liam.mccaffrey
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| posted on 31/5/04 at 03:20 PM |
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joining brass?
i am making a model of a structure not too dissimilar from a locost spaceframe.
I am using 1/16" brass RHS.
What I want to know is the best way to join the parts, will soldering or brazing work?
I don't have a lot of experience, so I would like some advice
Liam
[Edited on 31/5/04 by liam.mccaffrey]
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flak monkey
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| posted on 31/5/04 at 03:31 PM |
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I have made model steam engines so maybe i can help...
It comes down to the strength you want. But you CANT braze it as brazing rod is brass (of one sort or another) and will melt at the same temp as your
work...
You can use normal soft solder (used for plumbing) with flux paste.
Or if you want extra strength you can silver solder. This requires a special flux (which you should be able to get from where ever you buy it).
I soft solder almost all of my engine parts, it is even good for boilers running at 30 odd psi. And its far easier than silver soldering!
Whatever you chose you need a good blow torch (plumbers ones are good!)
Hope that helps,
David 
Sera
http://www.motosera.com
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Hellfire
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| posted on 31/5/04 at 07:24 PM |
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We've soldered our own tee's using bits of pipe too. They've held together on our BEC. Remove traces of flux afterwards as I have
been told they are quite corrosive if left on (don't know how true it is).
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flak monkey
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| posted on 31/5/04 at 07:35 PM |
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The flux is corrosive, but different types vary. For instance 'Baker Fliud' is really nasty! But if you use one designed for use in
plumbing, then its water based and usually not too bad.
Hard to get off once its cooked with a blow torch, but you can attack it with a brass wire brush in a dremel or something.
Cheers,
David
Sera
http://www.motosera.com
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Mark Allanson
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| posted on 31/5/04 at 08:34 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by flak monkey
It comes down to the strength you want. But you CANT braze it as brazing rod is brass (of one sort or another) and will melt at the same temp as your
work...
David
Your'e right you cannot braze it, but you can weld it. Exactly the same rods and fluxes as for brazing, its just the name is different because
you are fuzing similar metals, notnot chemically attaching them. Its the strongest method if your design is not sleeved
If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 31/5/04 at 08:42 PM |
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Don't forget that a soft-soldered joint is only strong where there's a fairly large surface area in the joint - a butt joint
wouldn't work, but a lap joint would. If you can get some mechanical link then that would be even better (e.g. fold each side over 180 degrees,
then link each 'hook' together and knock it flat with a mallet).
There are varying degrees of hardness for soft solder - basic electrician's solder has the lowest melting point but is also the softest, then
plumbing solder which needs a big iron or a blowtorch, up to hard tin-lead solders like Comsol - not easy to find, but as strong as tin-lead solders
get.
For any real strength you really need silver solder, but that's a fair leap forward (special fluxes, heating to red-hot, expense, etc.).
David
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liam.mccaffrey
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| posted on 31/5/04 at 10:14 PM |
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what i am building is a spaceframe type structure exactly like a locost chassis but with 1/16" brass rhs
It doesn't have to be super strong as it is only a model. looks like soldering it is then, any tips?
what solder and flux to use that sort of thing?
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Mark Allanson
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| posted on 31/5/04 at 10:23 PM |
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if its just a model, electrical solder is much easier to heat and flow, its flux cored, and does not make a mess!
If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation
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andylancaster3000
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| posted on 31/5/04 at 10:25 PM |
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You use a blow torch, normal plumbing solder (you can also use electrical solder) and flux paste.
It shouldn't take long to heat the metal to melt soft solder. Make sure both parts are clean so jet a good joint.
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flak monkey
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| posted on 1/6/04 at 07:14 AM |
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I agree with Andy.
Plumbers solder and flux plaste, just take a trip to you local plumbers merchant or even Focus/Hombase.
Sera
http://www.motosera.com
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britishtrident
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| posted on 1/6/04 at 07:53 AM |
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You might want to use different melting points solders, do the main structure in high melting point then use lower melting point solders for bits
aded on as it nears completion --- that way you reduce he risk of melting joints you have already made --- raddiator repair solder is low melting
point for this reason.
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Peteff
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| posted on 1/6/04 at 10:52 AM |
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My wife makes stuff for her dollhouses using similar materials. She joins thin stuff similar to yours with electrical flux cored solder using a 12
volt soldering iron and they hold together quite succesfully.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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stephen_gusterson
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| posted on 1/6/04 at 10:55 AM |
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does she have a tiny locost in the tiny garage?
This is a straight question, and not any form of inuendo,,,,,,
atb
steve
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Peteff
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| posted on 1/6/04 at 11:10 AM |
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No garages on the houses she builds Steve.
http://www.homestead.com/brensdollhouses/
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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