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Oils?
chris_smith - 12/1/09 at 10:38 AM

hi guys/gals just a quick one really, im running or will be shortly a xflow 1300, type 9 box and mk1 axle, can you all please let me know the best oils for each in your experiences
and where is best to get them from with costs if possible

best regards
chris


BenB - 12/1/09 at 10:59 AM

The cheapest cos you're going to get through a lot of it with a Xflow (total loss oil system and all that ).
Get something fairly cheap and sticky. A modern oil will not offer the proper protection and will go all over the engine bay even quicker!!!


Mr Whippy - 12/1/09 at 11:05 AM

I only use GTX Magnatec 15W-40 on the normal cars


andylancaster3000 - 12/1/09 at 11:06 AM

I would say your best bet would be a good quality 20w50 in an engine of that era. A good place to start is with the valvoline 20w50 VR1 mineral stuff. Very good oil IMO, always seems to maintain a good pressure how ever hot it gets. It's also a reasonable price considering what you get charged for other 'racing' oils.

Having said that I've only used it in a CVH so it might be best to see what other x-flow owners use!

[Edited on 12/1/09 by andylancaster3000]


britishtrident - 12/1/09 at 11:27 AM

10w/40 especially for winter use
20w/50 causes starting problems with Xflos as soon as the weather gets a bit nippy.


The axle needs EP90 or EP80 or a multigrade oil that covers that range for example EP75/90. The EP (extreme pressure) bit is important it indicates it is an oil suitable for hypoid gears.

[Edited on 12/1/09 by britishtrident]


nick205 - 12/1/09 at 11:29 AM

Millers has been recomended on here for older engines not sure it's that cheap though.

For my Pinto I use bog basic mineral oil from the motor factors (15w50 I think), a genuine Motorcraft filter and change every 1500 miles (it does get a good pasting.

IMHO genuine filters and regular changes are the key to good engine life.


robertst - 12/1/09 at 01:40 PM

so synthetic is not an good choice then?
im saying this because mineral oil is starting to become a little bit rare where i come from...

some months ago i chose to buy a big can of mobil 1 0W40 and thank god i didn't put it in yet because i know it'll leak like water through a colander.


britishtrident - 12/1/09 at 02:54 PM

A part synth is always OK

Although it wouldn't be my choice for an Xflo fully synth 0w/40 shouldn't give problems unless the engine has bore/piston/pistonring problems or bad valve guide wear.
As far as I can recall Xflows have no natural rubber seals, however lets face it most Xflos have bore and valve guide wear .


carpmart - 12/1/09 at 09:00 PM

I've always been very happy with Valvoline Racing VR1 oil in my pinto. It's 20w50 and I would have thought it perfect for the crossflow.


britishtrident - 13/1/09 at 09:00 AM

In my youth I spent a large chunk of time jump starting xllo Cortinas because they wouldn't start as soon as the weather turned cold. In those days Fords had a really bad reputaton for non starting, Using a 10w/40 oil in place of 20w/50 oil made a big difference.


rusty nuts - 13/1/09 at 07:24 PM

Valvoline VRI . Modern electronics and pre engaged starters have made starting a lot more reliable . Any thing thinner will leak. Valvoline VRI will also give better oil pressure and consumption


Amsoil - 14/1/09 at 01:08 AM

Best oil is as per my username.
Used it in the engine of my Le Mans car for over 3 years without changing it (No I'm not barking , the oil was analysed after each race). The gearbox oil was put in in 2001 and will be changed now as the CWP is out of life and the box must be fully rebuilt with new parts.


David Jenkins - 14/1/09 at 08:45 AM

I use whatever brand-name 20W50 I can find - and keep my battery on a 'maintenance' trickle charger when the car's not in use. This, combined with Megajolt ignition and properly set-up bike carbs, means that the car will start on the 1st or 2nd attempt, even when the weather's sub-zero.

It is a pig to start when the battery's not 100% though.