DarrenW
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| posted on 10/9/09 at 09:02 AM |
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Mini spi to carbs??????
Hope you can advise.
Ive started refurbing my Mini. Doing the backend at the mo (subframe out, derusting, welding in patches, overhauling the bits etc - all pretty basic
stuff). Im thinking ahead to other mods to do.
When wondering about engine, i was taking a look under bonnet and thinking how messy it all looks. Being more of an old school type i started
wondering if it would look neater and perform better if i removed the ECU, emissions control bits and bobs, replumbed the breathers to a catch tank,
fitted a pair of bike carbs, megajolt for the ignition etc. 2 areas im not sure about;
1. Would car ever pass an MOT if i remove the SPi stuff (its a N-reg sidewalk, 1995). Not sure on the rules surrounding cats etc. Some say after a
particular year the car has to have one fitted, others say if the emissions are ok then it doesnt matter i fthere is a cat or not (ie the cat just
helps it pass).
2. Does the car have a built in immobiliser and would that be a pain to remove? Keyfob is Rover and has what look like alarm buttons but they dont do
anything. Not sure if the key has a chip in it though.
Assuming the car could pass an MOT then i guess simplest way forward would be to strip out the front end completely and rewire from scratch. I would
probs end up with more robust electricals too as i could reposition all of the fuses and relays etc, plus no dizzy to get wet (i recall Mini's
are very prone to electrical gremlins in the wet).
Other option is to replace spi gear with throttle bodies but the cost will increase beyond my reach and i have experience with bike carbs and megajolt
already. It has been put to me though it may be simpler to find a pair of SU's and mini manifold cheaper then just add the megajolt.
Im starting to wish id bought a car a few years older!
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smart51
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| posted on 10/9/09 at 09:19 AM |
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Cars from 92 had to pass either a basic cat emissions test or a stricter test specified by the manufacturer. Some didn't bother. in 95 the
rules were tightened up so that all manufacturers had to specify a limit.
Suzuki cappuccinos were sold up to July 1995 under the old scheme. In 1995 the car was face lifted with a modified engine. They didn't want to
re-homologate the new car under the new rules for the small UK sales volume so just stopped importing them. Personal imports from 95 were SVAed and
had their SVA emission results written on the V5.
I doubt the MOT inspector would check if you had a cat fitted but will check the emissions. Yours is a 95 N so will fall under the stricter rules.
Why not leave it as it is if it works?
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Andy D
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| posted on 10/9/09 at 09:28 AM |
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Darren, the racer's choice would appear to be a weber plus megajolt? (see pic) Dont think they have to worry about MOTs though.. 
I took these pics with you in mind a few weeks back. There were loads of Mini se7ens and Miglia at Croft.
If nowt else, it's a bit of inspiration. 
The single carb furmula (Mini se7en?)appear to use half a weber. 
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britishtrident
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| posted on 10/9/09 at 10:21 AM |
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I would advise yo keep the MEMS Spi it is a fairly good system, if you do ditch it the best alternative for road use is a single big SU using a Metro
manifold as the Metro manifold is very efficient
Twin carbs on Minis don't work that well they tend to give very uneven mixture distribution at low rpm, which is likely to lead to MOT
problems.
I have the Snap-On Blue point tool for setting up the MEMS SPI on Rovers it should also work on Minis --- if you want it you can have it for 20 quid
+ post
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DarrenW
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| posted on 10/9/09 at 10:34 AM |
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Thanks for replies.
Andy - ill have to get those pics off you. Some not opening due to laptop being rubbish. Shame i missed that meet - looks great.
BT - the current system is working. My main concern is car is getting a flip front (already half fitted) and if it rains there is no protection from
the elements to the electrical bits. Only reason for junking the bits is to make engine bay neater and remove the risk. However for budget and ease
reasons keeping it makes sense. Ill probs get car on the road first and think about engine mods later. Might be more sensible to enjoy car for a
couple of years then take it back off road to treat it to 16V power rather than waste money now.
Im interested in the tool you have but dont know what it is. Can you U2U me some details please? Money is tight at the mo due to job hunting so not
sure if i can get it off you straight away. Thanks for the offer though.
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 10/9/09 at 11:04 AM |
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If you are fitting a flip front make sure you add adequate bracing from the upper rear of the inner wings to the front of the subframe.
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DarrenW
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| posted on 10/9/09 at 11:29 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by MikeRJ
If you are fitting a flip front make sure you add adequate bracing from the upper rear of the inner wings to the front of the subframe.
Brace bars already fitted, probs bought items but look terrible. Am thinking of remaking them, along the lines of locost arms - ie bar with round tube
at each end and poly bushes, U brackets welded to bulkhead and subframe. Maybe even make them adjustable length. Ive seen some that were rose jointed
in this months mini World. See Andy's pics above too - the red car has a different arrangement.
The MEMS box must be the big one with a big multi plug in one end. Buy does it look huge and exposed. Wonder if i can relocate to the inside of the
car for a cleaner look??????
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DarrenW
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| posted on 10/9/09 at 11:39 AM |
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This is what im starting with. Well manky!
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/photos.php?action=showphoto&photo=8P1010026.JPG
ECU will re-route to inside of car - loads of wire already.
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 10/9/09 at 04:17 PM |
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Yep, those brace bars are next to useless, especially the one on the radiator side with the flimsy, unsupported strip of steel where it bolts to the
subframe. Both have bends in them as well.
I didn't know the SPI mini retained the distributor, that's a shame as removing it gives more room for a front mounted radiator which
significantly improves cooling, and would allow a straight run for the brace bar.
The older MEMS ECUs are monsters compared to more modern systems, it's amazing they actually managed to fit it in the engine bay!
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Canada EH!
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| posted on 10/9/09 at 05:00 PM |
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Having worked on a few racing Mini's in the 60's, I would suggest a 40 Weber and manifold, rally cam and a good header.
In those days we took the speedo out and put in an ali plate which allowed the Weber to sit with full velocity stacks (trumpets), but be prepared to
wear ear plugs, that Weber at part throttle will drive you nuts (drove a full race 970S to Mosport about 60 miles, not enough trailers).
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 10/9/09 at 05:04 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Canada EH!
but be prepared to wear ear plugs, that Weber at part throttle will drive you nuts (drove a full race 970S to Mosport about 60 miles, not enough
trailers).
Years ago my brother drove me to the 35th Mini anniversary at Silverstone in his mini that had a 45DCOE and an alloy box around the filter as you
describe, but it also had a straight cut gearbox and drop gears. It was a 450 mile round trip, and suffice to say my ears were literally ringing for
a couple of days after 
[Edited on 10/9/09 by MikeRJ]
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DarrenW
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| posted on 10/9/09 at 05:20 PM |
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I think the brace bars were bought from flip front supplier. I thought they looked crap too. Would be dead easy to remake along the lines of what
se7ens use (nice oval bar with round tube and poly bushes or rose joints in ends).
Might have to call in to Mac#1 some time and raid their steel stores.
MEMS ECU in the passenger compartment. Maybe even move all of the relays etc out of the engine bay.
Tidy up wiring with convoluted tube.
Weld up bulk head holes. etc etc and should have a nice engine bay again.
MEMS ECU - does anyone know if it powers up the dizzy or is the ignition stand alone? Hopefully standalone so that megajolt can be fitted.
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