Looking for advice for putting up a partition wall that is non load bearing - it is to form one side of a cube that hides the hot water tank in the bathroom; other two sides are made by external and internal walls, and other wall is mostly a door frame with door.

So my thought is to make up a frame, tie it down to external wall and floor, then attach plywood and/or add a piece of plaster board on top. I want the wall to be strong obviously - nothing to hang from it (i.e. no sink),. maybe a small cabinet but that is it but want it to be thin; also it is not near shower so water should not be a problem.

Can I just get away with plasterboard - 1 layer or need something stronger such as the ply then fix the plaster board on top ... in fact ... with the ply, would I need the plaster board?

I will be tiling over the outside of the partition wall.

ta.

Stud walls are normally just platerboard then skimmed. Tiled on top.

You say thin, but how thin. How high is important too. You "may" get away with 2" studs, and wickes certainly sell the 2 1/2" studwork timber that is OK for up to 8".
Is it to be tiled over?? If so plasterboard should be fine, just make sure you have timbers where you want to hang the cabinet. Ply is stronger, but not necessary.

I have DIYed a few stud walls, just battens and plaster board with stews he's, if you want to hang stuff off the wall, build with that in mind and make sure cross beams are wear you will need them.

thx for replies .... seems I am on the right track.

the wall is 2.4 m high, 0.7 m wide. I am limited as to how far into the airing cupbard I can go due to placement of pipes and want its surface to end up more or less flush with the door frame - this will save having to stick on 10 mm wide tiles on the edge ...... so I reckon p to 100 mmm total tickness including the plaster board.