mrwibble
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| posted on 28/3/11 at 09:10 AM |
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central heating problem
after faffing with a radiator most of yesterday, in order to paint behind it, i ended up draining the whole system to repair a leaky joint i caused
when straining the pipe lifting the radiator off. now i've got no heat from any of the radiators at all, i've read i black sludge from
iron oxide will block waters passage into the radiators and cause this problem, i've seen black sludge in the water i've drained, and i
reckon i've disturbed it from the bottom of the radiators when draining the system.
i've seen a couple of products that disperse this stuff, but the no nonsense product takes 4 weeks to work! wondered if anyone can recommend
something, also as its an indirect heating system how do i tell which water tank to add the treatment to. ta.
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swanny
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| posted on 28/3/11 at 09:44 AM |
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not sure where you'd apply this product, but you might want to think about getting the system fully cleared before adding anything new. get rid
of as much of that sludge as possible then prevent future build up.
paul
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splitrivet
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| posted on 28/3/11 at 10:08 AM |
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Bit obvious this but I take it you have bled the system including the pump.
Cheers,
Bob
I used to be a Werewolf but I'm alright nowwoooooooooooooo
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mrwibble
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| posted on 28/3/11 at 10:14 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by splitrivet
Bit obvious this but I take it you have bled the system including the pump.
Cheers,
Bob
bled all the radiators, not sure how to bleed the pump.
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splitrivet
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| posted on 28/3/11 at 10:22 AM |
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Large screw slot on the top of the pump, there may be a bleed vent usually above HW tank on the end of a bit of 15mm.
Is the system filling and pump running.
Cheers,
Bob
I used to be a Werewolf but I'm alright nowwoooooooooooooo
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mrwibble
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| posted on 28/3/11 at 10:27 AM |
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thanks split rivet. so i'm looking for an external pump outside the hot water cylinder. 1 prob is there are 2 water tanks, 1 is above the hot
water cylinder and hard to access, the 2nd is in the loft and very awkward to get at. The system is filling as i've got water coming from all
the radiator bleed valves upstairs, haven't looked at the pump much yet.
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splitrivet
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| posted on 28/3/11 at 10:40 AM |
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The pump could be anywhere but they are normally by the HW cylinder you should hear it running, if the boiler has been turned off it may need
resetting check the pilot light is on through the viewing window.
Cheers,
Bob
I used to be a Werewolf but I'm alright nowwoooooooooooooo
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mad4x4
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| posted on 28/3/11 at 12:53 PM |
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You've beld the system but have your re-pressuriesd it . Our central heating runs at about 1 -2 bar and if it falls below that it cuts out.
There is a fill point connected to the mains and you turn that on to bring the system up to WP (working pressure). if below WP then the system shuts
off.
Scot's do it better in Kilts.
MK INDY's Don't Self Centre Regardless of MK Setting !
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mrwibble
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| posted on 28/3/11 at 12:58 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by mad4x4
You've beld the system but have your re-pressuriesd it . Our central heating runs at about 1 -2 bar and if it falls below that it cuts out.
There is a fill point connected to the mains and you turn that on to bring the system up to WP (working pressure). if below WP then the system shuts
off.
not sure about that, i have a feeling your system is a direct system, rather than an indirect with water tanks...
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Peteff
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| posted on 28/3/11 at 03:41 PM |
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The tank above your cylinder should be your hot water header tank so the one in the loft will be the central heating header. If the radiators were
working before you drained down they should work after you refill, the sludge will not have been disturbed that much so it must be something you are
doing. Can you hear the pump when the heating is on? I've never heard of a bleed on the pump but there is a big screw on the front which removes
to insert a screwdriver to start a stuck pump, sometimes a little water comes out of this when you remove it.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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macc man
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| posted on 28/3/11 at 04:15 PM |
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Sounds like an air lock in the system to me. Have you tried blowing down the vent pipe in the loft. Usually gets things moving.
If system is air locked usually the boiler will not run for long as it gets too hot and cuts out. If your still struggling let me know.
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mrwibble
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| posted on 28/3/11 at 06:29 PM |
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right. boiler pilot light is on, and no signs of over heating... yet pump is huming, and tone changes when turned up to 3 (max) big screw undoes and
water comes out. so i guess i'm crawling into the loft now...
oh and we have no hot water now...
[Edited on 28/3/11 by mrwibble]
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mrwibble
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| posted on 28/3/11 at 07:04 PM |
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so i've blown down the vent pipe, wasn't sure how much oomf i needed to give so just blew down hard as i could 8 times... doesn't
seem to have done much. all i can think is to drain the system again.
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mrwibble
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| posted on 28/3/11 at 09:28 PM |
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well i'm completely foxed, the so called vent pipe doesn't seem air tight to me, its a simple plastic push fit pipe with plastic elbows
and joiners...
drained the whole system until nothing comes out, refilled, bled all radiators thoroughly, turned all taps to max.
the only thing getting hot is the pump.
done all this with hot water and heating turned on and off. no joy.
plumber it is i think.
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mrwibble
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| posted on 28/3/11 at 09:28 PM |
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well i'm completely foxed, the so called vent pipe doesn't seem air tight to me, its a simple plastic push fit pipe with plastic elbows
and joiners...
drained the whole system until nothing comes out, refilled, bled all radiators thoroughly, turned all taps to max.
the only thing getting hot is the pump.
done all this with hot water and heating turned on and off. no joy.
plumber it is i think.
pipes heading into the boiler are hot but the hot water cylinder isn't?
weird.
[Edited on 28/3/11 by mrwibble]
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Peteff
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| posted on 28/3/11 at 09:37 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by mrwibble
well i'm completely foxed, the so called vent pipe doesn't seem air tight to me, its a simple plastic push fit pipe with plastic elbows
and joiners...
drained the whole system until nothing comes out, refilled, bled all radiators thoroughly, turned all taps to max.
the only thing getting hot is the pump.
done all this with hot water and heating turned on and off. no joy.
plumber it is i think.
It sounds like that is your overflow pipe. The vent pipe should be copper and comes off the heating and finishes over the tank. Have you turned the
stops off on the end of the pump and not turned them back on? In the pump unions there are two screw head valves so you can remove the pump without
draining down and they should be in line with the pipe.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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mrwibble
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| posted on 29/3/11 at 08:23 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Peteff
quote:
Originally posted by mrwibble
well i'm completely foxed, the so called vent pipe doesn't seem air tight to me, its a simple plastic push fit pipe with plastic elbows
and joiners...
drained the whole system until nothing comes out, refilled, bled all radiators thoroughly, turned all taps to max.
the only thing getting hot is the pump.
done all this with hot water and heating turned on and off. no joy.
plumber it is i think.
It sounds like that is your overflow pipe. The vent pipe should be copper and comes off the heating and finishes over the tank. Have you turned the
stops off on the end of the pump and not turned them back on? In the pump unions there are two screw head valves so you can remove the pump without
draining down and they should be in line with the pipe.
there is no copper pipe finishing over the tank in the loft. haven't messed with the stops before or after the pump. when blowing down the
plastic pipe i could sort of feel/hear back pressure of water bubbling when i blew. to be honest it doesn't surprise me if its been bodged
together out of some scrap plastic pipe the plumber had, the whole house was one bodge after another.
[Edited on 29/3/11 by mrwibble]
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mrwibble
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| posted on 29/3/11 at 01:36 PM |
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so it turns out it was a faulty auto air valve. which someone had turned off as it was leaking, which must of been years ago... anyway replaced and
working now. thanks for replies.
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