Following on from this thread , I replaced the clutch cable and the engine oil but still no good.

I then bought some new clutch plates because I thought that the old ones might be worn or contaminated, sure enough they were all but worn out so in with the new ones and now despite repeated attempts at adjustment (I'm pretty sure I know how to adjust a clutch!) the clutch drags so much that I can't change gear on the move and I can't get it into neutral without stopping the engine

as ever I would be grateful for any suggestions as to what to do next.

The engagement seemed fine when first trying it out by the way.

Cheers

Mark

Ok, have you checked the clutch basket for wear? sometimes the clutch baskets wear a little leaving small notches/grooves in the clutch plate locating teeth, these grooves will stop the clutch plates moving in and out of the basket freely causing a dragging clutch. Also did you replace the steel plates as well as the friction plates? The steel plates can warp, usually if they have gone blue.

As above, serated fingers on the clutch basket, or warped steels.... you did replace both steels and friction didn't you?

OK, so the above is all good, the cable is good. Time to look elsewhere.... is the clutch pushrod bent? Does it show evidence of spinning within it's sleeve? I don't know the model, but does your bike clutch have a cush drive of some sort (springs, sprag or somesuch) that's broken? I've seen the circumferal spring type with th several coils broken.....

If the oil is too thick the clutch will drag. e.g if you use car engine oil on a bike. If the metal plates are damaged eg. by continually dropping the clutch to do wheelies from a standstill the clutch will become very grabby which sounds more like your problem. You can file the damaged edges flat but it takes ages or just replace the metal plates.