Simon
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| posted on 3/3/13 at 07:45 PM |
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Replacing floor (in bathroom)
Chaps,
We've knocked our old bathroom and loo into one room (ie taken out the wall betwixt).
Trouble is, where the old bathroom floor (traditional planking) has got wet, it swelled in places, then where the floor has been lifted for pipe
access it's turned into a bit of a disaster area.
So, I'm replacing it with new sheet (18mm chipboard, to be covered with quality lino). The trouble I have is, part of the old floor goes under a
partitioning wall which I really don't want to take down. There is a joist under wall which I need to get to.
My q is, is there an easy way is cutting out the old floor under the wall and onto the joist or should I cut back as far and neatly as possible, then
screw a second piece of wood against the old joist for the new floor to rest on.
There won't be a big weight loading on it as there's a towel rail above so anyone standing near will be standing on the next joist out.
Cheers very much for your insights
ATB
Simon
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John P
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| posted on 3/3/13 at 08:01 PM |
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If it were me I'd do as you suggest and screw another length of timber to the existing joist or perhaps you could screw timber to timber joist
hangers to the existing (http://www.wickes.co.uk/invt/214933).
I'd tend to use exterior plywood in a bathroom although I know you can get water resistant chipboard.
John.
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Peter Cowley
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| posted on 3/3/13 at 08:26 PM |
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Get yourself a bosch multitool PMF180 or fein multimaster..
You can cut the old floor out right upto to the adjoining wall, screw in some new wood, then re-lay the new floor.
This is the best tool i have got in my garage !!
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JoelP
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| posted on 3/3/13 at 09:36 PM |
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Id cut it close and add a baton. If you use chipboard, make sure it is moisture resistant (though in truth it isnt much better). I lay the lino from
side to side, tuck it over a baton behind the bath panel, and up behind the skirting boards too. This should prevent any water getting under it even
if you are careless. Water that does seep under lino cannot evapourate easily.
Beware! Bourettes is binfectious.
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Simon
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| posted on 3/3/13 at 10:29 PM |
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Joel,
Plan for new floor is to do what we did in the other bathroom - lino right up to edge, skirting board down nice and tight to lino then silicon the
join.
Pete,
Nice bit of kit - my neighbour has one which I borrowed, but for that money I'll drill instead
Cheers all
ATB
Simon
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macc man
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| posted on 3/3/13 at 10:38 PM |
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I would use 18mm exterior plywood, does not cost that much more and is ideal for a bathroom floor. As said cut close to wall and fit a 3x2 batton
fixed to wall or joists and screw to existing floor. This as it happens is my job for tuesday.
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loggyboy
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| posted on 3/3/13 at 10:47 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by macc man
I would use 18mm exterior plywood, does not cost that much more and is ideal for a bathroom floor. As said cut close to wall and fit a 3x2 batton
fixed to wall or joists and screw to existing floor. This as it happens is my job for tuesday.
Yes, ply would be much better (allthough they do flooring grade ply too.). Even well covered, water can find its way to the chipboard, either by
condensation or an unexpected leak. Soggy solen chipboard is not good!
Ps, is this the last job from the extension? Hows it all looking now?
[Edited on 3-3-13 by loggyboy]
Mistral Motorsport
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skodaman
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| posted on 4/3/13 at 03:15 AM |
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Even treated chipboard isn't much good if it gets wet.
Skodaman
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Barkalarr
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| posted on 4/3/13 at 07:40 AM |
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I believe either Lidl or Aldi (can't remember which) have a floorboard saw on offer at the moment for something daft like £20.
This will cut your boards nice and close - beware the blades don't last long
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motorcycle_mayhem
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| posted on 4/3/13 at 10:58 AM |
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In my previous home I did exactly as you are planning, screwed another joist in front of the existing. No problem.
My reason (at the time) for doing a bathroom strip was that the previous owner had allowed many years of shower effluent to exit under the floor to
the substrata underneath...... one helluva mess, rot, smell of death.
Current bathroom has just had it's dividing wall removed (must be the season for it). Lots of old leaking pipes buried in the concrete (not
suspended wood) floor have made a mess, along with the wall residue. I've repaired all this, it's now all stable, if messy, ready for the
latex screed. Never used this latex stuff before, so should be fun..... !
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JoelP
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| posted on 4/3/13 at 08:08 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by motorcycle_mayhem
In my previous home I did exactly as you are planning, screwed another joist in front of the existing. No problem.
My reason (at the time) for doing a bathroom strip was that the previous owner had allowed many years of shower effluent to exit under the floor to
the substrata underneath...... one helluva mess, rot, smell of death.
Current bathroom has just had it's dividing wall removed (must be the season for it). Lots of old leaking pipes buried in the concrete (not
suspended wood) floor have made a mess, along with the wall residue. I've repaired all this, it's now all stable, if messy, ready for the
latex screed. Never used this latex stuff before, so should be fun..... !
PVA first, and remember its self smoothing, not self levelling! You need to spread it out well.
Beware! Bourettes is binfectious.
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Simon
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| posted on 4/3/13 at 09:29 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by loggyboy
Ps, is this the last job from the extension? Hows it all looking now?
[Edited on 3-3-13 by loggyboy]
David,
Very nearly the end of the first bit
I'm not allowed to get the garage ext done till the old bathroom is done - fortunately I got two sets of loos and sinks so the second set is
ready to go, just get the floor down, get the plasterboard boxing around soil pipes etc and get plasterer in, the out the front and dig some footing,
get the concrete in, then a brickie, then the chippy, and the roofer.
Might delay the downstairs loo for the mo as it'll mean big hole in path and garden - wife wouldn't be impressed if I said we were gonna
gig up the kitchen floor!
Then the drive comes up for block paving.
Should all be done by end March, maybe July
Looking good. Builder was so much better than the cowboys that did similar job next door
Cheers
Simon
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