As the question really...
I have a pair of them fitted to the TR6 engine in the TVR...
The float bowels had quite a lot of sediment at the bottom so I want to clean out the carbs...
Only problem is.. working out where to get replacement parts from...
And working out how to retune them,.... the mixture screw is not imediatly obvious.... which is annoying..
Anyone know anyhting about them??
I'll take your word for it that they are Strombergs, but they don't half look like SU's
Used to know a bit about them but I've forgotten now, I'm afraid.
I expect British Trident will be able to answer your question
John
They will be Stromberg 175 CD-2 SE Carbs
Service kits pop up on ebay every now and again. Other than that a quick google will probably find you some relevant info...
David
Edited to add theres a service kit on ebay here:
Linky
[Edited on 13/3/09 by flak monkey]
Def SU HS6 carbs from a dolly sprint. The stombergs have the float chamber integral to the main body, those have a seperate float chamber. Tops of
which will say SU.
The adjuster is a nut under the body of the carb where the jet is attached. http://www.mintylamb.co.uk/?page=sutune.htm
Bits can be had from burlen fuel systems. They are the main suppliers to everybody.
[Edited on 13/3/09 by cliftyhanger]
[Edited on 13/3/09 by cliftyhanger]
You are quite right...
This is a 175 Stromberg
Thanks for the info 
They dont look quite like any HS6 carbs I can find pictures of on google though.... :s
I might be able to get away without buying new parts... I just need to be able to clean them of the sediment etc and put them back togehter..... does
this sound a bad idea?
quote:
Originally posted by flak monkey
You are quite right...
This is a 175 Stromberg
quote:
Originally posted by tegwin
Thanks for the info
They dont look quite like any HS6 carbs I can find pictures of on google though.... :s
I might be able to get away without buying new parts... I just need to be able to clean them of the sediment etc and put them back togehter..... does this sound a bad idea?
quote:
Originally posted by mr henderson
quote:
Originally posted by flak monkey
HS6's
Right back atcha 
Agh quality.... will give it a go tommorow... might see if I can polish up the bell top things a bit as well
Weird that mine are much shorter than most in pictures..... Must be an early version or something weird... nothing with this car is
"normal"!
Any... once again, Locosbuilders answers another useemingly unanswerable question!
As said def SUs, Dead simple carbs that had origins about a century ago . Service kits and also the needles readily available . Might be worth removing the dashpot (top cover with the plastic damper in the middle) and the piston to remove the needle which will be marked . Quote the markings on the needle to ensure you get the right ones. Suspect the engine you have isn't a TR6 which IIRC were all injected?? Could be you have an engine from a Triumph 2500?. Is there a tag on one of the float chamber screws ? ,again quote any numbers when ordering parts. Check for any spindle wear before going too far with the carbs .Can recommend the Carburretor Exchange in Leighton Buzzard for any carb repairs
When you get them off it will be stamped on them somewhere exactly what they are
quote:
Originally posted by flak monkey
When you get them off it will be stamped on them somewhere exactly what they are
quote:
Originally posted by rusty nuts
As said def SUs, Dead simple carbs that had origins about a century ago . Service kits and also the needles readily available . Might be worth removing the dashpot (top cover with the plastic damper in the middle) and the piston to remove the needle which will be marked . Quote the markings on the needle to ensure you get the right ones. Suspect the engine you have isn't a TR6 which IIRC were all injected?? Could be you have an engine from a Triumph 2500?. Is there a tag on one of the float chamber screws ? ,again quote any numbers when ordering parts. Check for any spindle wear before going too far with the carbs .Can recommend the Carburretor Exchange in Leighton Buzzard for any carb repairs
Check for any movement in the throttle spindles where they go through the carb body. Any amount of movement other than rotational (up and down , side to side)will cause air leaks and upset any adjustment making the engine run rough. Spindles can be replaced but the bodies can wear , sorting that out isn't really a D.I.Y job
All carbs wear, if the cost of sorting them out looks a bit much. consider megasquirt. 2.5 Triumphs run good with PI!
John
quote:
Originally posted by mr henderson
All carbs wear, if the cost of sorting them out looks a bit much. consider megasquirt. 2.5 Triumphs run good with PI!
John
Sadly this car has already eaten my overdraft... so its going to be a while
before I can make ANY improvements
They look like HS8's to me. Thats 2" SU's.
We used to use them on our racing TR4.
Here are some on a 1972 TR6.
See link for more pics.
http://www.lastdeadlast.com/coppermine/thumbnails.php?album=1&page=1
Geoff
Hmm.... I will have to clean up the castings and find the number and settle this in the morning....
