Rust in Pieces
James - 9/5/03 at 04:38 PM
Found a reason not to leave chassis on garage floor:
Got home late last night to find Dad has really usefully (
) high pressure washed the driveway.
Less useful tho was that the drain in the drive was blocked and he'd flooded the garage floor!!! 
One rather wet and rusty looking chassis was the result!
Fortunately I happened to have taken my wishbones away with me so they were ok. And because of Jasper/Ned's visit I'd put loads of stuff
like (plugged in) welder and the like away up high!
That just left all the cardboard and wood to get wet....
James
Peteff - 9/5/03 at 06:18 PM
You'll unblock the drain now
.
yours, Pete.
LoCostLancs - 10/5/03 at 06:46 PM
Mines stood up off the floor for that very reason happening lastyear.
Built some metre high Axle type stands piece of wood across the four and voila car is in the air and easier to work on.
Now you wont leave it on the garage floor will ya
Peteff - 10/5/03 at 07:21 PM
Have you got some ramps to drive it down from there
.?
yours, Pete.
dutchsuperseven - 11/5/03 at 09:54 AM
All you need is.............Hamerite!!!!!!
LoCostLancs - 12/5/03 at 08:49 AM
Its only up there while being built I aint that strong, its far from complete yet!
ChrisW - 12/5/03 at 08:59 AM
I've got mine 'up high' aswell. Just planning on getting the running gear on then inviting some mates round for a few beers with the
sneaky motive of making them help me lift my chassis down (before they get any beer of course!)
Chris
stephen_gusterson - 12/5/03 at 09:17 AM
quote:
Originally posted by dutchsuperseven
All you need is.............Hamerite!!!!!!
only if you really want to screw things up!
remember when CD's were first launched? Indestructable we were told. Scratch em, cover em in jam, put them in water, no probs, they still
play.
total bollox!
Hammerite is another 'modern myth'.
If you paint it on something rusty, when the rust detatches, so will the hammerite.
Its also not easy to get a decent looking brushed job all the time and its a bit 'gluey' to put on. Then, if you decide you need a second
coat, you have to wait 6 weeks.
According to the mfr web site, if something is too hot to touch, its too hot for hammerite.
Perhaps in years past, it was better. But its likely to be all environmentally friendly now, which in my view translates to 'compromised and not
as good'.
atb
steve
David Jenkins - 12/5/03 at 09:37 AM
I was wondering how long it would take before you said something, Steve...
David
(as it happens, I agree with you - there are loads of better products out there, often cheaper)
stephen_gusterson - 12/5/03 at 10:49 AM
Having said that, I did use the silver on my bell housing, and it didnt look too bad.
However, the black I used on my air filter box turned it from the nice professionally made two part box (not made by me) in mild steel to summat that
looks like it was painted in black araldite. Im gonna do it again some time in the future....perhaps a nice in yer face red.
atb
steve
MK9R - 12/5/03 at 11:03 AM
Personally i would rather paint all my hardwork with cow sh*t than hammeright! At least you can wipe it off when you decide what ever you have
painted with it looks cr@p!
johnston - 14/5/03 at 09:38 PM
i heard normal household emulsion is gd for the under bodys of cars but i aint tried it yet!!
stephen_gusterson - 15/5/03 at 10:35 AM
quote:
Originally posted by johnston
i heard normal household emulsion is gd for the under bodys of cars but i aint tried it yet!!
it would need to be exterior grade gloss..
atb
steve
johnston - 15/5/03 at 06:46 PM
okay which ever one it is that drys rubbery
not very good at the paintin and decoratin
paulf - 15/5/03 at 09:03 PM
I painted my axle with hammerite when i first started building the car. Last week i painted over what was left of the hammerite with black exterior
gloss, it takes a while to harden fully but is already more durable than the hammerite was.
I also think that when i first used hammerite about 25 years ago it was much better.Some industrial paint suppliers sell there own version of hammer
finish paint which may be better.
I did try some hammerite special metal primer on some ally parts at work and it seems quite good .
Paul.
quote:
Originally posted by stephen_gusterson
quote:
Originally posted by johnston
i heard normal household emulsion is gd for the under bodys of cars but i aint tried it yet!!
it would need to be exterior grade gloss..
atb
steve
theconrodkid - 15/5/03 at 09:09 PM
wickes £5 for 750ml,non drip gloss,werks a treat
stephen_gusterson - 15/5/03 at 09:25 PM
Paul,
My hero,
Someone actually backs up what I said!
You are right about hardness, for a week or two its quite 'plastiky' then goes to a less shiny hard finish.
atb
steve
quote:
Originally posted by paulf
I painted my axle with hammerite when i first started building the car. Last week i painted over what was left of the hammerite with black exterior
gloss, it takes a while to harden fully but is already more durable than the hammerite was.
I also think that when i first used hammerite about 25 years ago it was much better.Some industrial paint suppliers sell there own version of hammer
finish paint which may be better.
I did try some hammerite special metal primer on some ally parts at work and it seems quite good .
Paul.
quote:
Originally posted by stephen_gusterson
quote:
Originally posted by johnston
i heard normal household emulsion is gd for the under bodys of cars but i aint tried it yet!!
it would need to be exterior grade gloss..
atb
steve
Northy - 16/5/03 at 06:58 AM
So if I were going to paint something with gloss, what primer would I use first?
Thanks