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Author: Subject: Brake pipes
Stuart_B

posted on 8/1/08 at 05:14 PM Reply With Quote
Brake pipes

hi, i done my rear brake pipes and i was wondering would i be allowed for the sva?

Thanks

Stuart Rescued attachment parts 11157.jpg
Rescued attachment parts 11157.jpg

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Stuart_B

posted on 8/1/08 at 05:15 PM Reply With Quote
And this

Stuart Rescued attachment parts 11156.jpg
Rescued attachment parts 11156.jpg

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Stuart_B

posted on 8/1/08 at 05:16 PM Reply With Quote
And one more

Stuart Rescued attachment parts 11155.jpg
Rescued attachment parts 11155.jpg

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matt_claydon

posted on 8/1/08 at 05:32 PM Reply With Quote
Looks fine to me, as long as the flexis don't rub on the chassis or wishbones.

[Edited on 8/1/08 by matt_claydon]

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RazMan

posted on 8/1/08 at 05:33 PM Reply With Quote
Can't see anything obviously wrong there..... apart from the humungous pics

[Edited on 8-1-08 by RazMan]





Cheers,
Raz

When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box

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02GF74

posted on 8/1/08 at 05:33 PM Reply With Quote
let me guess, Santa brought you a new 10 Mega pixie camera and a utlra wide LCD screen

look ok to me although black P-clips are the fashion for 2008.

NB some SVA centres have been known to fail exposed braid on the hoses - sharp edges would you believe? - to play it safe, wrap some convoluted tubing over them with cable ties.

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matt_claydon

posted on 8/1/08 at 05:34 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by 02GF74

NB some SVA centres have been known to fail exposed braid on the hoses - sharp edges would you believe? - to play it safe, wrap some convoluted tubing over them with cable ties.


No rules for sharp edges amongst the rear suspension!

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Stuart_B

posted on 8/1/08 at 05:47 PM Reply With Quote
Sorry about the big picture, thank you for the quick replys.

Thank you

Stuart

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indykid

posted on 8/1/08 at 06:02 PM Reply With Quote
what have you done with the other end of the flexi at the upright/wheel end?

tom






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Stuart_B

posted on 8/1/08 at 06:12 PM Reply With Quote
i have done this

picture below:

Stuart Rescued attachment parts 11149.jpg
Rescued attachment parts 11149.jpg

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matt_claydon

posted on 8/1/08 at 06:43 PM Reply With Quote
The hub end needs to be supported where it meets the flexi, else eventually the copper pipe will fatigue and split.
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Avoneer

posted on 8/1/08 at 06:45 PM Reply With Quote
The union in the last pic between flexi and solid needs a solid mouting as well.

Pat...





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Avoneer

posted on 8/1/08 at 06:45 PM Reply With Quote
Damn, beaten to a reply again.

Pat...





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Stuart_B

posted on 8/1/08 at 06:50 PM Reply With Quote
so i will have to weld a bracket on to the hub, what size steel will i need to use, has any one got any pics of the bracket??

thank you

Stuart

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rusty nuts

posted on 8/1/08 at 06:57 PM Reply With Quote
I made a bracket that is held in place by one of the suspension bolts and made the metal pipe to suit.
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David Jenkins

posted on 8/1/08 at 07:17 PM Reply With Quote
They can fail braided flexy pipes if they're rubbing against other things, like brake pipes, electrics, or similar. The braiding can work like a file against other surfaces!






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John Bonnett

posted on 8/1/08 at 07:42 PM Reply With Quote
I used small Spirap for wrapping the braided flexibles from Car Builder Solutions and they went through SVA without the tester batting an eyelid.

John






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bigbird

posted on 8/1/08 at 08:05 PM Reply With Quote
my bet is that little yellow bung in the T piece will leak.
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Stuart_B

posted on 8/1/08 at 08:57 PM Reply With Quote
i am have not done the other side yet i need a brake flaring tool, so i can shorten it.

stuart

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vinnievector

posted on 9/1/08 at 07:27 AM Reply With Quote
brake pipes

Picked up two things you might want to look at ,as your pipe gose over the diff support brackets you might get some chaffing their ,also at the wheel hub end where you have your solid brake pipe from your wheel cylinder to your flexi hose there is no support braket .

attached some picks of my set if it helps Rescued attachment Picture 219.jpg
Rescued attachment Picture 219.jpg

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tks

posted on 9/1/08 at 06:43 PM Reply With Quote
also its best to give each side on the T the same lenght!

it wil result in the same pressure losts both rear wheels wil act more the same while unther braking.


Tks





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RazMan

posted on 9/1/08 at 06:52 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by tks
also its best to give each side on the T the same lenght!

it wil result in the same pressure losts both rear wheels wil act more the same while unther braking.



It makes no difference whatever length the pipes are - you are still moving the same volume of fluid so the pressure is still the same.





Cheers,
Raz

When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box

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NS Dev

posted on 10/1/08 at 11:31 AM Reply With Quote
two points, already covered but:

1) bracket in 3mm ish steel to support the flexi to copper junction near the drum (weld a bit of 3 mm strip on or hold it with a bolt head)

2) flexi looks like its rubbing the chassis?? If it is it will fail. Just slacken the end fittings and rotate the flexi to a safe position and lock them up again.





Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion retro car restoration and tuning

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DarrenW

posted on 10/1/08 at 12:11 PM Reply With Quote
Why cant the flexy be screwed straight into the wheel cylinder?






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Stuart_B

posted on 10/1/08 at 02:10 PM Reply With Quote
so 3mm steel is need for the brackets, and if the flexi is touching the chassis,can i wrap something around the flexi??

Thanks

Stuart

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