nick205
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| posted on 25/3/12 at 07:42 PM |
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Passat B6 front discs & pad change - anything to watch out for
Replacing the front discs and pads tomorrow on my Passat B6. Have done this several times on several different cars without an issue, but typically
on older cars. Anything to be wary of on this vehicle (I seem to recall comments on Mondeos about not forcing the pistons back as it can flip the
seals in the master cylinder???)???
Cheers
Nick
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austin man
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| posted on 25/3/12 at 08:30 PM |
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did mine on the goplg a MK4 no problems pushed them back in. Biggest problem was the disc retaining screw pig of a job to free off end up drilling it
out
Life is like a bowl of fruit, funny how all the weird looking ones are left alone
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daniel mason
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| posted on 25/3/12 at 08:32 PM |
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if the pads are badly worn and have been for a while,you may not have a choice with the piston. i changed my frond discs and pads last weekend and the
piston was a bit reluctant to go back. biggest problem was pushing fluid back into the resevoir and over filling
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nick205
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| posted on 25/3/12 at 08:35 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by daniel mason
if the pads are badly worn and have been for a while,you may not have a choice with the piston. i changed my frond discs and pads last weekend and the
piston was a bit reluctant to go back. biggest problem was pushing fluid back into the resevoir and over filling
This could be an issue, the wear indicator lamp came on a few days ago and the discs are definitely end of life!
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nick205
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| posted on 25/3/12 at 08:38 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by austin man
did mine on the goplg a MK4 no problems pushed them back in. Biggest problem was the disc retaining screw pig of a job to free off end up drilling it
out
They're always a PITA - I've left them off in the past when putting it all back together. I never fitted them on the Indy when I built
that either.
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Hector.Brocklebank
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| posted on 25/3/12 at 08:56 PM |
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Before doing anything, clamp the hose as close to the caliper as possible with a suitable clamp that wont cut into the hose.
Clean up the bleed nipple with a wire brush & spray with some penetration fluid (WD40 etc) then crack the bleed nipple loose with a correct
fitting socket, then close again.
Remove the caliper enough to release the pads, then with a suitable spanner and bleed pipe (pipe into a container to catch old fluid), crack open the
nipple again & push the caliper piston back enough to install the pads, and close the bleed nipple.
re-install everything, check fluid level and a few prods of the pedal afterwards will settle everything down and them very little (if any) bleeding
will make the job "a good un"
That way its actually faster and safer than wondering if you turned the seals in the master cylinder, and clamping as close to the caliper ensures as
little bleeding as possible is required.
cheers.
(edit)
Not sure if the Passat B6 platform requires a Vag-com style bit of kit to reset the brake controller ECU after a pad change or not.
[Edited on 25/3/2012 by Hector.Brocklebank]
Some people can never handle the truth and always try to shoot the messenger instead of taking an honest look in the mirror (its always easier to
blame another than to face reality), but secretly they wish they could grow a pair and be the messenger !!!
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daniel mason
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| posted on 25/3/12 at 08:56 PM |
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you may need another pad wear sensor also if pads are really bad.sometimes they can get damaged.i replaced mine also
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Hector.Brocklebank
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| posted on 25/3/12 at 09:02 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by daniel mason
you may need another pad wear sensor also if pads are really bad.sometimes they can get damaged.i replaced mine also
Most pads in this day and age come with a wear sensor in the kit, be it Aftermarket or O.E.
Some people can never handle the truth and always try to shoot the messenger instead of taking an honest look in the mirror (its always easier to
blame another than to face reality), but secretly they wish they could grow a pair and be the messenger !!!
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daviep
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| posted on 25/3/12 at 09:23 PM |
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Hectors way is the book method but personally I wouldn't fanny around clamping hoses and trying to get the bleed nipples slack. I think the
chances of breaking the nipple in to the caliper are much higher than causing any problems pushing the pistons back. On the other hand if the nipples
look nice and clean it might be a piece of cake.
If it was me I would have a quick peek under the dust boot and check the pistons are in good shape and then push them back nice and gently.
Job done 
Cheers
Davie
“A truly great library contains something in it to offend everyone.”
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nick205
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| posted on 25/3/12 at 10:16 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Hector.Brocklebank
quote:
Originally posted by daniel mason
you may need another pad wear sensor also if pads are really bad.sometimes they can get damaged.i replaced mine also
Most pads in this day and age come with a wear sensor in the kit, be it Aftermarket or O.E.
Pattern TRW pad set includes a new wear sensor.
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nick205
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| posted on 25/3/12 at 10:19 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by daviep
Hectors way is the book method but personally I wouldn't fanny around clamping hoses and trying to get the bleed nipples slack. I think the
chances of breaking the nipple in to the caliper are much higher than causing any problems pushing the pistons back. On the other hand if the nipples
look nice and clean it might be a piece of cake.
If it was me I would have a quick peek under the dust boot and check the pistons are in good shape and then push them back nice and gently.
Job done
Cheers
Davie
This will be my method after double checking the reservoir level - not topped it up in 10k miles and the low fluid lights not on.
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zilspeed
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| posted on 26/3/12 at 09:25 AM |
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At least you're not doing the rears.
With the electronic parking brake, you need to plug the car in to park the calipers before you can do anything.
Not sure if VAG COM will do this, must find out as I too have a B6.
5000 posts ?
WTF - must get out more.
[Edited on 26/3/12 by zilspeed]
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nick205
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| posted on 26/3/12 at 09:40 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by zilspeed
At least you're not doing the rears.
With the electronic parking brake, you need to plug the car in to park the calipers before you can do anything.
Not sure if VAG COM will do this, must find out as I too have a B6.
5000 posts ?
WTF - must get out more.
[Edited on 26/3/12 by zilspeed]
hmmm! Just read about this on the rears. Mine are OK for a while, but it would be a PITA and £££ to have to take it to a garage for a brake pad
change 
Just off outside to tackle the fronts now
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zilspeed
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| posted on 26/3/12 at 09:45 AM |
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Just checked.
Vag Com Instructions
Happy days.
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nick205
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| posted on 26/3/12 at 07:22 PM |
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Job done - took under 2 hrs, dead simple (very nice working on relatively clean and uncorroded nuts and bolts that just undo), no issues - happy
chap.
Most fiddly part was undoing the pad sensor wiring - brilliantly reliable sealed plug, but my god what a PITA to gt apart!
£120 for discs and pads vs. £225 quoted from VW main dealer 
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