02GF74
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 posted on 19/5/11 at 07:37 AM |
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last question honest .... about hardi board this time
ok, last question honest. I bought two sheets of hardi board 500 as this was much more rigid and stronger than plaster board so I will not need to
mess with a second layer of ply/mdf.
Just need to know how to cut and fix it - from what I can tell it is cement sandwiched between some stuff - is there a special saw to cut it? I
don't want to ruin a good say.
Also drilling - standard drill bit or masonary?
Screws - someone mentioned plasterboard screws but in B&Q at least, they are fluted so as to grip the board - I was asking about screws that go
through the board and into wooden battens, hence the penny washer idea.
I think that is all. 
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JoelP
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| posted on 19/5/11 at 08:02 AM |
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plaster board screws ARE for screwing through into battens.
Hardiboard, are you sure its not handiboard? Ie just small plasterboard. Either way, cut it by scoring with a stanley knife and snapping, then cut the
other side.
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02GF74
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| posted on 19/5/11 at 08:19 AM |
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these are the sort I was pointed to when askeing about plasterboard screws - the one on the left.
That isn't going to go deep enough into the wooden batten.
Yes, it is Hardi Board 500, dark grey and much heavier than plasterboard. made form cement it is much tougher too, not sure the scoring then crack
will do it; quite expensite to F.U. attempting that.
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macc man
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| posted on 19/5/11 at 08:57 AM |
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Hardiboard is cut either with a special scoring tool, or by jigsaw or tct circular saw. Best cut outside as it makes lots of dust.
It is best drilled with a tile drill or masonary drill. There are special ceramic coated scews available for fixing. But any plated countersunk screws
can be used.Good luck.
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Peteff
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| posted on 19/5/11 at 08:58 AM |
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You could cut it with a stone cutting disk in the grinder but I don't see why you needed anything stronger than plasterboard or why you think
plasterboard needs a backing. As long as the battens are spaced properly it is solid enough. The screw fitting you show there is for fitting to
plasterboard not for holding the board itself. I have seen radiators fitted to plasterboard with those screw fittings. Plasterboard screws are called
bugle head.
[Edited on 19/5/11 by Peteff]
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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James
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| posted on 19/5/11 at 09:43 AM |
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You're like me working on the car... making a simple job really hard!
18mm Plaster board would have been fine, it's absoloutely standard stuff for making walls and it in no way needs any sort of backing. You just
screw it to the studwork with plasterboard bugle screws (so called because the are bugle shaped and make a squeak when they are at the correct
depth!). Drive them in till they squeak and are flush and no further as if you go through the paper then the fixing is significantly weakened.
As for Hardibacker tile board... it's great stuff. I've used it a few times on various plumbing jobs.
As the others have said, it's cement based so you dont want to inhale the dust so cut it outside. If you dont have a special tool then just
carefully score it a few times with a Stanley knife (be prepared to chuck the blade- it wrecks them!) against a steel rule and break it. Is really
easy!
As for attaching it, when you buy the board from Topps Tiles etc. they offer you the special correct screws with it. Try Screwfix for them. They
should come with a special square screwdriver bit. I've had square bit heads and posidrive/philips screw heads and the screw head just broke my
driver bits. The square bit just about lasted a packet of screws worth! 
Check your tile adhesive to see if you should PVA the tile board before tiling.
Hope this helps,
James
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"The fight is won or lost far away from witnesses, behind the lines, in the gym and out there on the road, long before I dance under those lights."
- Muhammad Ali
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James
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| posted on 19/5/11 at 11:23 AM |
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Can't find the Hardiebacker screws at Screwfix though I'm sure I've seen them there before.
I've usually/always got mine from Topps.
http://www.toppstiles.co.uk/section1061/page1/hardiebacker-board
Find your nearest store and get them from them. Ask about the 'square head' screws rather than cross-head. As I said, I got through a
brand new 10 pack of driver bits putting up the last boards I did- snapped the tip of every single one!  
Cheers,
James
EDIT: It can sometimes be really hard to get the screws flush which'll make tiling *real* hard! I would get the board held in place with a few
screws and then do a small pilot with a decent sized counter sink (use a cheap drill bit or masonary bit for this as it's concrete and will
blunt!) for the rest.
[Edited on 19/5/11 by James]
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"The fight is won or lost far away from witnesses, behind the lines, in the gym and out there on the road, long before I dance under those lights."
- Muhammad Ali
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DarrenW
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| posted on 19/5/11 at 01:20 PM |
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The screws in your pic arent for fastening plaster boards up onto battens. They are for fastening shelves etc to plasterboard walls. The first bit is
screwed into the board, the thinner screw then holds the bracket (etc). and threads itself into the first (does that make sense???? easier to say than
type).
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40inches
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| posted on 19/5/11 at 03:37 PM |
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Ceramic screws
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