i am making a model of a structure not too dissimilar from a locost spaceframe.

I am using 1/16" brass RHS.

What I want to know is the best way to join the parts, will soldering or brazing work?

I don't have a lot of experience, so I would like some advice


Liam

[Edited on 31/5/04 by liam.mccaffrey]

I have made model steam engines so maybe i can help...

It comes down to the strength you want. But you CANT braze it as brazing rod is brass (of one sort or another) and will melt at the same temp as your work...

You can use normal soft solder (used for plumbing) with flux paste.

Or if you want extra strength you can silver solder. This requires a special flux (which you should be able to get from where ever you buy it).

I soft solder almost all of my engine parts, it is even good for boilers running at 30 odd psi. And its far easier than silver soldering!

Whatever you chose you need a good blow torch (plumbers ones are good!)

Hope that helps,
David

We've soldered our own tee's using bits of pipe too. They've held together on our BEC. Remove traces of flux afterwards as I have been told they are quite corrosive if left on (don't know how true it is).

The flux is corrosive, but different types vary. For instance 'Baker Fliud' is really nasty! But if you use one designed for use in plumbing, then its water based and usually not too bad.

Hard to get off once its cooked with a blow torch, but you can attack it with a brass wire brush in a dremel or something.

Cheers,
David

quote:

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Originally posted by flak monkey


It comes down to the strength you want. But you CANT braze it as brazing rod is brass (of one sort or another) and will melt at the same temp as your work...

David

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Don't forget that a soft-soldered joint is only strong where there's a fairly large surface area in the joint - a butt joint wouldn't work, but a lap joint would. If you can get some mechanical link then that would be even better (e.g. fold each side over 180 degrees, then link each 'hook' together and knock it flat with a mallet).

There are varying degrees of hardness for soft solder - basic electrician's solder has the lowest melting point but is also the softest, then plumbing solder which needs a big iron or a blowtorch, up to hard tin-lead solders like Comsol - not easy to find, but as strong as tin-lead solders get.

For any real strength you really need silver solder, but that's a fair leap forward (special fluxes, heating to red-hot, expense, etc.).

David

what i am building is a spaceframe type structure exactly like a locost chassis but with 1/16" brass rhs

It doesn't have to be super strong as it is only a model. looks like soldering it is then, any tips?

what solder and flux to use that sort of thing?

if its just a model, electrical solder is much easier to heat and flow, its flux cored, and does not make a mess!

You use a blow torch, normal plumbing solder (you can also use electrical solder) and flux paste.

It shouldn't take long to heat the metal to melt soft solder. Make sure both parts are clean so jet a good joint.

I agree with Andy.

Plumbers solder and flux plaste, just take a trip to you local plumbers merchant or even Focus/Hombase.

You might want to use different melting points solders, do the main structure in high melting point then use lower melting point solders for bits aded on as it nears completion --- that way you reduce he risk of melting joints you have already made --- raddiator repair solder is low melting point for this reason.

My wife makes stuff for her dollhouses using similar materials. She joins thin stuff similar to yours with electrical flux cored solder using a 12 volt soldering iron and they hold together quite succesfully.

does she have a tiny locost in the tiny garage?

This is a straight question, and not any form of inuendo,,,,,,


atb

steve

No garages on the houses she builds Steve.
http://www.homestead.com/brensdollhouses/