Printable Version | Subscribe | Add to Favourites
New Topic New Poll New Reply
Author: Subject: braking and master cylinders?
omega0684

posted on 23/2/06 at 10:03 PM Reply With Quote
braking and master cylinders?

hi everybody, got a question about braking, why do some cars have single master cylinders and others have twin master cylinders( i assume one is for front and the other for rear) why is this beneficial to the braking of the car, can someone please explain this for me.

thanks Alex





I love Pinto's, even if i did get mine from P&O!

View User's Profile E-Mail User Visit User's Homepage View All Posts By User U2U Member
tasmin289

posted on 23/2/06 at 10:14 PM Reply With Quote
A twin master cylinder is effectively two independent braking systems built in one housing; so if you lose one circuit you still have braking to two wheels. With single line master cylinder, losing a circuit means no brakes at all.
View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
omega0684

posted on 23/2/06 at 10:17 PM Reply With Quote
r both master cylinders connected to the brake peddle then





I love Pinto's, even if i did get mine from P&O!

View User's Profile E-Mail User Visit User's Homepage View All Posts By User U2U Member
Jon Ison

posted on 23/2/06 at 10:19 PM Reply With Quote
yup, in a lot of cases by a "bias bar" this way you can adjust the amount of braking too the front and rear independently.






View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
flak monkey

posted on 23/2/06 at 10:20 PM Reply With Quote
With twin master cylinders you can adjust the bias from front to rear without too much hassle. You have one cylinder for the front the front and one for the rear.

If you have a single master cylinder you cant adjust the bias so easily. Just because you have one doesnt mean you lose breaking if it dies though.

Common mistake, tandem master cylinder is one unit with two different outputs (one front one rear or diagonal split). Twin master cylinders are two seperate units, one front, one rear and need a balance bar setup to work.

David





Sera

http://www.motosera.com

View User's Profile Visit User's Homepage View All Posts By User U2U Member
tasmin289

posted on 23/2/06 at 10:21 PM Reply With Quote
Hi my post was slightly misleading. You mean 2 brake master cylinders side by side? If so; yes they are both connected to the pedal with a balance bar.
View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
skydivepaul

posted on 23/2/06 at 11:57 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by tasmin289
Hi my post was slightly misleading. You mean 2 brake master cylinders side by side? If so; yes they are both connected to the pedal with a balance bar.


Yes thats right. Normally that sort of set up is reserved for racing use and the balance bar control is mounted in the cockpit for easy adjustment whilst driving. It is not needed for road use or even track day use unless you have the budget or inclination to have this sort of set up.





http://www.smartideasuk.com
http://www.smartmapping.co.uk
HD CCTV
3D design solutions and integration
IP security systems
access control systems

View User's Profile Visit User's Homepage View All Posts By User U2U Member
JAG

posted on 24/2/06 at 09:12 AM Reply With Quote
quote:

It is not needed for road use



To clarify - any vehicle with a driver adjustable brake bias system is actually illegal on British roads.

For SVA the balance/bias bar has to be locked and non-adjustable.

That's not to say some people don't change that after the SVA test.





Justin


Who is this super hero? Sarge? ...No.
Rosemary, the telephone operator? ...No.
Penry, the mild-mannered janitor? ...Could be!

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
omega0684

posted on 24/2/06 at 09:49 AM Reply With Quote
yes i was reading the DAX build manual last night, and they say that you need to have a small spot weld to hold the bias bar in place for SVA.

one problem....i dont have a welder

Alex





I love Pinto's, even if i did get mine from P&O!

View User's Profile E-Mail User Visit User's Homepage View All Posts By User U2U Member
JAG

posted on 24/2/06 at 11:23 AM Reply With Quote
Some people drill through one m/cyl' fixing and the adjuster rod and insert a roll pin. That does a similar job.





Justin


Who is this super hero? Sarge? ...No.
Rosemary, the telephone operator? ...No.
Penry, the mild-mannered janitor? ...Could be!

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
Mix

posted on 24/2/06 at 11:41 AM Reply With Quote
I wouldn't advocate drilling through the adjuster rod and push rod clevis, this will weaken the rod greatly in an area that experiences load under braking, far better to add a lock nut to each end of the adjuster and drill through these and the bar. This area of the bar experiences no load under braking.

Mick

View User's Profile Visit User's Homepage View All Posts By User U2U Member

New Topic New Poll New Reply


go to top






Website design and SEO by Studio Montage

All content © 2001-16 LocostBuilders. Reproduction prohibited
Opinions expressed in public posts are those of the author and do not necessarily represent
the views of other users or any member of the LocostBuilders team.
Running XMB 1.8 Partagium [© 2002 XMB Group] on Apache under CentOS Linux
Founded, built and operated by ChrisW.