Simon
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| posted on 28/3/05 at 10:01 PM |
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TV problem????
Peeps,
We have an intermittent fault with our tv.
Symptoms are - you can be watching a normal picture when it starts getting redder with red lines running through screen. Sometimes it flicks itself
back to normal, sometimes the red channel then disappears and we watch a picture with no red.
I know there are one or two out there who are quite well versed in things electrical, anyone got any suggestions?
BTW - giving it a whack doesn't work - I've tried it
Thanks
ATB
Simon
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JoelP
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| posted on 28/3/05 at 10:05 PM |
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its either the flux capacitor or the phase-shift inhibitor
sorry.
how old is the telly?
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Hellfire
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| posted on 28/3/05 at 10:19 PM |
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It's been a while since I mended tellies.
Sounds very much like the Red Photon thingy, not the Blue or the Green.... New ones are only designed to last 5 years. Technology means they are more
accurate at hitting it too...
Bin it - buy a newer one.
[Edited on 28-3-05 by Hellfire]
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ReMan
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| posted on 28/3/05 at 10:21 PM |
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Quite possibly dry joints (aged and broken soldered joints).
Take the rear panel off and check the connector on the back of the main picture tube first, a ring of about a dozen pins, wires too, look very closely
at the pins onto the board at the solder and resolder if any lok suspect.
After that depending how much you can take out, i`d check the other boards, look particularly at the joints where any large heavy components join the
board and also for any signs of heat damage around other components and their joints.
Dont forget to unplug it first.
Dont forget even with it unplugged there can be 30000 volts waiting to bite
If your not comfortable with any of this, take it to a telly man and dont touch it!
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Peteff
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| posted on 28/3/05 at 10:42 PM |
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Can you get it degaussed? Burns the phosphor off the guns, modern ones do it at switch on usually.
http://www.penders.cwc.net/otcolour.html
Tubes are usually guaranteed for 3 years so it's worth looking at if it's not too old.
It's not a Philips is it?
http://www.avforums.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-13434.html
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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Simon
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| posted on 28/3/05 at 11:16 PM |
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Cheers chaps,
It's about 7 years old, and strangely enough only starting mucking around about a month before the (5 year) warranty ran out. We didn't
make a claim cos if we did, we wouldn't have got the warranty money back (£250).
Anyway, seems ok at the mo.
ATB
Simon
PS Pete, no it's a t,t,t,toshiba. N'other on to avoid in the future!
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chunkielad
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| posted on 28/3/05 at 11:36 PM |
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Red gun is dead mate. Not worth fixing. Use the £250 you got off the warranty to buy a new one and don't bother with the extended warranty - bag
of sh!te!!!
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 29/3/05 at 11:09 AM |
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As above - give up and buy another one. You'll find the new ones both cheaper and better. The only other option is to take it to one of those
little back-street TV repair shops and ask him whether it's a "fix or bin" job - set a limit on the money you want to spend, in case
he gets carried away, i.e. "if you can fix it for less than £30 do so, otherwise I'll bin it".
Pete - it only needs degaussing if the screens got blotchy colours in the corners, or gone patchy. The process removed the residual magnetism from
the perforated plate behind the screen glass.
David
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Snuggs
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| posted on 29/3/05 at 12:07 PM |
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I agree with ReMan.
Red gun cant be dead or it wouldn't work at all.
99.9% of intermitant problems are caused by dry joints and the board that plugs on to the tube are very susceptible.
10 mins with a soldering iron should fix it.
Clive
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.topcashback.co.uk/ref/snuggstcb
Spider pig, spider pig, does whatever a spider pig does.
I doubt therefore I may be.
Luposlipophobia : Fear of being chased by wolves around a freshly waxed kitchen floor, while wearing only socks on your feet.
My mind not only wanders, sometimes it leaves completely!
http://www.venganza.org
http://www.jesusandmo.net/
http://www.snuggs.co.uk
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Dale
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| posted on 29/3/05 at 03:27 PM |
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Agreement with the cold/dry solder joint. You may get lucky with just resoldering a bunch of the joints - very hard too tell as the common spots are
likely under a capped shield. Your average TV life expectancy is now around 8 years and although it looks good- if you put it beside a new one that
cost half what you paid for it, the picture and brightness of the new one will be very noticable.
Dale
Thanks
Dale
my 14 and11 year old boys 22
and 19 now want to drive but have to be 25 before insurance will allow. Finally on the road
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Marcus
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| posted on 29/3/05 at 08:21 PM |
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A vote for the red gun here. Sometimes they get clogged up and a tap on the tube base can clear it. Those so called recon tubes have a high voltage
put through them which blasts any residue off the gun. Flyback lines can only be due to the very high voltage from the line output transformer. This
doesn't go onto the tube base. Could be a combination of LOPTX and dry joint/component failure though.
Marcus
Marcus
Because kits are for girls!!
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stephen_gusterson
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| posted on 29/3/05 at 08:46 PM |
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was it made by rover?
atb
steve
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craig1410
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| posted on 29/3/05 at 10:12 PM |
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Simon,
I've fixed loads of TV's and monitors with this sort of problem. It's almost always either the solder joints on the tube neck or the
Line Output Transformer (LOT). Just solder (properly) the larger connections on the tube neck panel, especially the ones arranged in a partial circle.
Then solder the LOT connections which can usually be found on the main circuit board. It is the large transformer with the high voltage wire coming
off it and going up to the tube.
Dry joints can often (not always) be seen as a distinct circle in the middle of the solder fillet half way between the pin of the component and the
edge of the solder joint.
Be very careful that you don't fry yourself and if in doubt then leave well alone. In my experience the large capacitors (often black cans about
50mm tall and 25mm diameter and rated at around 400 Volts) are the biggest threat as they really give you a belt if you touch them, even with the
power off. I usually leave the monitor disconnected for an hour or two before "surgery" to let the capacitors discharge but even so, keep
fingers clear of the circuit boards if poss.
Cheers,
Craig.
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