Im still not convinced its either!
Um... Check this
out...Check this out .... I wonder
[Edited on 13/3/09 by tegwin]
They have remote reservoirs so the mixture is turning the big brass nut directly underneath the centre of the main body. You will know you have the
right adjustment if you see the brass sleeve that the needle drops inside raise or lower when looking directly in the top of the carb..
On old carbs the needle has to be perfectly straight and central within this hole or the whole assembly will bind up. If you lift and drop the piston
it should fall with a satisfying clunk when it hits the floor of the carb body, later ones are sprung loaded. That looks early!
Lots of TR6's her in Canada, never seen one with FI, most had SU's, some with Strombergs IMHO.
I used to look after a badly restored one with SU's, looked very nice till you checked the gaps at the front and rear of the doors, real pain to
get consistant gaps.
As I said earlier, def HS6 carbs off a dolly sprint, they have a shorter dashpot to give bonnet clearance. I have a set or two in my garage. The
needle will be sprung, not the earlier fixed one. The dolly sprint needles are about right for a 2.5 triumph 6.
These carbs were a good upgrade on imported TR250/6 engines from the ststes, as the emission controlled strombergs were hopeless. Also many people
consider the SU to be better than UK strombergs too. Or it may be somebody just had a set and put them on a PI lump, post the engine number and I van
dig around for info.
The carbs are dead easy to service. If the butterfly spindles are worn then fitting new ones (£10 each) will help a lot even if there is some wear in
the body. Oversize spindles usd to be available too, not sure thesedays.
The jets can cause problems too, especially if fitted with "waxstats" as they can cause excessive leaning off of the mixture when hot, and
being next to the manifold is not good! A heatshield is available which helps a lot. The waxstat jets are spotted easily as they have a flat bottom
and are metal at the bottom, "normal" jets are plastic at the bottom as per link I gave earlier on tuning.
There is also a locost method of "dewaxstating" a jet for 2p here http://www.nireland.com/gd.triumph/waxstats.htm
Finally stripping and cleaning will help, but do not be tempted to polish inside the dashpot and piston, it will ruin the carb. And keep them as a
matched pair!
http://www.sucarb.co.uk/
They are the standard HS6 from a 2500TC --- the airfilter plate is dished so they look shorter. You will probably find they are
"Waxstat" type with a two pennce sized wax thermostat at the botom of the jet holder --- HS series carbs weren't great the waxstat
type was a pain in the bum.
The SU ref number with be found on a tag held on by one the screws that hold the float bowl lid on.
Burlen services or Rimmer Brothers can supply spares.
Take care when dismantling the carb the carb dashpot and piston are made to quite close tolerances, any dirt rough treatment will cause the piston to
bind in its bore.
Disagree, def the short dashpot sprint version! I have a few pairs of each in the garage.
Makes no odds to the rest of the carb though.
I would avoid rimmers, most staff are not too knowledgable.
quote:
Originally posted by cliftyhanger
As I said earlier, def HS6 carbs off a dolly sprint, they have a shorter dashpot to give bonnet clearance. I have a set or two in my garage. The needle will be sprung, not the earlier fixed one. The dolly sprint needles are about right for a 2.5 triumph 6.
These carbs were a good upgrade on imported TR250/6 engines from the ststes, as the emission controlled strombergs were hopeless. Also many people consider the SU to be better than UK strombergs too. Or it may be somebody just had a set and put them on a PI lump, post the engine number and I van dig around for info.
The carbs are dead easy to service. If the butterfly spindles are worn then fitting new ones (£10 each) will help a lot even if there is some wear in the body. Oversize spindles usd to be available too, not sure thesedays.
The jets can cause problems too, especially if fitted with "waxstats" as they can cause excessive leaning off of the mixture when hot, and being next to the manifold is not good! A heatshield is available which helps a lot. The waxstat jets are spotted easily as they have a flat bottom and are metal at the bottom, "normal" jets are plastic at the bottom as per link I gave earlier on tuning.
There is also a locost method of "dewaxstating" a jet for 2p here http://www.nireland.com/gd.triumph/waxstats.htm
Finally stripping and cleaning will help, but do not be tempted to polish inside the dashpot and piston, it will ruin the carb. And keep them as a matched pair!
http://www.sucarb.co.uk/
Now fully cleaned and rebuilt complete with 2 pennies in each...
Once my new water pump arrives I can see if I have managed to bugger them up, or if they actually now work properly
Need to get some sort of carb balancing tool now I think so I can get them running right