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Author: Subject: Trianco Gas Boiler
Hellfire

posted on 16/2/12 at 07:06 PM Reply With Quote
Trianco Gas Boiler

Any central heating engineers in the house? My gas boiler, which has been working fine until today, has stopped and won't start up. The pilot light has gone out and when I try to reset the boiler it clicks once but doesn't go though the process of lighting the pilot and igniting the burners. My other gas appliances are fine, so I don't think it's a problem with the gas supply.

The boiler is a Trianco Tristar 60F and is quite old (about 18 years), used to be regularly serviced (probably hasn't been serviced for a couple of years now) and usually works fine.

Any ideas?

Phil

[Edited on 16-2-12 by Hellfire]






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Ninehigh

posted on 16/2/12 at 07:38 PM Reply With Quote
I wouldn't know anything about it really, but maybe it needs a good cleaning? Can you hear any gas coming through?






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Ben_Copeland

posted on 16/2/12 at 07:49 PM Reply With Quote
Usually the thermocouple. Ours is the same, but not as old as yours...

I find giving the ignitor a bang, then pushing the ignitor button rapidly up to about 10 times gets it going....





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MkIndy7

posted on 16/2/12 at 08:21 PM Reply With Quote
From your description it sounds like its auto igniton and its not lighting and locking out.

If you have a good spark and it doesn't light theres likely to be no gas getting though as if the pilot jet is blocked.

If it sparks, lights the pilot and then goes off then it's a flame sensor fault (too small a pilot flame, tired probe, damaged lead, control box fault etc)

There the most likely simple faults, if it doesnt even attempt to light then it's likely a safety device.
Low water pressure, fan not making air switch, p.c.b etc

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Hellfire

posted on 16/2/12 at 09:52 PM Reply With Quote
Just removed the cover and it appears the small plastic fan (which fits externally on the fan assembly) has become brittle, split and had fallen off. Triedto reset the boiler again and it went through the auto ignition process, fired up and now appears to be working again, even though I haven't refitted the small plastic fan. I can only assume the small plastic fan is there to cool the power pack? and it had overheated (although the overheat button on the boiler hadn't popped out). I've superglued the plastic fan back together and will refit it, if/when the boiler stops working again.....

Phil






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Hellfire

posted on 16/2/12 at 09:58 PM Reply With Quote
My fan assembly looks similar to the one below. What is the part called that the small plastic fan is keeping cool?








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big-vee-twin

posted on 16/2/12 at 10:26 PM Reply With Quote
Isn't that the fan that blows the combustion gasses out through the flue. The little plastic fan cools the motor.





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craig1410

posted on 16/2/12 at 11:57 PM Reply With Quote
My guess is that it's your air pressure switch. It senses the tiny amount of air pressure caused by the flue fan. It'll have some silicon hoses connected to it if it's similar to mine. It was an easy fix - I just bought a new one and connected it up to the hoses and wires. Cost me about £20 IIRC.

The symptoms of my problem was that the boiler started to spin up the fan and then just when I was expecting to hear the ignitor firing (click - click - click - whoosh) it powered down. Sometimes thumping the cabinet would trip the air switch but this 'fix' only worked for a short time before it failed completely.

HTH,
Craig.

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MkIndy7

posted on 17/2/12 at 12:08 AM Reply With Quote
Yup the little plastic fan only cools the motor, it'll probably run fine without.

It still sounds like there's likely to be a deeper issue tho.

If it fails again and refuses to start or wont go as far as the ignition phase it's likely to be air switch related.
Easily found by following the Silicone hoses from the flue fan.
Usually blow the hoses out as a first measure, some also have little plastic trumpets in the airflow that the hoses connect to that crumble over time and are easily replaced.

Another symptom of airflow switch faults if it the boiler will fire with a corner of the room sealed case edged open or the cover removed as it finds it easier for the fan to make the air pressure switch.. * But this must only be used for testing!

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Hellfire

posted on 17/2/12 at 12:55 PM Reply With Quote
Cheers guys! If it fails to start again, the next place I'll look will be the air pressure switch....

Phil






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