I have a standardish EEC IV injection setup on my car, albeit the plenum is chopped and lowered.

I parked the car up a week ago, came back to it and no sparks. There is 14.5v to the +ive side of the coil 14.4v at the -ive, I have fitted an old spark plug to the king lead and get a single good spark when I turn it over, but non after that. On cleaning the dizz cap, I inadvertently broke the centre electrode which is going to delay any further diagnostics until I can get a new one tomorrow.

Has anyone got any brainwaves, diagnostic sequences?

Its the first sunny day in weeks, and I am stuck at home with a dead engine

if you have a spark on the king lead,and no further its got to be rotor arm/dizzy cap... i guess it was broken before you finished it off!


dave

If you have got a spark at the coil lead,
I would hazard a guess and say the problem lies somewhere between the
dizzy and plugs.I had a problem a while
ago when my car broke down.It turned out the king lead had been pulled part of the way out.

Andy

[Edited on 2/8/09 by lotusmadandy]

Test the rotor arm with a multimeter. I've seen 2 arms go in the past both while leading with 5 laps to go for the BIL to be scottish champion

But he said he only got ONE spark

Surely he should get a succession of sparks regardless of the condition downstream ?

Coil's f**ked, it's not got enough sparks to keep the engine going so it needs filling up with sparks again.

Years ago, when cars had points and condensors, one spark meant that the condensor was up the spout, but I have computers instead of points, its the ONE spark bit that is worrying me

Hi, is the dizzy turning when you turn the engine over? also check the timing ive seen the distibutor drive break before.
normally means no spark but if the ignition uses a crank sensor then you could still produce a spark
hope this makes sense

The triggering is by a Hall effect transducer in the distributer which is turning, I can see where you are coming from though

Had a friend with a 2.0 litre granda, he tried testing if it was sparking doing what you have done, but moved the lead a bit further away, the system does not like this at all.

It then sparks internally destroying the box of tricks as there is little overload protection.

I suspect you have fried the iginition system.

[Edited on 2/8/09 by mark chandler]

quote:

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Originally posted by mark chandler
Had a friend with a 2.0 litre granda, he tried testing if it was sparking doing what you have done, but moved the lead a bit further away, the system does not like this at all.

It then sparks internally destroying the box of tricks as there is little overload protection.

I suspect you have fried the iginition system.

[Edited on 2/8/09 by mark chandler]

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Originally posted by Mark Allanson
I cannot see how a plug in the king lead is any different to having a plug in the normal plug lead via the rotor arm and dizz cap?

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quote:

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Originally posted by Mark AllansonYears ago, when cars had points and condensors, one spark meant that the condensor was up the spout, but I have computers instead of points, its the ONE spark bit that is worrying me

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Originally posted by Peteff

quote:

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Originally posted by Mark Allanson
I cannot see how a plug in the king lead is any different to having a plug in the normal plug lead via the rotor arm and dizz cap?

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It isn't you just get 4 times as many sparks

quote:

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Originally posted by Mark AllansonYears ago, when cars had points and condensors, one spark meant that the condensor was up the spout, but I have computers instead of points, its the ONE spark bit that is worrying me

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If he's using the king lead from the coil it's not going through the distributor.

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Ignition module??

try re-seating the multi connector to the EEC. Mine looked as though it was ok but had moved 1/16" and it just wouldn't go.

Took me two weeks and borrowed a scope before I found it...

Electrics 101 - check everything simple before looking further

Just borrow a coil and try it, the winding in the coil breaks down and shorts inside so one spark is all you get. All the electronic stuff is done in the box and the distributor just acts as a switch not like the old capacitor which caused the coil charge to build up and release as it passed the segment. Also over time the oil in coils can break down and become conductive which can cause short circuits.

Update 8th Aug

I have now replaced the ignition module, the coil, the dizzy cap and rotor arm and it still won't spark

Starting to get depressed now, I am missing what remains of the summer

Is it completely dead now then or do you just get a single spark still?

Are the parts you replaced known to have been working? I.e are you sure the new bits all function?

Is there a crank position sensor on the std efi or does it just work from the dizzy? If there is a seperate crank sensor replace that, or try another dizzy. Its the only remaining part of the ignition system that hasnt been changed.

David

Editied to add have you tried another ignition lead as your king lead?

[Edited on 8/8/09 by flak monkey]

Thanks David,

I will try swapping the leads, but it does appear that the dizzy isn't switching, I cannot hear the injectors clicking either (they get their signal from the dizzy, no crank position sensor).

Has anyone got an injection dizzy for sale?

Oddly enough when my pinto wouldnt go, before i got my car on the road and I had no sparks it was down the the hall module in what was then a brand new dizzy. Infact I had 2 go, so it wouldnt suprise me if that was the problem. I could of course be wrong though.

Someone must have a dizzy laying about you can try

David

Paypal is poised and ready!!!!

A quick update

I got an auto electrician in, I could go and replace things until it worked but it worked out cheaper to change the guilty part.

The module in the dizzy was to blame, I managed to find an new old stock one for £80.00 delivered and had the car running in 10 mins after the courier left. Ideal.

The cost of the sparky was £25 who also fixed my old dizzy in the price so I now have a spare. If anyone gets into the same position, the module in a Saab 900 is the same and can be desoldered out!

I am now back terrorising the holidaymakers in West Cornwall again

quote:

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Originally posted by rusty nuts
Ignition module??

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electronic ignition modules are great until the pack in, as you found out.

got my points distributor timed crossflow going in about 10 minutes.

turned engine over over but made no firing noises - whip off the cap, connect LED lamp, nowt, turn engine over repeat - turned out to be dirty contacts (I did clean and reset them),and soon had spark when turning over.

next put in plug into 1 and 4 and had it going once opened up the throttle on the twin 40s. Fit remaining 2 plugs and bob is your uncle.

no efi, nor anything fancy but got it running without too much drama. simples.