Hi,
Ive just bought a car with a 1300 crossflow engine that ive finally sorted the timing on. It runs sweet for about 45 seconds then dies without coughing or spluttering.

Symptoms are;

The Coil gets hot (too hot to touch)
Bogs down when throttle is touched
Has new plugs
Has new condenser & Points
Has new Distributor Cap
Leads are ok

Originally had a problem with the timing which we have reset as per TDC. this allows the engine to run now, but not for long.

Any ideas?

I Think the next step is to replace the leads (to be sure), the coil, and check all the wiring.

is it a 12v coil or ment to be one with a 9v feed?

coils knackered?

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Originally posted by will121
is it a 12v coil or ment to be one with a 9v feed?

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Originally posted by omega0684
coils knackered?

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could be ok at first but stops firing as it gets too hot?

coil get very warm - if you work out the power dissipated it is, from memory, equivalent of 40 W light bulb - try holding that in your hand!

easy way to check coil.

measure primarey resistance 3 ohm is normal 12 V coil

1.5 ohm is 9 V coil meant to run with ballast resistor.

(you disconnect all leads to coil when measuring)

might seem a daft question and i don't want to start a thread drift but how do you measure resistance?

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Originally posted by a4gom
might seem a daft question and i don't want to start a thread drift but how do you measure resistance?

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Setting the timing at TDC will possibly be the cause of the engine "bogging down " when opening the throttle. Does the engine start straight away after cutting out? If not check for spark and fuel if you have a spark. Using a ballast type coil without a resistor will cause the condensor to fail but not normally after 45 seconds, check the points for blue contacts which is a typical sign of condensor failure. Might also be worth checking the auto advance mechanism isn't siezed . If you can find one a Valencia distributor is a good cheap mod .

Another small possibilty, after the electical stuff warming up then breaking down stuff has been checked is that of a piece of debris in the float chamber being drawn towards the feed to the jet, then blocking it.

Happened to me on an old Ford many years ago. Was convinced it was an electrical problem.

John

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Originally posted by mr henderson
Another small possibilty, after the electical stuff warming up then breaking down stuff has been checked is that of a piece of debris in the float chamber being drawn towards the feed to the jet, then blocking it.

Happened to me on an old Ford many years ago. Was convinced it was an electrical problem.

John

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Its sorted.

It was the coil after all. Managed to borrow an old one from Andybarbet and install it today. Fired up straight away, and had it ticking over for about 20 minutes before taking it for a quick spin.

Still lower compression on cylinders 3 & 4, but as long as it runs! It felt grossly underpowered, and the brakes (although Drums all round) were surprisingly very good.

Is it possible to swap the 1300 crossflow with the 1600 crossflow? I would imagine its the same block and could use the same mounts and transmission...?

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Originally posted by MakeEverything
Is it possible to swap the 1300 crossflow with the 1600 crossflow? I would imagine its the same block and could use the same mounts and transmission...?

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Cool. What about a 1600 head on a 1300 block?

It's the block that's taller, IIRC!

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Originally posted by David Jenkins
It's the block that's taller, IIRC!

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Originally posted by MakeEverything
Sorry,
What i meant was, will the 1600 head fit the 1300 block?

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Originally posted by MikeRJ

There are two types of crossflow head; the early ones had shallow combustions chambers in the head, the later ones are totaly flat. As long as the replacement head is of the same type it will be ok. If you are running high lift cams, you should re-check piston clearances if you fit a head with larger valves.

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