PSpirine
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| posted on 23/7/10 at 12:41 PM |
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Putting beams into garage
I've got a single car garage in a block of four across from my house. They've got a peaked roof, so there's plenty of space for a
loft.
Mine is one of the middle ones and the partition walls are made from what I would call cinder-blocks. Quite crumbly, concrete jobbies, and I imagine
they're hollow inside. (apologies for terminology, I'm originally from Cyprus).
Now I want to run beams across 2/3rds of the garage to have a loft to store bulky things (step-ladder access).
I can buy some 4x2 timber, that's not a problem. However, how do I mount them to the walls? I was thinking of getting a bracket that the beams
sit in, and they go into the wall with 4 bolts. Could use some M10 anchors?
My only concern is the fact that the concrete blocks may be somewhat fragile as they are hollow, and so it might not be a good idea to drill anything
bigger than a 6mm hole for hooks etc.
Anybody got any suggestions? I want to avoid having a frame going down to the ground (i.e. a piece of 2x2/4x2 wood standing vertical on which the
beams sit) as that eats into the already miniscule width of the garage.
Cheers
Pavs
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40inches
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| posted on 23/7/10 at 12:51 PM |
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These would be OK. You can
get them from Wickes or B&Q.
They hang from the top of the wall, only need pinning on, the joist itself stops them moving 
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PSpirine
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| posted on 23/7/10 at 12:52 PM |
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Ah. That's a problem. The block walls go all the way up to the top of the peak, there's nothing to hang off without drilling into the
wall.
And I don't want to run beams lengthways as that means they have to be like 5.5m long (and therefore fairly springy I'd imagine!)
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40inches
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| posted on 23/7/10 at 01:01 PM |
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Cut into the wall at mortar line, fit bracket into cut You can use a 4" angry grinder with masonry blade, if you are careful, or a plugging
cold chisel.
Here
[Edited on 23-7-10 by 40inches]
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PSpirine
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| posted on 23/7/10 at 01:20 PM |
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You, sir, are a genius.
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Canada EH!
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| posted on 23/7/10 at 02:09 PM |
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May I add, at the open edge of the new platform double up the 2X4's and use a 4" hanger. Adds a little more weight carrying and safety if
you forget how much stuff you have up there.
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40inches
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| posted on 23/7/10 at 03:34 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by Canada EH!
May I add, at the open edge of the new platform double up the 2X4's and use a 4" hanger. Adds a little more weight carrying and safety if
you forget how much stuff you have up there.
Good point! Never too old to learn 
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iank
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| posted on 23/7/10 at 03:44 PM |
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There is a guy in last months Complete Kitcar who built himself a similar storage area. He made his from second hand scaffolding which is a lot
quicker and easier - costs you 4 inches of width around the side uprights.
Might be a tad more expensive than 4x2's but you can take it with you or adjust it as you wish.
--
Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience.
Anonymous
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JoelP
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| posted on 23/7/10 at 07:18 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by 40inches
These would be OK. You can
get them from Wickes or B&Q.
They hang from the top of the wall, only need pinning on, the joist itself stops them moving
No way i would trust those not to bend if not screwed in properly, suppose it depends on what you mean by pinned though.
The block i refer to as 'cinder block' is not hollow and can be drilled fine. I would use a 7mm masonary bit or a 6.5mm normal bit if the
block proves soft enough. Then whack some brown plugs in tight.
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PSpirine
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| posted on 23/7/10 at 07:36 PM |
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Okay, having looked up the terminology in somewhat confusing detail.. it appears breeze block is the more appropriate term.
My only concern of drilling into it is if I put 2/4 holes in proximity in it, it's crumbly nature will mean that it'll crack between them
and the whole bloody garage would fall down
I don't know whether those joist brackets would bend as a 3mm slot cutout in the wall will mean they're a tight fit and won't be
able to bend upwards?
Any ideas on how far I should space the supports? Ideally looking to be able to put some MDF/ply flooring on there (not for walking/dancing, but just
to be able to crawl around getting useless junk in and out).
Cheers lads,
Pavs
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cliftyhanger
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| posted on 23/7/10 at 07:44 PM |
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Those joist hangers are VERY strong, they will not bend. Our lost conversion uses them, and I have some that hold an 8x2 beam used to lift engines
out. No problems at all.
As to flooring, for cheapness 18mm chipboard is ideal, maybe the green water resistant one in case of leaks, not a lot extra. MDF too bendy, ply great
but megabucks unless you can acquire some cheaply from a building site (they often use it to build temp enclosures, so a site that is being dismantled
may be a good place to try)
If you are intending to put anything meaningful up there then 400mm centres is good.
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