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Author: Subject: Central Heating Advice
Surrey Dave

posted on 17/2/10 at 12:34 AM Reply With Quote
Central Heating Advice

my parents have a trianco oil fired boiler, it appears that the heating pipes run straight through the hot water tank without a thermostat or midway / diverter valve .

the result is very hot water

when i asked their plumber about it he said i would need an electrician ,to fit a thermostat to the tank, how can that be any use without the valve to switch hot water away from the tank ?






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trikerneil

posted on 17/2/10 at 05:33 AM Reply With Quote
Sounds pretty normal for an old-ish system.

Turn the boiler thermostat down.
When that is satisfied by the returning water the boiler will shut down.

Common practise to do it this way when I were a lad.

Neil





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BenB

posted on 17/2/10 at 08:27 AM Reply With Quote
Perhaps he was thinking of fitting a tank thermostat and running the boiler off that?
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Surrey Dave

posted on 17/2/10 at 08:32 AM Reply With Quote
Probably

Yes I think he was saying run the boiler from the tank thermostat, which sounds a bit daft to me , the heating and everything goes off when the water reaches say 60 degrees.
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r1_pete

posted on 17/2/10 at 09:29 AM Reply With Quote
A tank thermostat should control a motorised valve to shut the heating supply to the tank when temp is reached. If you shut the boiler off with that stat then the heating wont run when water is up to temperature.

If you go with a motor valve, make sure you have another bypass loop in the system, or you risk burning pumps out, i.e. when heating and water are up to temperature, both motor valves are closed, so the pump is working against a closed circuit.






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SeaBass

posted on 17/2/10 at 10:07 AM Reply With Quote
I presume your problem is that you only have one circuit in the house. ie no separate circuit through the tank and to the radiators.

I've just upgraded my central heating with a wireless room thermostat and did a fair bit of reading / re plumbing. My existing system had been invented by the installing plumber and was poor in terms of energy efficiency. As with your system the water used to get really hot but rooms weren't up to temperature. Luckily it was plumbed with two separate loops so just valves/wiring required.

See link here:

http://www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/forum1/central-heating-wiring-y-s-w-c-plan-switchmaster-change-t14921.html

What r1_pete is referring to is an "S-Plan" layout. If this is wired correctly there is no need for a bypass because the motor will only run when a valve is open (via the valve switch contacts).

Good luck.

JC

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tegwin

posted on 17/2/10 at 10:15 AM Reply With Quote
Or... thinking outside the box..

Fit thermostatic mixing valves to the hot taps to reduce the temperature to something more manageble?





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trikerneil

posted on 17/2/10 at 12:52 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by r1_pete
If you shut the boiler off with that stat then the heating wont run when water is up to temperature.


Ah but the room stat calls the pump for the rads and the cold return water causes the boiler stat to cut in and fire the boiler.

Neil





ACE Cafe - Just say No.

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craig_007

posted on 17/2/10 at 04:46 PM Reply With Quote
How about fitting a pipe stat,No need to fit zone valves with this just cut the pipe stat into the flow to the HWC and fit the phial about 1/3 way up from bottom of cylinder.

This is quite common on gravity HW systems.

Be aware though,I've fitted a few of these over the years and they are not cheap !!

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