mrwibble
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| posted on 22/7/10 at 11:45 AM |
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glazing my front door
hello!
my dearest brother broke my front door window months ago, after losing his keys whilst drunk one day i was away. I've got a supplier who
recommended laminate glass only down the road, its just over a 1m x 60cm and they are quoting £28. I was going to put it in myself.
So the procedure goes something like,
silicone sealant the frame,
show the glass up to the frame,
a couple of tacks or small screws into the frame
<---- ----->
<--- --->
to hold it, and then what? builders caulk?
whatever it is there is a lot of it!
any one done this before?
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liam.mccaffrey
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| posted on 22/7/10 at 12:13 PM |
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what type of door is it?
Do you have the glazing beads?
Are they wood/plastic?
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Peteff
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| posted on 22/7/10 at 02:52 PM |
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I use clear mastic to stick them in now. A thin bead round the frame and push the glass down onto it. You can put a few pins in to hold it but I
don't always bother if it's a small pane. Then quadrant beading mitred to length and stick that in with the same mastic and panel pin it
but not into the glass  ( I have seen someone try to nail it and have to buy another pane )
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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zilspeed
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| posted on 22/7/10 at 04:08 PM |
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If you're talking about using builders caulk to the front, that suggests there are no glazing beads, so we'll work on that basis.
You need a square edged chisel for this.
Spit on both hands before picking up some putty.
Warm the putty between your hands and works it for a few moments to ensure there are no lumps in it or excessive linseed oil.
Now run a bead of putty dressed into the glazing rebate on the vertical face all the way round.
Bed the glass in now.
Get some panel pins.
Using the side of the square edged chisel, tap the panel pins into place to temporarily hold the glass in place. Two a side should do.
Now the good bit.
The foreputty.
The putty must have no lumps and not be too oily. You also need a sharp chisel or putty knife with a good edge to it. No nicks, or these will show in
the finish.
You need to work the foreputty in such that it comes all the way to the front and all the way to the top of the rebate. There should be extra putty in
position at this point.
With the chisel - held at an angle where an imaginary line comes from ther bottom of the rebate to the top, "dress" the excess putty off
by pulling the chisel backwards smoothly. It helps if you spit on the chisel or putty knife first.
When you approach the end of a run, slowly withdraw the knife leaving a smooth 45 deg finish.
IF you're using glazing beads.
Ignore all of the above and fire it in with some silicon behind and in front of the glass. You do not need any panel pins to hold the glass in, just
the glazing beads bedded in silicon.
Use a toffee hammer to fix the glazing beads with panel pins.
Best of luck.
[Edited on 22/7/10 by zilspeed]
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mrwibble
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| posted on 22/7/10 at 04:39 PM |
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i knew someone would know on here!
i'm not sure what glazing beads are so heres a pic:
mr peteff your solution sounds the easiest...
many thanks for all replies
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arrow-engineering
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| posted on 22/7/10 at 06:52 PM |
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door
you have putty beading there, you have a few choices, but both involved chiselling off the old and tough putty, it sets like rock and you often end up
takin wood away with it.
anyway, the instructions for putty beadin have already been posted, or just get some wooden beading from diy shop and cut it to size with angles on
the corners
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arrow-engineering
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| posted on 22/7/10 at 06:52 PM |
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door
you have putty beading there, you have a few choices, but both involved chiselling off the old and tough putty, it sets like rock and you often end up
takin wood away with it.
anyway, the instructions for putty beadin have already been posted, or just get some wooden beading from diy shop and cut it to size with angles on
the corners
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