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Pinto cam identification
Hugh_ - 17/2/09 at 08:45 PM

I've been having a look at my BV head (44.4 inlets, 38.1 outlets) which came with the car when I bought it prior to fitting. It is purported to have previously seen 170hp (haha) but I can't find any reference to the cam.

It is stamped K355-C on the shaft, and KCGP1 and RB on the end. Any clues?


vinny1275 - 17/2/09 at 09:00 PM

At a rough guess, I would say Kent Cams GP1 - Still in their brochure, not sure if the specs would have changed since yours was new (probably not) - would be worth giving them a ring, they should be able to get the tech details for you....

HTH


Vicne


deezee - 17/2/09 at 09:04 PM

Sounds like a Kent Cam GP1 for the 2.0L Pinto. They call it a Race Camshaft.

Application -- Race
Power Band -- 3500-8000
Cam Lift(mm) -- 7.51
Valve Lift(mm) -- I 12.49 E 12.14
Duration -- I 313 Deg E 311 Deg
Timing -- 48/85 85/45
Full Lift -- 108 Deg
VC (mm) -- I 0.20 E 0.25
LTDC -- I 3.43mm
Required Parts -- CF36 / VS42


24vseven - 17/2/09 at 09:06 PM

yes i would agree check here

http://www.kentcams.com/

if you pu in gp1 and search click on one of the options it gives you the spec

damn to slow lol

[Edited on 17/2/09 by 24vseven]


Hugh_ - 17/2/09 at 09:08 PM

Ok cool, does anyone know what you need to do to get a 2.1 to 8k rpm more than once?


24vseven - 17/2/09 at 09:23 PM

in a word lots
i stand to be corrected here but i think you need uprated rods and pistons arp bolts double dowl flywheel ligten and balance and watch the clearance on the valve to piston if the head has been skimed


mookaloid - 17/2/09 at 09:31 PM

quote:
Originally posted by Hugh_
Ok cool, does anyone know what you need to do to get a 2.1 to 8k rpm more than once?


Depends on which bottom end you have. if it's a 205 injection block then you should be ok with ARP bolts and lightening and dynamic balancing. however if the head is a good one you don't need to go to 8K to get 170 bhp - just over 7K should be enough and 170 BHP is not a silly figure for a pinto if well built.

Cheers

Mark


MikeRJ - 17/2/09 at 10:26 PM

quote:
Originally posted by mookaloid
Depends on which bottom end you have. if it's a 205 injection block then you should be ok with ARP bolts and lightening and dynamic balancing. however if the head is a good one you don't need to go to 8K to get 170 bhp - just over 7K should be enough and 170 BHP is not a silly figure for a pinto if well built.



The cam only starts making power at 3500 RPM; having a bottom end only capable to 7000RPM means you suffer the idle and driveability issues of a race cam but don't get the full benefits of it.

If this is for a road engine I'd definitely consider getting a milder cam.


mark chandler - 17/2/09 at 10:44 PM

You could soften the cam by running it around 7 degrees advanced which would rein in the power and little and make it more useable.

Throttle bodies would also help control it a little over large carbs, as the car is light you could be okay but I suspect a pain to drive on the open road, its really a track only cam.


Hugh_ - 18/2/09 at 12:02 AM

Thanks again for the replies guys. It is a 205 block with balanced crank and lightened flywheel, and as it's got them I assume ARP bolts but I will drop the sump at the first oil change and check. It's on Dellorto 45s and will have a megajolt.

As I'm coming from a fireblade which didn't have much below 5 and ran out of clock at 11 I will give it a go with this cam, it will get a mix of road and track use. I love the sound of lumpy idles though I've never had to live with one.


mookaloid - 18/2/09 at 12:28 AM

quote:
Originally posted by MikeRJ
quote:
Originally posted by mookaloid
Depends on which bottom end you have. if it's a 205 injection block then you should be ok with ARP bolts and lightening and dynamic balancing. however if the head is a good one you don't need to go to 8K to get 170 bhp - just over 7K should be enough and 170 BHP is not a silly figure for a pinto if well built.



The cam only starts making power at 3500 RPM; having a bottom end only capable to 7000RPM means you suffer the idle and driveability issues of a race cam but don't get the full benefits of it.

If this is for a road engine I'd definitely consider getting a milder cam.


I Agree I used a FR33 and got over 170BHP at just over 7K - power tailed off by 7.5K so no point in going to 8K