I'm running EDIS and I'm a bit confused about it.
^In this pic the numbers are as they are labelled on my EDIS unit
It's the coil stuff that I don't understand.
I'm so close to starting my engine for the first time. Fueling is now sorted and I'm getting strong sparks. I think I have the firing order
wrong though
I'm running EDIS and I'm a bit confused about it.
^In this pic the numbers are as they are labelled on my EDIS unit
It's the coil stuff that I don't understand.
quote:
6 cylinder (EDIS6):
On a 6 cylinder engine, the coils in a 6 terminal pack fire ACB (with ABC left to right with the connector on the bottom). Coil A fires first and should be connected to cylinder #1 and its complimentary cylinder. The coil C should be connected to the cylinder that fires after #1, and its complimentary cylinder. The remaining two cylinders should be connected to coil B.
For example, with a 6 cylinder having a firing order of 123456 (GM 60° V6), you would connect coil A to 1&4, coil C to 2&5, coil B to 3&6.
On EDIS6, coil A is connected to pin 10 of the EDIS module, coil B is connected to pin 11 of the EDIS module, and coil C is connected to pin 12 of the EDIS module. If these are connected the other way around, the coils will fire in a different order, and the spark plug wires will need to be rearranged.
The EDIS is paired as well I believe so in your picture 1&5, 2&6, 3&4 will fire when the get a signal from a, b or c (in whatever order
you wire it).
You need to work out which are the complementary pairs in your firing order and the use the edis pairs as needed...
Sorry, doing this from memory as don't have the books with me at the moment...
HTH
I found this a while ago:
http://caunter.ca/volvo960/oc14811.pdf
quite usefull info.
Very little on the web about your engine but this pdf looks like your info is ok.
Just to add the numbers on the coil pack are off the cyl numbers not the firing order.
My mate made this mistake when we where wiring his vw.
Its just a case of finding the pairs.
I would try A) 1+6 b) 5+2 C) 3+4
quote:
Originally posted by big_wasa
Just to add the numbers on the coil pack are off the cyl numbers not the firing order.
Cant help with your problem but good luck with the start 
Are you going to video it?
quote:
Originally posted by speedyxjs
Cant help with your problem but good luck with the start
Are you going to video it?
Pairs,
Its a wasted spark set up so will fire two cylinders at once one on the compresion stroke and the other on the exhaust stroke, hence wasted spark.
So there will be two cylinders that will be at tdc at any one time.
There is an 850 in my local scrapie with a B6304, tempting but it looks huge in the volvo so, 
One on ebay for £200 so thats less than £1 per bhp 
The "pairs" are as shown on the coil pack, so 4 & 3 will fire together, 6 & 2 likewise, and the same for 5 & 1, hope that makes sense. Cheers Ray
Assuming you order 1-5-3-6-2-4
is correct the cylinder pairs are:
1,6
5,2
3,4
Edis 6 firing order from memory i THINK is ACB. It was 2 years ago i did this so not sure if that is correct.
A fires when edis sees tdc - (SAW advance) for cylinder1
Darren
[Edited on 16/11/08 by turbodisplay]
quote:
Originally posted by turbodisplay
Assuming you order 1-5-3-6-2-4
is correct the cylinder pairs are:
1,6
5,2
3,4
Edis 6 firing order from memory i THINK is ACB. It was 2 years ago i did this so not sure if that is correct.
A fires when edis sees tdc - (SAW advance) for cylinder1
Darren
quote:
Originally posted by big_wasa
So there will be two cylinders that will be at tdc at any one time.
quote:
Originally posted by Chippy
The "pairs" are as shown on the coil pack
1&6 coil A, 5&2 coil B, 3&4 coil C
Working on ACB I woul say yes
Edis info
I recon the order should be from checking the above url
Coil pair : CYLINDERS : Edis module pin no.
A 1,6 10
B 3,4 11
C 5,2 12
Darren
[Edited on 16/11/08 by turbodisplay]
So like this:
http://img505.imageshack.us/img505/2189/edis1172154540pr4.jpg
Thanks what i recon. I have edited my post to correct the edis pin numbering/ coil letter
coil A is pin 10, coil B pin 11, coil C is pin 12.
Look at the link to check, near the bottom for edis fitting to confirm what i think.
I successfully wired my edis up the first time so order ACB is confirmed.
Darren
Thanks for all the replies so far everyone!
I've just nipped into the garage and in this pic:
The little connector with 1 2 3 4 on it I've just realised I've got wired incorrectly. In the diagram where 4 is the earth/ground I have
that as a coil and I have pin 1 as the ground. But pin 4 is thicker wire, and 1,2 &3 are all the same thickness :/ why is that? How would this
effect the ignition etc? I'm off for sunday dinner now so I can't look at it again for a couple of hours!
