eznfrank
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| posted on 24/6/10 at 09:22 AM |
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Any home heating engineers on here to help with online diagnostic?
I just wondered if anyone could possibly help me identify a problem with my boiler. Just for the record if it's anything gas related I
wouldn't touch it with a barge pole but at least if I can narrow it down I can avoid having my pants pulled down by a local contractor.
So the story is this:
One of the ring main fuses blew a few days ago, I think because the missus had every single appliance we own on the go.
Following that the boiler has been a bit dicky - the fuse in the boiler is a 3a and is ok.
When we run hot water the boiler will kick in but is very intermittent. Turning it off for 30 secs or so seems to reset it and get it going again but
only usually for a minute or two. It also seems to help if the boiler is in summer mode. if i switch the central heating on and then run a tap, it
just kills the boiler instantly?? I could be mistaken but I think when I switch it off there is a click similar to a thermostat but that may not be
associated to the problem at all.
I've followed the diagnostic flowchart but the current situation doesn't really seem to match anything on there. It's a Ravenheat
boiler if that makes much of a difference.
Any help greatly appreciated
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turbodisplay
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| posted on 24/6/10 at 09:44 AM |
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Have you loked at the divertor valve, it switches control of the heating or hot water. Normally the motor, but could be the micro switches inside.
Common failure.
Darren
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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BenB
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| posted on 24/6/10 at 10:03 AM |
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Sounds similar to a problem we had with our boiler. Was again the diverter valve....
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nick205
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| posted on 24/6/10 at 12:13 PM |
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As above, could be the diverter valve and if there's a fault with it that may be what tripped your ring main out too.
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Stott
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| posted on 24/6/10 at 12:54 PM |
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Could be the DHW heat exchanger is crudded up and going over temp as the water is travelling too slowly through it.
Is the boiler venting steam and making noises when the hot water goes off?
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eznfrank
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| posted on 24/6/10 at 01:39 PM |
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Cheers for the responses fellas - I've had a quick nosey on the net and there seem to be a few people with v.similar problem saying it was
divertor valve.
Stott - the boiler is not making any unusual noises or venting steam as far as I can tell.
Cheers
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bob tatt
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| posted on 24/6/10 at 02:58 PM |
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It's a Ravenheat boiler if that makes much of a difference.
see above for the problem best solution is the skip.
failing that it sounds like the diverter is sticking to me if you need it looking over let me know im not far away.
i think you know david goff as well small world eh.
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eznfrank
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| posted on 24/6/10 at 04:40 PM |
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Hi mate, yeah i know david he's my uncle. He sent me a link to your facebook profile but i couldn't see it. do you know him through work?
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bob tatt
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| posted on 24/6/10 at 05:57 PM |
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knew him from years ago got talking about cars my mate works in the garagge next to his shop and i was messing with the kit one day not seen him for
years. have to arrange a blast when you get on the road if you can keep up with the moped engine in yours..
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Stott
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| posted on 25/6/10 at 10:55 AM |
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If it's the divertor valve you can build up the push rod plastic end bit with multiple layers of tape so it still contacts the micro switch
when the flow starts to get you going untill you order the parts.
The push rod will be travelling out a lot when the flow first starts then backing off a little cos the diaphragm is holed, so building it up a little
will keep it in contact and get your hot water back on for the time being.
That's what I did on my Worcester 28cdi, the divertor valve repair kit was £11 IIRC from www.keeptheheaton.com and it took a couple of hours
pottering to fit it. Well worth it as the new valve assembly was £120 which is normally what a plumber will fit if you call one out.
HTH
Good Luck
Stott
EDIT:
As for my original reasoning, sometimes the DHW heat exchanger gets blocked a little and as the water flow is slowed, the difference in temp in and
temp out is too much and the boiler will fault out. On mine there are 2 sensors that will fault it out and then it'll vent the boiled water out
to the tank in the loft (gravity fed system). This problem was exasperated by running the heating the same time too as the boiler internals were
already hot, so it could be this still.
To sort this I just dismantled the boiler and reverse flushed the heat exchanger and realated components untill I was satisfied they were clean and
then reassembled it, this sorted it. If you live in a hard water area - use a descaler to clean and add inhibitor on refilling.
Your boiler may fault at a lower temp to mine though explaining why it doesn't need to vent the steam off.
[Edited on 25/6/10 by Stott]
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