dhutch
|
| posted on 8/2/11 at 12:50 PM |
|
|
Retro fitting a solid fuel stove, ball park costs and flu rooting.
Had anyone had a solid fuel stove fitted to a 60-70's build with no existing chimney?
I guess you have the option to either go up, through a bedroom and out of the roof (box in bedroom, cost of roof mods)
Or you go upto the ceiling, then along, out of the wall, and up the back of the house. (less idea flu root, more cost for bends etc)
Its not something thats in the pipe line this side of christmas but im just wondering, are we talking a few hundred or a grand or so?
Daniel
|
|
|
|
|
nick205
|
| posted on 8/2/11 at 01:18 PM |
|
|
Been wondering the same myself recently - 70's house with no chimney or other flue system.
Going up and out at ground floor ceiling level, then up the outside of the house has to be the easiest I think - far less making good to do afterwards
and no breach of the roof construction.
|
|
|
cliftyhanger
|
| posted on 8/2/11 at 01:49 PM |
|
|
A friend recently got a solid fuel stove off the bay. Waaaay cheaper than anywhere else at under £200. Add the chimney bits et and that is more dosh,
but can be done for not a lot. His was in a barn conversion. I felt a little vulnerable perched on toptoe on the platform of a stepladder trying to
hold the chimney in place while another chap was on the roof shoving the twin walled sections down. Out at room level seems a better idea! Remember
the chimney radiates a lot of heat, and plan how it will be swept.
|
|
|
David Jenkins
|
| posted on 8/2/11 at 05:56 PM |
|
|
Had this done last year... late 60s house with no chimney. I had a double-wall stainless steel external flue fitted.
You will have to budget for:
* The stove - you get what you pay for... there are a lot of cheap stoves out there, most of which are very poor quality. I bought a Clearview - not
cheap, but build quality is excellent (it weighs twice as much as the equivalent general brand).
* The flue - budget for approx £200 per metre height, installed. Note that the building regs specify the distance from the flue to inflammable
materials such as the eaves, and the space varies according to the quality of the flue insulation. Good flue is 50mm spacing, cheap flue is 100+mm.
This makes a difference when trying to fit it!
* The hearth - building regs stipulate the size and thickness required depending on the floor it will sit on (about 25mm on concrete, a lot more on a
wood floor).
* If the stove has a nominal heat output >5KW then you will need to budget for a ventilation brick (but 5KW is pretty hot!).
Incidental costs:
* Somewhere to store your logs - ours get delivered 1 ton at a time, about 2 cu. metres, so you need somewhere sheltered and airy to keep them. I got
a log store from a local shed place for just over £100 (but it's really solid!).
* Redecoration - a large hole will be knocked through the wall, so you'll have to repaint the wall as a minimum. It cost me a lot more, as we
decided that we should change the wall colour, which meant new carpet (the old one was worn out anyway), and new furniture (the old sofa was tired,
and no longer fitted as it used to go along the wall where the stove now lives).
As for installation:
You could do it yourself, but the building regs are quite involved.
You could get a general builder to do it.
Both of these will involve a visit from building inspectors.
Or you can have it fitted by a HETAS installer, who give you a certificate at the end - no inspection required.
If you don't install it according to regs you can expect major grief when you try to sell the house (it's regarded as a major alteration),
or if something goes wrong later on (e.g. a house fire) and you have to claim off insurance.
[Edited on 8/2/11 by David Jenkins]
|
|
|
dhutch
|
| posted on 12/2/11 at 11:08 PM |
|
|
Sounds fair enough, had a bit a look round based on that, the cost of the flu seems astronomical!
Im still hoping to wind up with a house with chimney and just have a nice open coal grate but if the right house turns up without for the right money
its a good option.
Daniel
|
|
|
David Jenkins
|
| posted on 13/2/11 at 09:58 AM |
|
|
If you end up with a chimney you can still fit a wood-burner - massively cheaper than fitting a new flue (a chimney liner and a bit of ironwork is
probably all that would be needed), unlikely to involve building inspectors, and an increase in efficiency from <25% to 80% or greater (i.e. more
heat from your fuel goes into the room).
BTW: StovesOnLine is a great site for random stove-related information!
|
|
|
dhutch
|
| posted on 14/2/11 at 12:27 PM |
|
|
I know that an multi fuel stove is a more effeicent way of burning either wood or coal but i do like an open fire!
The main purpose of the fire will be for my own enjoyment, as well as a method of boosting the temp of the one room quickly. The majorty of the
heating will be via gas boiler.
Daniel
|
|
|
