any1 had probs with a vw golf 1300 88 carbed (shitty pierburg twin choke)
after bout 15mins of town drivin it starts to lose power misfirin etc if ur lucky it will cough and splutter at idile but wont rev or if it cuts out
wait 30 secs and it'll start and pull like train
but on motorways itll drive at 70+ all day drop below 60 and itllcough+ splutter lose power and eventually i'm on the hard shoulder wait 30secs to a
min and then it goes like a rocket
had plugs and leads cap rotor arm bout 6mnths ago
tried ignition module the resovoir thingy on the front of carb stripped cleand the carb ,fuel filt, redex disconnected the heater plate on manifold
new inlet manifold gasket
any one else any ideas b4 i lose my rag and burn the nazis piece of crap
try the coil if it,s getting hot itl be a short in the windings otherwise burn it
My bro-in-law had exactly the same trouble with his Polo (same engine+carb) and we eventually found out that the carb was icing up! Check to see if
the 'hot air from exhaust manifold' system is working correctly, and that the inlet manifold heater is working (fitted to the bottom of the inlet
manifold)
HTH Stu.
Seen this before, the fuel system is a return loop, the is a biased Y connector to feed the carb, it has a large and a small side (shit, cant remember
which one does what) The small one gets blocked and upsets the fuel pressure, the connector costs about £2 so its worth a try - if it doesnt solve the
problem all the above seems good advice
PS Always try the cheapest solutions first!
carb only has 1 feed and return was through the wee resovoir thingy was told they give hassles and to get rid of it
the only effect that disconnecting the heater was that it stopped the fan belt squealin in the mornin didnt make the problem any worse
but i think the wee tube comin of the mani is missing
another thing i was told was to make sure it had the 3 prong plugs
We had a similar problem with a Golf a few years back. It would only run flat out or on choke. It was the fuel pump diaphragm and was perfect after it
was replaced.
yours, Pete.
new pump bout month ago
it went at 11 on a sun night in the arse hole of no where co-incidently doin the same journey were the fan belt broke on my fester and cooked the
engine
Hi johnston,
Is it the carb with the Wax-Stat choke mechanism. If so then these are a common problem and the carb needs minor overhaul.
If not a Wax-Stat type then it sound like you have either a worn/faulty needle valve into the float chamber, or blocked idle airjets. (carb
compensates by drawing from where ever available, if air jets blocked then it draws from fuel. Had an Escort once that would not do more than 60mph
towards Birmingham, thought the car was maybe inteligent?, turned out to be a dead fly! go with the wind =110mph+, go into wind = 60mph. remove fly
from beside air corrector jet, problem solved.)
Most jets in a carb are about the diameter of a hair, so it does not take much to block them.
Hope you get sorted
not wax stat c choke first thing i done was strip and clean carb but think it could be worn
replaced air draw tube from ex mani and fitted 3 prong plugs so far so gd if not its gettin a carb from my local second hand parts retailer
Quote - 'if not its gettin a carb from my local second hand parts retailer'
Is that a bloke down the pub???
thought that sounded better than the scrappie round the corner
wouldnt want to offend him he can come in very usefull
ok put a dizzy on and has run fine for a month until now (of course wen i was on the way to get THE card)
no bac to no spark everythin checkin out ok is there anything can could burn out the electronics in the dizzy (its breakerless)
i have driven past two burning cars in the last month. both in the same place.
ecton brook lane in northants is a dumping ground for em just outside a travellers site. Im too lazy to turn round, but driving past a car in full
flame is a bit of a nail biter cos you never know if its gonna pop when you go past.
this road is used as a dump for cars, trailers, caravans, sofas, tony blairs policy on iraq, just about anything.
and at the end of it is an official dump that charges to take things away. We have a very intelligent council in northants.
atb
steve
quote:
Originally posted by johnston
and then it goes like a rocket
or maybe you mean spaceshuttle?
quote:
Originally posted by johnston
ok put a dizzy on and has run fine for a month until now (of course wen i was on the way to get THE card)
no bac to no spark everythin checkin out ok is there anything can could burn out the electronics in the dizzy (its breakerless)
quote:
should also change coil because this could be causing a high voltage bleed back through the dizzy & amp
In that case check ALL your body earths VERY, VERY carefully. Your symptoms would seem to suggest that you ignition spark is in reality earthing out
through the ignition system as opposed to through the body earths. Each coil when it fires, in reality produces 2 sparks, one positive & one negative,
Distributor systems utilise only one of them through the King lead the other is earthed out normally through the coil body to earth. DIS
(Distributor-less Ignition Sytems) normaly utilise 2 coils (4 cylinder) with a pair of leads off each coil (1 neg, 1pos) going to either 1 & 4 or 2 &
3 cylinders. So logic dictates that if you've replaced distributor & your coil is OK then its wasted spark is not earthing through the normal
channnels and is earthing through the distributor. Hence check and or replace all your earth leads.
Sorry long explanation.
Enjoy.
If you do decide on the Swan Vesta Restoration, pull the diff and drive shafts out of it first, theyre handy for making a neat drive unit for
rear-mid-engined BECs.
God rest her soul.
sorted the ignition module i changed after x-mass didnt need changed when i did it just thought it would prevent any hassles further down the road
wat a mistka to maka feckin dizzy cost me 35 bloody quid 2
thatll teach me not fix things that aint broken