locoboy
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| posted on 29/4/12 at 05:50 PM |
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home electrical socket boxes
Following on from my stud walling thread (thanks for all your input) I am now about to gather the electrical hardware that will be installed on the
stud wall once erected.
Can anyone offer any advice on what kind of socket boxes I need to put in and how do they affix to the wall / noggins behind?
The wall will be plasterboard but not plastered if that makes any difference.
Thanks
Col
ATB
Locoboy
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Ben_Copeland
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| posted on 29/4/12 at 06:01 PM |
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http://www.diydoctor.org.uk/projects/socketsintoplasterboard.htm
Should give you all the info you need
Ben
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Macbeast
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| posted on 29/4/12 at 06:18 PM |
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Make them doubles - someday you'll be glad you did 
I'm addicted to brake fluid, but I can stop anytime.
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locoboy
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| posted on 29/4/12 at 06:19 PM |
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Ohh they will be doubles don't worry!
Thanks for the link, Just ordered what I need, I presume all socket 'fronts' have the same hole spacing and will fit any patress box?
ATB
Locoboy
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Strontium Dog
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| posted on 29/4/12 at 06:26 PM |
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Yes, all face plates for sockets or switches etc. have standardised screw spacings for either single or double back boxes. 
[Edited on 29/4/12 by Strontium Dog]
http://s187.photobucket.com/albums/x319/zephyr2000/General%20forum%20uploads/?action=view¤t=3DEngine.mp4
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tegwin
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| posted on 29/4/12 at 06:48 PM |
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I really hate those plastic stud wall boxes, they never feel secure somehow...
the last time I built a stud wall I added extra battons and screwed in metal backboxes. Much more able to withstand "abuse" without
tearing out of the plasterboard.
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Would the last person who leaves the country please switch off the lights and close the door!
www.verticalhorizonsmedia.tv
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steve m
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| posted on 29/4/12 at 06:52 PM |
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I would also space them at good intervals around the garage, mine are about one to two metre apart, and on 3 sides of the garage
the fourth is the door, so no point, haha
Also doubles are a must
The next realy usefull thing is extension leads, i must have about 6 hanging up in the garage, ranging from 20m long to just a couple of metres, and
all of them get used at some time
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nick205
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| posted on 29/4/12 at 07:28 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by tegwin
I really hate those plastic stud wall boxes, they never feel secure somehow...
the last time I built a stud wall I added extra battons and screwed in metal backboxes. Much more able to withstand "abuse" without
tearing out of the plasterboard.
2nd that, the plastic patress boxes for plasterboard always feel flimsy and work a bit loose. A well paced noggin and proper metal box works much
better.
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locoboy
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| posted on 29/4/12 at 08:41 PM |
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I ordered metal boxes as I thought a well placed noggin would provide a better securing point than the 10mm of board areound the perimeter of the
socket hole!
Some plugs and sockets are very tight and yanking on a plug would break that socket box I reckon.
What cable would you recommend I get to wire it up with?
Anyone got any spare for beer tokens?
My wall is 5m long and will have sockets along its length, there is an existing socket where the wall will start and I think the plan is to come off
this one to wire in the 5 new sockets.
Im assuming I will only need approx 5m of cable then?
ATB
Locoboy
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slingshot2000
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| posted on 29/4/12 at 08:58 PM |
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Are you sure you should be wiring these up if you have to ask on here what cable?
5 sockets should be on a ring, so 5 metres is definetly not enough.
Have you ordered grommtets for the knock-out boxes?
Earth sleeving ?
Have you heard of Part 'P' of the Building Regulations ?
Regards
Jon
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locoboy
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| posted on 29/4/12 at 09:03 PM |
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ohhhhh Believe me I am not wiring them up I am not that stupid!
I just wanted to have everything ready to go when my father in law comes to wire them in for me.
I didn't want to embarrass myself by asking the dumb questions to him, I would rather embarrass myself in the virtusl land of Locostbuilders!
ATB
Locoboy
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SteveWalker
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| posted on 29/4/12 at 09:25 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by slingshot20005 sockets should be on a ring, so 5 metres is definetly not enough.
Sockets can be on a radial rather than a ring, but that would typically require a 20A MCB or fuse for 2.5 sq mm T&E or 32A/30A for 4 sq mm. My own
garage is wired radially with a 20A limit, it's enough, especially as you can draw considerably more than 20A for short periods without any
problems, as both fuses and MCBs have a very slow trip for overloads, much faster for shorts.
I've not read the original thread, so one question is what is the garage fed from? That in itself is probably a radial and depending upon its
length and size, volt drop and earth loop impedance may be of concern.
Regards, Steve Walker
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locoboy
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| posted on 29/4/12 at 09:31 PM |
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You are talking double Dutch now!
The garage is detached from the house and has its own fuse box inside the garage.
I have a ring running round the top of the garage with the existing sockets 'dropping' down from it, If it makes it safer I do have
sockets at both ends of where the proposed dividing wall will be so I can run 3 new ones from one existing socket and 2 new ones from
another?
Surely that is no different from taking a 'spur' from an existing socket and adding on a couple of new ones in line??
Or am I best to just shut up now!?
ATB
Locoboy
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cjwood23
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| posted on 30/4/12 at 01:36 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by locoboy
You are talking double Dutch now!
The garage is detached from the house and has its own fuse box inside the garage.
I have a ring running round the top of the garage with the existing sockets 'dropping' down from it, If it makes it safer I do have
sockets at both ends of where the proposed dividing wall will be so I can run 3 new ones from one existing socket and 2 new ones from
another?
Surely that is no different from taking a 'spur' from an existing socket and adding on a couple of new ones in line??
Or am I best to just shut up now!?
If you intend add them as spurs you will need to add a fused connection unit before the sockets. You are allowed ONLY 1 spured single socket from a
ring without the need for addtional fused connection units etc.
How deep is your stud wall? does the feed to the sockets have an RCD or RCBO fitted?
______________________
Chris
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JoelP
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| posted on 30/4/12 at 07:33 PM |
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Lots of good points raised so far.
Main reason you cant daisychain them all onto a single cable is that you can draw lots of current from 10 outlets. A 2.5mm cable is only rated at ISTR
22A, but the circuit breaker might be 32A, so there is a chance of melting the cable without the breaker protecting it (which is what its there
for).
RCD is a good thing to have.
The board in your garage will probably have a 16A breaker for the sockets, which makes it a bit easier as a single cable is then adequately protected.
Is there a breaker in your house consumer unit that feeds the garage board? Do you have an RCD in either board (switch has an additional button on it
to test it)?
Its quite easy to cobble something together that will work. Its harder to do it right, and harder still to test it to prove its done right.
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