Hi,

my pinto idle speed is irratic. Seems to idle high when engine is cold between 2 and 2500 rpm. But when hot idles really low / cuts out. I am currently running without a thermostat. (unsure if this makes a difference).

Is it a timing issue? Do i need to turn the dizzy? Not sure how i would set this up????

Sorry for the dumb questions lol

It never harms to check the timing out. Pinto's are tolerant to incorrect settings (ref starting) but will run run rough unless about right. I used an advance timing light to set mine up more accurately once i had the engine running. I managed to get a 2nd hand snap on light cheaply, other makes are worth having too. These allow you to set what advance you want and then just line up the marks by turning the dizzy (while engine is running).

Other than timing it could be fuelling. What set up do you have? (Fuel and ignition).

Is throttle cable OK? Just wondering if you can put pressure on the butterfly when engine is cold and slow down the tick-over? I had to add a spring to my bike carbs but that was more to bring the revs down quicker when driving it and changing gear.

what carburetter you using on your pinto?

Is it on choke when cold ? that would make it rev faster
What carb are you using ?

some pintos used a carb where the coolant temp operated the choke device, if your running without thermostat then its possible that the engine is overcooled which could affect your choke device

Something as simple as an air leak?
Closing up as the temp goes up?

I have a 1.8 pinto. It has coolant controlled auto choke. Never set up the timing or used a timing light. Might be worth a go. Fuel is standard Ford pump bolted to engine. K&N air filter poking through bonnet. (built on a budget as you can tell)

mate you need to start with the basics, get you timing sorted, personally i would stick an 88 degree thermastat in, make sure your spark plugs a set to 25 thou, check your dizzy contacts and rotor arm are in good nice, ht leads are worn and all working,carbs are clean and unobstructed

That's all great advice. Thank you. I will get the timing sorted, service the carb and then i think new plugs, leads, dizzy cap and rotor arm. Best to go with all new parts as they are not too expensive and I believe it's good house keeping

You got it - basically start with a full service and tune up if it hasnt been done yet. Assume the last owner was a numpty and didnt look after it - you cant go far wrong then. Once those things are eliminated you can go deeper but the best advice is to check the simple bits. There cant be much wrong if it is starting easily and ticking over.

The bits are cheap but one word of caution - just cos they are new doesnt mean they will be 100% good. Ive had a faulty dizzy cap (carbon brush wore away very quickly) and a faulty rotor arm on seperate occasions before. Also had a brand new electronic ignition module fail on me (intermotor brand), but i guess you are running std dizzy with points at the mo.

When problem solving things like this the other rule is change one bit at a time. If it were me id change the ignition parts as one step, check and adjust timing as another. If you do too much in one go and you wont know what the root cause is.

Keep it simple. I had an issue once whereby on full throttle under load (up hill) it would miss and stutter at higher revs, slow it down and it ran like a dream. i was thinking all sorts of things were wrong. Just about ready to strip and rebuild the carb. Turned out to be a partially blocked fuel filter (tiny amount of swarfe from drilling tank for sender had worked its way through the lines).

Using the sierra igniton module. The one with 6 wires rather than the esccII which was over complicated. lol