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Help required, Treadmill controller board
RoadkillUK - 21/3/09 at 03:19 AM

I bought a Treadmill from eBay, I know it didn't work but it was a bargain (or was it), anyway it needs a controller board and they are blinkin' expensive new and that's if I can get one. There seems to be a couple in the USA but they use 110V

What I'm hoping for is that one of you out there knows where I may be able to get hold of one of these boards or maybe something else that will do the job (No BEC's )

The Treadmill is a Proform Crosswalk model number PETL5652. The board is a MC-2000 or MC-2000E (Maybe E means Europe).

From what I can gather from this diagram is that it takes 220V AC and converts it to 220V DC using the Speed Potentionometer. Is there something else out there that will replace it?




Thanks in advance

t16turbotone - 21/3/09 at 06:45 AM

i can help you with this one, firstly is the pcb definatley at fault? you need to test the drive motor, (countless times ive seen people fit new pcbs only to find the drive motor caused the pcb to blow in the first place) you need a 110v tool transformer and a 15AMP bridge rectifier (maplins) to test the motor first. then move on to the electronics which i may be able to repair for you. U2U me for advise if you like

ReMan - 21/3/09 at 07:14 AM

As said above. using logic alone I assume that there is mains getting in and the incline motor works?
If so then it could either be the belt motor or the controller, or the thermoswitch. To test the motor under load as above. But are you able to measure any voltages witha multimeter? You may be able to check the output to the motor with it disconnected. And there are other voiltages bentioned on the diagram that would be worth checking. Likewise are there any components on the board such as fuses or trips that could be easily cheched (with it powered off).
Otherwise, turbo sounds like he knows a bit about them

RoadkillUK - 21/3/09 at 10:40 AM

I have a multimeter and have checked several points. The incline motor works fine but that on it's own will soon get boring

I've tested the motor as far as putting 12v to it and it runs, the thermal switch seems ok as it's closed atm and allowing current through. All signs point to the controller, and just to confirm the HV BUSS light lights up. See Below.

Rod Ends - 21/3/09 at 06:43 PM

quote:

From what I can gather from this diagram is that it takes 220V AC and converts it to 220V DC using the Speed Potentiometer.


I doubt the speed potentiometer is directly controlling the motor.
More likely it's just a low-voltage input to the controller.

If you can disconnect the plug and measure the resistance across red & black it should be 10k ohms.

Across red & white it should be less and change as you turn the knob.

ReMan - 21/3/09 at 08:03 PM

I would guess (jump to conclusion maybe) the the output / motor driver circuit is at fault then.
Can you see any sign of cooking or dry solder joints on big power transistor type components, possibly on an ally heatsink?( I have no idea what this board looks like )