Due to the power from my engine I had to consider an uprated clutch. Fully engaged wasn't a problem but when trying a quick get a way I could overwhelm the standard clutch.

Anyway with some trepidation I ordered a Helix cerametallic 4 paddle friction plate and matching uprated cover plate. I had read about the issues with some paddle clutches being very trickey in traffic but I was assured by the guys at Fensport the Helix kit was very driveable.

I've now done a few miles and can now confirm that the kit is very similar to a standard clutch. If anything its better than the cheap re-manufactured clutches I've been using as its very precise in operation. There's a small increase in pedal stiffness and the engagement has a very distinct bite to it. Best way to describe it is if you drop the clutch just a little too quickly the plate grabs, compresses the centre springs and you get a bit more shunt than a standard organic clutch. I'm already adjusting to this though and can easily get a nice controllable tail slide out of junctions. Before I would just get a nice smell of slipping clutch!

Obviously the cost is greatly increased but if you can avoid slipping the clutch it should theoretically last longer (on my car anyway). The material is better and it will withstand much higher temperatures.

Just my 2p's worth if anyone else is considering one.

[Edited on 22-3-09 by bimbleuk]

Motorsport clutches arn't half as bad as they are made out to be. I fitted an AP 2 plate cerametalic clutch with tales of doom ringing in my ears and found similar experiences to bimbleuk.

Mine does not even have center springs and is easily controllable with care and slips and bites evenly.

I also found that with care you can mix and match plates and baskets from different manufacturers to keep the cost down and the spec up. I used superclutch baskets with AP plates and it worked well - after I learned the right way to install clutches that is!