ChrisW
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| posted on 19/3/10 at 06:32 PM |
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Woodwork help!
I need to make some new doors for my workshop. The only ones have rotted beyond recognition, so much so that I had to nail them shut a few weeks back
just to hold them together!
I got a load of wood delivered today and intend to build the doors this weekend.
Planning on making a frame like this out of 4x2"
...then cladding it with 18mm outdoor ply.
Now, originally I was thinking that the cladding would hold the 4x2" frame together, but it occured to me last night that it would probably be
better if the frame supported itself. To do that of course I need to find some way of fixing the corners.
Now, I'm no carpenter, so any kind of clever joint is out of the question. So, I was wondering about bolting the corners like this:
and...
Is this a good idea? Will the wood split? Will it even be strong enough? Or, is there something obvious I'm missing?
Time of of the essence here - my Father is coming tomorrow to help me put these together so I need to make sure I've got a plan ready and all
the bits to carry it out!
Anybody got any bright ideas, pointers, etc?
Cheers, Chris
[Edited on 3/19/2010 by ChrisW]
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theconrodkid
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| posted on 19/3/10 at 06:34 PM |
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ive seen angle plates that you screw onto the wood?
need a hand over the weekend? as i have a few spare slots,gis a bell if so
who cares who wins
pass the pork pies
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ChrisW
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| posted on 19/3/10 at 06:45 PM |
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We're starting at 10am tomorrow, Conrodski. Be there or be square*
Chris
*unlike the doors
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zilspeed
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| posted on 19/3/10 at 06:47 PM |
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If you don't want to go all the way to mortice and tenon, go for some half lap joints.
You can then put the brace in compression with the low end at the hinge side with the high end at the lock side.
[Edited on 19/3/10 by zilspeed]
[Edited on 19/3/10 by zilspeed]
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MakeEverything
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| posted on 19/3/10 at 06:48 PM |
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Just use long screws, then screw the ply to the frame to give it some extra strength.
I used some old wardrobe doors, and clad them with feather edge to match the rest of the shed.
Kindest Regards,
Richard.
...You can make it foolProof, but youll never make it Idiot Proof!...
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ChrisW
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| posted on 19/3/10 at 06:52 PM |
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Thanks for suggestions so far.
Keep in mind these things are 2.2m tall by 3.6m wide, so using old doors off anything else isn't going to happen.
Also needs to be reasonably pikey proof.
Chris
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Irony
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| posted on 19/3/10 at 06:54 PM |
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If you glue and use long screws for the frame and then glue and screw the cladding on it will be immensely strong. Just make sure you do it on a nice
flat surface to prevent warping. Plenty of wood glue and leave to cure over night. Then I reckon you have a door strong enough for anything.
you'll need strong hinges!
I need to do the same thing with my gates!
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plentywahalla
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| posted on 19/3/10 at 06:55 PM |
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Half Lap ...
... I was going to suggest but someone got there first.
Strong and simple, definately best way
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theconrodkid
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| posted on 19/3/10 at 07:08 PM |
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be about 11-30,Bill has no food and you know how grumpy he gets
who cares who wins
pass the pork pies
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BenB
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| posted on 19/3/10 at 07:11 PM |
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Personally.....
No more nails and some big nails would do it for me. I used to screw everything together until I did a load of stud walling in my house renovation.
Wacking nails into wood is not only therapeutic but a very effective way of holding stuff together. Certainly for what you need it for I'd do it
as in diagram one, bang them in at an angle. Ain't going nowhere. And bond the exterior quality ply onto the frame for good measure with some
NMN.
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Coopz
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| posted on 19/3/10 at 07:20 PM |
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I do a lot of chippy work, I would of said the same as zilspeed suggested.
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trextr7monkey
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| posted on 19/3/10 at 07:31 PM |
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Yeah Zil can stand on his chair and take a bow!
If you were nearer we have a big morticer at work and could have knocked them out.
One thing to add a bit of strength would be some tringular plywood plates on corners and joints, screwed into frame work- just like on theatre sets.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/14016102@N00/ (cut and paste this dodgey link)
Our most recent pics are here:
http://s129.photobucket.com/albums/p211/trextr7monkey/
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designer
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| posted on 19/3/10 at 08:00 PM |
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18mm exterior ply will be stronge enough by itself, no strengthening is required.
I have some hugh door in Leeds made of this and there is no problem at all.
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JoelP
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| posted on 19/3/10 at 08:23 PM |
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myself i would cut the ply to ensure the frame is square, then glue and screw with ply in and out. To be properly thief resistant though, id weld in a
metal angle frame and 16g skin on the outer.
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jacko
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| posted on 19/3/10 at 08:43 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by zilspeed
If you don't want to go all the way to mortice and tenon, go for some half lap joints.
You can then put the brace in compression with the low end at the hinge side with the high end at the lock side.
[Edited on 19/3/10 by zilspeed]
[Edited on 19/3/10 by zilspeed]
This is how i would do it in fact i did my Dad's garage doors this way
And use wood glue or Sikaflex
Jacko
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 20/3/10 at 12:33 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by ChrisW
Now, I'm no carpenter, so any kind of clever joint is out of the question. So, I was wondering about bolting the corners like this:
I'm not a carpenter either, though I really enjoy woodwork. About 6 years ago I made these
doors for my basement with mortice and tenon joints, and it wasn't too bad a job. I used a router to make both the mortices and the
tenons, and since I had so many to make I knocked up a couple of jigs out of scrap wood so it only took a few minutes for each joint.
The panels are made from marine ply, fitted into a slot routed into the frame. The frame was made from pressure treated wood sold for decking frames
etc. I wanted to make them from hardwood, but I was a bit skint at the time.
[Edited on 20/3/10 by MikeRJ]
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2cv
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| posted on 20/3/10 at 01:12 PM |
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Probably too late to change course now but If Pikeys are a problem I'd build the doors as metal frames from 2 x 1 inch erw and clad in
galvanised 20 gauge steel. Use hinge bolts and a robust hasp with a good padlock.
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