No earth for the coil, it goes to positive supply. Connecting to earh gives no output.
Darren
One thing to bear in mind - as long as the cylinder pairings are correct , the actual firing order is irrelevant
And as has been said - there is no earth on the coil , just three inputs from the Edis and a `switched 12v` from the ignition .
Ok ignore that 
but according to the diagram I haven't wired it up right.
Note the big and the small tabs on this connector
According to the tabs (and this is the same on another diagram I've seen) I have it the wrong way round. So I have the switched live going to
pin 1 and pins 2,3 & 4 going to the coils. I'm still getting sparks, i think on all plugs... so will the coil order be messed up
because of this connector's wiring?
Yep!
Do a bit of cut and shut on the wiring and make sure to use the capacitor off 4 to ground... (shown at the edge of your piccy)
tea we want to see it running
is it running yet ?
no b6304 came in the 850 - only 960 and S80 btw .
quote:
Originally posted by Volvorsport
is it running yet ?
I think i'll just dump it in the north sea What is the history if this engine, and what fuel system are you going to use? Why do you thing that there is something wrong with the engine?
Engine bought from ebay and stripped down & checked. Bores looked great, reassembled but didn't check the cylinder head (cleaned and
inspected the combustion chamber but didn't remove any valves)
I seem to remember having the engine assembled (minus the cylinder head) on the engine stand and turning it over by hand then and it being a quite
stiff ( i just thought it's bound to be stiffer than the pinto as there are two more cylinders) But how stiff is stiff? I just don't have
the experience in engine building to know when something isn't right etc.
When I have the spark plugs out the engine spins over but does struggle slightly. When the plugs are back in it really struggles so there must be
something wrong. Valves/cams and/or crankshaft? T_T
Also to add, I have a spare cylinder head that I'm taking apart at the moment (v.cheap on ebay so thought I'd have a go at removing all the
valves, new seals, light porting etc) as it was so cheap to have a spare (came with cams too)
I guess one way to check how much effect the cylinder head is having on cranking is to take it off or remove the cam belt.
[Edited on 17/11/08 by Benzine]
Did you renew any of the crank bearings?... Without heads the engine should turn over easily by hand unless you've put in new shells and even
then only slightly stiffer.
Worst case, warped crank and a visit to the North sea, slightly better case a binding bearing (regrind and new oversize shells), best case something
obvious I can't think of but one of the guys will...
I didn't renew any shells/bearing as it all looked like it was in good order (the engine had a lot of money spent on it within the last year of it being in the original car) What would happen if the bearings/shells were put iun different places to where they were originally? i.e. they all got mixed up... I'm having serious doubts that I didn't keep them all organised... T_T
quote:
no b6304 came in the 850 - only 960 and S80 btw .
quote:
Originally posted by Benzine
When I have the spark plugs out the engine spins over but does struggle slightly. When the plugs are back in it really struggles so there must be something wrong. Valves/cams and/or crankshaft? T_T
quote:
Originally posted by mr henderson
The question is, how difficult? Do you have a torque wrench, you can use that to measure the turnng torque (which you need to measure with the plugs OUT)
Are you using the original injection set up?
And that is with the plugs out? Just to be clear.
you mentioned you 'may' have mixed the shell bearings up - im pretty sure this is a bad thing especially if the engine has done a few miles
and the wear patterns are different along the length of the crank. However if the have recently been changed and they are all the same size (and crank
was ground so all journals are same size) then you 'may' get away with it.
Id be tempted to just go ahead and try to get it fired up first before fearing the worst. Then at least worst case if you have to bung another lump in
everything else is ready. I really doubt you would have mixed the shells - you always sound to be good at the spannering, hopefully just one of those
moments where you are doubting yourself.
As Mr H says - is it as tight as with plugs in or out. If out - doesnt sound good. If in - might suggest good compression.
That's with the plugs out T_T
when you split the head , how did you clean the two halves ?
under no circumstance should you have used emery paper or rubbed them back to clean them (only scrape/dissolve the liquid gasket)
you can get them tight , since its happened to me when i got supplied two cleaned up parts of cylinder head , put the together engine was a right
barsteward to turn over , theres no other way of checking tho .
take the cam belt off - and release the top off the cylinder head and take the cams out .
turn it over - if its easy , i suggest its something like that - if its still tight - i suggest another engine to be quickest route , plus you may not
have the cams timed up properly either .
and keeping cranking while theres no oil pressure and dry bearings isnt a good idea either .