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Author: Subject: OT Shimming a brake disc?
02GF74

posted on 9/9/09 at 12:39 PM Reply With Quote
OT Shimming a brake disc?

righty ho, did some measurements on my rear disc (Z1000 A1) and run out is 0.5 mm (Haynes say 0.3 mm max) and it is dished, gotta be close to 1 mm between inner and outer surface

anyways, got a replacement, run out is 0.18 mm and no dishing to note ..... but when fitted, the disc is not central in the brake caliper slot - it is too close to the inner side. (original disc was too close to the outer, grrrr..... )

To get round this, I can put in a 0.5 or 0.7 mm shim between the hub and disc. I cannot see any issues with this as the disc carrier will still have lots of overlap over the raised hub section (spigot?) to be centralised plus the disc will be clamped up tight as before.

So what does the locost builders collective brain think?

The alternatvie is to true the rear caliper or replace it in the hope that a replacement fits. I may give the caliper a damn good bashing to see if I can persuad it into shape - it is rather chunky item so I doubt I'lll get very far.

The shims i.e. hollow disc with 4 holes, will be made from aluminium and assembled with thermal grease so that shouldn't cause any issues with heat transfer.

Any other suggestions????






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DarrenW

posted on 9/9/09 at 12:45 PM Reply With Quote
Can caliper carrier position be adjusted?

Seems to be a common experience these days with brakes.






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matt_claydon

posted on 9/9/09 at 12:49 PM Reply With Quote
Why does it matter? Surely you either have sliding calipers or piston(s) on both sides; either way they'll sort themselves out.
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Mr Whippy

posted on 9/9/09 at 12:52 PM Reply With Quote
^ the carrier that holds the sliding piston need to be centralised between the disk

just shim it. I had to grind off 2mm from mine to centralise the back calipers as my disk adaptor was a bit thick



[Edited on 9/9/09 by Mr Whippy]






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02GF74

posted on 9/9/09 at 12:52 PM Reply With Quote
not on the rear you don't.

sure it matters since it seems the pistons won't go back in any further (one I think may be seized) hence one pad is loose, as it should be, the other is dragging on the disc due to the misalignment.






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Flamez

posted on 9/9/09 at 12:56 PM Reply With Quote
I used steel washers, now the pads a re worn I'll probably remove them.





my build mac1motorsports

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dmac

posted on 9/9/09 at 07:12 PM Reply With Quote
If one of the pistons is seized then you need to sort that out before you go any further. Even if the hydraulic pressure pushes it out it won't return so it will still cause the pad to drag.

Duncan

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