a4gom
|
| posted on 6/9/10 at 01:06 PM |
|
|
Levelling compound or alternative?
Looking to make my garage floor flat for suspension set up etc, can anyone suggest
a good levelling compound which will not get too upset by lifting my 7 up and down with the trolley jack.
It's not that far off but far enough off IYKWIM so I'm probably talking mm not inches
Andy
Perfect planning prevents pi$$ poor performance!
|
|
|
|
|
bigfoot4616
|
| posted on 6/9/10 at 01:11 PM |
|
|
any normal self leveling compound is not suitable for a finished floor and definatly wont last in a garage.
there may be something that would do it, but i wouldn't have thought anything going down that thinly would stay there
|
|
|
Badger_McLetcher
|
| posted on 6/9/10 at 01:14 PM |
|
|
Don't bother mate, just gone through this myself on my new garage. I've spent probably 90 quid on self levelling compound that... well...
doesn't. Doesn't even take out the tool marks.
Instead, assuming you've got a concrete floor, use a floor grinder/prepper. This is what I'm doing now, just waiting for the hire place
to get it in. Should be somewhere between 100-160 pounds for one day.
Will let you know how it goes when I get it!
Edit:
This is what I've been recommended linky
And this I was going to use, but they said it may be over kill (it also gets the floor polish smooth aparently!)
linky
Obviously this need painting etc afterwards!
[Edited on 6/9/10 by Badger_McLetcher]
If disfunction is a function, then I must be some kind of genius.
|
|
|
a4gom
|
| posted on 6/9/10 at 01:23 PM |
|
|
Looks like you're making the floor smooth though, thats not my problem. I have a smooth float finish already, I'm wanting the floor level
for setting up suspension, corner weights etc. I've considered just fixing a 2' floor tile under each of the wheels but it would be better
if all the floor was level.
Should have paid more attention when it was laid!
[Edited on 6/9/10 by a4gom]
Andy
Perfect planning prevents pi$$ poor performance!
|
|
|
Badger_McLetcher
|
| posted on 6/9/10 at 01:57 PM |
|
|
Ah, sorry I misunderstood you! Depending on how much you need to level, screed may be ok (usually ok up to 6mm normal, 15mm with sand added... this is
a rough estimate!). You'll need to slap it on, use a level to get it about right, and then use one of the tools above to smooth it off.
I should point out that I am no builder, this is just my opinion 
If disfunction is a function, then I must be some kind of genius.
|
|
|
hughpinder
|
| posted on 6/9/10 at 02:08 PM |
|
|
If the floor is basically flat (only a couple of mm ripple say), seal it with polyuretane alkyd floor paint (like screwfix 'heavy duty floor
paint' , let it dry, make a surround all round sealed to the floor and pour in the paint. Let it self level. I don't know what the
thickest coat is that will harden properly though. Obviously if the floor is not pre sealed, the paint will not level as well due to
'suction' from the absorbant areas.
Note: I have tried to grind a floor flat - it just seemed that the bit you worked on ended up as the new 'low' point....... Floor grinders
make the floor flat - this is not necessarily the same as level!
Regards
Hugh
|
|
|
Badger_McLetcher
|
| posted on 6/9/10 at 02:30 PM |
|
|
Sorry, going back the the original question, you're ideally looking for a water based compound. Try to stay away from latex compounds as they
tend to be weak.
If disfunction is a function, then I must be some kind of genius.
|
|
|
bigfoot4616
|
| posted on 6/9/10 at 03:54 PM |
|
|
as i said above, any leveling compound including water based ones, i've ever used has not been suitable for a finished floor. especially in a
garage.
there might be a product out there but i've never seen it(or looked for one)
if i was doing it i would think about doing it like this.
position the car where you want it.
mark 12/18" squares around the wheels.
find the highest square.
cut out and remove concrete(at least 3" deep) from the other 3.
concrete the 3 holes to the correct height sloping the edges into the existing floor. don't overlap onto the existing floor though as the new
concrete edge will break of where it goes thin.
as long as its only mm's you will never notice the raised parts but you will be able to see where they are so you know where to position the car
|
|
|
SeanStone
|
| posted on 6/9/10 at 04:34 PM |
|
|
Why not make your own drive on stage instead? You could adjust the level with the legs
|
|
|
Fred W B
|
| posted on 6/9/10 at 05:04 PM |
|
|
I would just:
Mark 4 wheel positions.
Put a 300 mm square steel or ally plate on each position.
Check level of each plate to the others, using lazer level and steel rule, or a spirit level on a long straight edge.
Adjust height of 3 low points by adding suitable thickness steel or ally shim plates (use 1.2, 1.6, or 3 mm plates in combination)
Once level, mark each set.
When required, position each shim stack in place, or bolt them permanently to the floor.
Cheers
Fred W B
[Edited on 6/9/10 by Fred W B]
[Edited on 6/9/10 by Fred W B]
You can do it quickly. You can do it cheap. You can do it right. – Pick any two.
|
|
|
rgrs
|
| posted on 6/9/10 at 06:59 PM |
|
|
Tile the floor. Gets bit level and gives a easy clean surface ?
Roger
|
|
|
Angel Acevedo
|
| posted on 8/9/10 at 06:33 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by Fred W B
I would just:
Mark 4 wheel positions.
Put a 300 mm square steel or ally plate on each position.
Check level of each plate to the others, using lazer level and steel rule, or a spirit level on a long straight edge.
Adjust height of 3 low points by adding suitable thickness steel or ally shim plates (use 1.2, 1.6, or 3 mm plates in combination)
Once level, mark each set.
When required, position each shim stack in place, or bolt them permanently to the floor.
Cheers
Fred W B
[Edited on 6/9/10 by Fred W B]
[Edited on 6/9/10 by Fred W B]
This is a great idea!!
I´ll save for later.
Thanks for posting.
AA
Beware of what you wish.. for it may come true....
|
|
|
Krismc
|
| posted on 8/9/10 at 07:32 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by rgrs
Tile the floor. Gets bit level and gives a easy clean surface ?
Roger
And its cold and you slip on your arse when its covered in oil!
Built, Ivaed, Drove and now Sold - 2011 MNR VORTX RT+ 2000cc Zetec on R1 Throttle boddies.
|
|
|
