Only a couple of quick questions.
I started wiring the car today. Most of the runs are done.
Q1. I have an 18" fan for my rad and the R1 fuse is 15A. Is this enough, or will I have to use a relay?
Q2. Is there an output on the ecu where I can pick up a tach wire? Should I just use one off a coil?
I need a tach reading for my veypor dash and my gear indicator.
Cheers Martin
I'm running a 12" fan on the standard fuse and wiring. (don't know if that helps).
Adrian
7.5 or 10A for mine (high power 8" ) so 15 should be about right. Isn't 18" overkill? mine brings the temps down to the fan off point
in about 10-15seconds with a high idle!
James
[Edited on 29/1/09 by cloudy]
quote:
Originally posted by cloudy
7.5 or 10A for mine (high power 8" ) so 15 should be about right. Isn't 18" overkill? mine brings the temps down to the fan off point in about 10-15seconds with a high idle!
James
[Edited on 29/1/09 by cloudy]
ps you sure you can't aim for SVA? sounds like you are just behind me and i'm aiming for end of feb - put it this way SVA + retest, far
cheaper than IVA....
[Edited on 29/1/09 by cloudy]
I know but I have quite a bit to do and I work 84 hour weeks.
I also have a pending practical 2391 testing and inspection exam coming up so I must not forget how I make my money to build the car!
often there is an tach wire from the cpu which goes to the tachometer on the dash..
manytimes that wire is useable.
if it isn't you van always suply a coul ground side wire but its a far worse signal.
I run my vepor2 dash from the coil ..only reason, because it was simple and worked even when I switched to megajolt and twin coils.
Paul
Right, I have decided to run the tach to the coil as I don't know the pin-outs for the ecu (unless anyone has them?).
I am planning my immobiliser but I have a question regarding the transponder loop and paperwork.
It will be behind an aluminium panel so will it still pick up the tag which will be the other side?
Is there anyone who could sign off the installer paperwork for me?
there should be a tacho feed to the original clocks, do you not have a wiring diagram?
I do have the wiring diagram, but the wires just start and end in a square block without any indication of what they do.
LOL thats not a very helpful wiring diagram. What engine is it, i may be able to help
Mark
2005 R1 inj.
I do have a suspicion that it is one of the yellow with black trace cables that I removed from the connection to the dash plug when I stripped out
the bike loom. I have not cut any of these wires incase I need them. I am running a veypor dash. I still have the exup cables, although I will
probably remove those later.
ok gimmie a sec i will just have a quick look at something i have
ok, from the document i have, it says tacho on yamaha is yellow/black & here is a bit of info if you are still unsure, to help confirm :
Finding Tacho Signal
To verify a wire is connected to the tacho signal, you need to measure the frequency
(Hz) with a multimeter. Set the multimeter to frequency, put the multimeter’s black
lead on the negative battery terminal and the multimeter’s red lead on the tacho wire. With ignition on and the engine running, the frequency should
vary
with RPM. Some multimeters may have trouble reading the tacho signal.
[Edited on 31/1/09 by Meeerrrk]
Cheers for that.
There are two yellow with black trace wires but maybe they do the same thing.
Like you said, I will check them first.
Cheers Chris.
My immobiliser transponder loop is behind an ally' panel and works fine.
u2u sent.
adrian
quote:
Originally posted by adithorp
My immobiliser transponder loop is behind an ally' panel and works fine.
u2u sent.
adrian
I have soldered the "stop" wires together and I am using a start switch for the starter.
I have an FIA switch to cut the battery (except hazards) and I intend to use the secondary switch on the Fia switch to turn off the ignition and so
cut the engine.
The fia switch only has one pair of NO and NC contacts so I have a problem switching the ignition off as I can only switch off one ignition pair.
I am planning to use the immobiliser to cut three circuits. Two of them being the ignition circuits and the other the starter circuit.
If I use this method, will simply cutting the ignition supply to the immobiliser, activate it and kill the ignition?
I don't want the engine to run on!
You only need to switch the main ignition circuit on your cut-switch. The secondary circuit can be perminently connected or switched through the
immobiliser.
The immobilisers don't normally arm untill 30 or so seconds after the power switches off and require a perminent feed to operate. That might be a
problem with the way your doing yours.
You are talking about the red and brown/blue wires as the main ignition?
I was intending to break just one pair with the fia switch aux but wire both ignition pairs through the immobiliser as well.
I was worried that both pairs of wires had to be broken at the same time.
Yes, do it as you intended. Thats how mine is, altough the main switch is through a dash ignition key switch not like your fia one. Red and brown
through the switch as thats the main ignition circuit. The blue/black and blue/yellow wires can connect through the immobiliser (they power the start
logic circuit).
adrian
Excellant!