" myself. The oil is spotless and stays that way for a couple of k on a 170k car.
All I do is oil and filters. Supposed to be every 12k but I use cheap supermarket synthetic and after-market filters changed every 5k.
One of the reasons for using very expensive oils is their ability to keep solids in suspension and maintain shear strength for long periods. Justified
by the inconvenience and cost of servicing. Taking that away by DIY changes the criteria completely and the regular removal of suspended solids has
to be beneficial to the engine.
Like others I check all other stuff every year at MOT time.
Before I get jumped on for advocating cheap oil if chosen carefully it will be every bit as good as the most expensive bearing in mind how frequent
oil changes change the selection criteria.
Cheers!
You'd be surprised how quickly the sales people at B&Q try and assist you after ignoring you for the past 15 minutes when you try and start a
chainsaw
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britishtrident
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| posted on 5/2/12 at 02:59 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by v8kid
Slightly off topic but have you considered that you will get a better job done if you DIY?
As mentioned before garages suck the oil out and leave a significant % behind. I had quite an argument when my car was under warranty that the garage
had not changed the oil 'cos it was still dirty. In fact they had but the residue had discoloured the new oil. That implies a significant
residue.
Since the car came out of warranty I do all "servicing" myself. The oil is spotless and stays that way for a couple of k on a 170k car.
All I do is oil and filters. Supposed to be every 12k but I use cheap supermarket synthetic and after-market filters changed every 5k.
One of the reasons for using very expensive oils is their ability to keep solids in suspension and maintain shear strength for long periods. Justified
by the inconvenience and cost of servicing. Taking that away by DIY changes the criteria completely and the regular removal of suspended solids has
to be beneficial to the engine.
Like others I check all other stuff every year at MOT time.
Before I get jumped on for advocating cheap oil if chosen carefully it will be every bit as good as the most expensive bearing in mind how frequent
oil changes change the selection criteria.
Cheers!
Done properly because the suction tube gets right to the bottom of the sump sucking oil out through the dipstick tube actually gets more oil
out than via the drain plug. Drain plugs are always a few mm above the bottom of sump. I have changed more than a few sumps to fix leaks
caused by corrosion and can assure you using a Pela vacuum oil extractor gets all the oil out.
If new oil gets dirty very quickly after starting the engine it is usually because of the type of oil used.
Generally a fully synthetic oil will stay clean for up to 20,000 miles or more but a semi-synthetic or enhanced mineral oil loaded with additives
will turn black very quickly after the engine is started. I won't put mineral or semi-synthetic oil in any engine I deal with
including my Lawnmower.
Fully synthetic oils just don't produce the amount of combustion and acidic crap mineral oils do if you open up and engine that has done
100,000 miles on nothing but fully synthetic oil the difference is nigh and day.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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britishtrident
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| posted on 5/2/12 at 03:28 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by jacko
I service my vectra and find its as cheep to go to main dealers for the oil / parts and you get genuine GM filters etc ,
Also you can ask if there is any call back things that it has to go back in for .
On mine it was hand brake leaver & new alternator last time i checked with them
Jacko
GM brandedd 5w/30 synthetic oils and anti-freeze are exceptionally good value for money, many motor factors sell them at or below supermarket
prices.
Toyota branded fully synthetic oils can also found very cheaply particularly on ebay.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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v8kid
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| posted on 5/2/12 at 03:50 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
Done properly because the suction tube gets right to the bottom of the sump sucking oil out through the dipstick tube actually gets more oil
out than via the drain plug. Drain plugs are always a few mm above the bottom of sump.
.
'fraid in my experience you are wrong in that claim. However no doubt others may have has similar experiences to you but not me
Cheers!
You'd be surprised how quickly the sales people at B&Q try and assist you after ignoring you for the past 15 minutes when you try and start a
chainsaw
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