Chris_R
|
| posted on 27/8/05 at 10:11 AM |
|
|
Remote central locking
Morning all.
Yesterday I fitted a Sigma M4 alarm to my 93 Golf GTi and on the whole things went quite well. The diagrams provided allowed me to identify all of the
connections and I eventually figured out where to put them, with a few exceptions. So far I have the Ultrasonics fitted, the siren, the door trigger
and the bonnet trigger, but there's also the option to wire in the central locking and the total closeure, this is where I'm stuck.
I've asked about and have identified two wire's in the drivers footwell, one green and one grey, that are supposed to control the central
locking. I have yet to identify the control for the total closure.
The system uses a vaccum pump and pnumatic actuators, does anyone have any idea what I should do next?
Incidently the alarm provides two negative outputs to control the central locking, I'm yet to identify which locks and which unlocks.
A bit of slapstick never hurt anyone.
http://www.chris.renney.dsl.pipex.com/
|
|
|
|
|
Ian Pearson
|
| posted on 27/8/05 at 10:19 AM |
|
|
I have a 92 Passat, and was told that due to the vacuum central locking system, I would have to buy an electronic actuator in order to get the
central locking feature of the alarm system to work.
|
|
|
Chris_R
|
| posted on 27/8/05 at 10:25 AM |
|
|
I had considered that, but I have been told that it can be done as the pump is electronically opperated. it's also had an alarm system fitted
before that used the wires I was told about.
A bit of slapstick never hurt anyone.
http://www.chris.renney.dsl.pipex.com/
|
|
|
JonBowden
|
| posted on 28/8/05 at 09:00 AM |
|
|
Chris,
I'm not sure if this helps. On my '95 Audi A6 (which I assume is similar), all the doors can be locked using the key in the drivers door.
This works (I think by a microswitch on the door lock - could this be used ?
Jon
|
|
|
Chris_R
|
| posted on 28/8/05 at 12:44 PM |
|
|
Cheers for the responces guys, I think I've found an answer. The two wires in the driver kick are 12V+ lock and unlock and the two wires left on
the alarm are 12V- lock and unlock, each with a 1 sec pulse that can either be increased or decreased via a keypad connected to the alarms ECU. It
should just be a case of converting the + to the - using a relay in the configuration shown here:
http://www.the12volt.com/relays/page1.asp#n2p
I haven't connected it up yet, but I'm gonna give it a go shortly. I'll let you know what the result is when I have.
Thanks again.
A bit of slapstick never hurt anyone.
http://www.chris.renney.dsl.pipex.com/
|
|
|
Chris_R
|
| posted on 28/8/05 at 12:48 PM |
|
|
Or this one on a different wire if that doesn't work:
http://www.the12volt.com/doorlocks/page3.asp#vac#
[Edited on 28/8/05 by Chris_R]
A bit of slapstick never hurt anyone.
http://www.chris.renney.dsl.pipex.com/
|
|
|
Chris_R
|
| posted on 28/8/05 at 05:40 PM |
|
|
Solution number one does the trick. I can now get the doors to unlock on disarming, but there's a fault with the alarms ECU and it wont lock on
arming. A replacement is on it's way and the next step is remote total closure.
Thanks again guys.
A bit of slapstick never hurt anyone.
http://www.chris.renney.dsl.pipex.com/
|
|
|
