Hi guys,

not sure if this would've been better in Electrics (mods feel free to move) but i was after a bit of help with Megajolt.

Finally got the car running last weekend and managed to flash a map to get it running relatively smoothly. I want it to be as near perfect as possible, but i'm new to the whole tuning thing, so can someone point me in the right direction of how to tune it to the best of its potential?

Alternatively if anyone has a map that they wouldn't mind sharing i would appreciate it. spec is 1.8 Zetec, fireblade carbs, CVH flywheel.

Also, what are the benefits of using 3D as apposed to 2D? currently we're running 2D, but we do have a TPS sensor wired to the carbs which i assume would work if needed.

As always, thanks for your help in advance!

definatly worth connecting the TPS (you need to calibrate it once its wired in)

before you start fine tuning the ignition - have you got the carbs jetted properly ? (rolling road ?)

carbs were jetted by Bogg bros, so no issues there.

Was hoping to get the most out before a RR session.....

carbs jetted by bogg on their RR, or carbs from bogg which came prejetted? If its the second one then the mixture is still likely to be off.

3D is worth it from what I've read. With 2D megajolt will give the same advance at any given RPM (say 3k) whether you're cruising at a given speed or got your foot flat on the floor and just passing 3K on the way to 8K.

Ideally you'd want to timing to be significantly more aggressive at WOT.

quote:

---

Originally posted by cd.thomson
carbs jetted by bogg on their RR, or carbs from bogg which came prejetted? If its the second one then the mixture is still likely to be off.

3D is worth it from what I've read. With 2D megajolt will give the same advance at any given RPM (say 3k) whether you're cruising at a given speed or got your foot flat on the floor and just passing 3K on the way to 8K.

Ideally you'd want to timing to be significantly more aggressive at WOT.

---

^^ what Craig said

bogg bros told me that my ZX9R carbs (supplied and jetted by them) would get me on the road, but that you really need a hour or two on the rollers to get them right

same will be true of the MJ - you can start off with a 3D map from someone else and tweak it a bit as you go (normaly lots of help on the MJ site - but it comes down to trying different settings/maps adjusting them and seeing how it feels)

the rollers will give you a perfect opertunity to get the iginition spot on, and you can measure the changes your making



assuming that everything is set right - a 3D map should give you (among other things) better throttle responce across the rev range and better MPG than a well setup 2D map (if you've already got the TPS there is no good reason not to use it )


[Edited on 10/3/10 by mcerd1]

quote:

---

Originally posted by norfolkluego
WOT? (not what, WOT)

---

You actually need less advance at full throttle than when cruising and more advance on a closed or trailing throttle.
A Zetec seems to run well with about 23 or 26 deg at full load and up to 38degrees on closed throttle at high revs.When the throttle is closed the timing needs to be advanced to compensate for the lower compression caused by the cylinders being less full of mixture.
Paul.

quote:

---

Originally posted by cd.thomson

3D is worth it from what I've read. With 2D megajolt will give the same advance at any given RPM (say 3k) whether you're cruising at a given speed or got your foot flat on the floor and just passing 3K on the way to 8K.

Ideally you'd want to timing to be significantly more aggressive at WOT.

---

excuse my ignorance, but if you are running 2D does that mean you are using vacuum? And 3D is vacuum AND TPS?

Or is it that 2D simply advances the ignition by a set amount per rpm? And the TPS OR vacuum signal adds in the 'load'/3rd dimension?

I'm totally new to megajolt but need to start learning asap as we're about to purchase for our duratec.

Hi dan,

2D just means as rpm increases the ignition timing changes, no other input.

3D takes more information and combines RPM and vacuum/tps to give a more suitable and variable map.

thanks for the correction paulf, can you tell i havent set mine up yet

Wow, this is looking more complicated than first thought. (as has everything so far )

So the general consensus is 2D is ok to get you up and running, but ideally you want 3D? Will a 2D map still run well/not cause any damage etc?

Ultimately we are going to sprint the car, so it needs to be as right as we can get it, but cost is always a limiting factor. Is RR the only way to go for a good setup?

Running a '2D' system on a road car is not a good idea; the reduction in fuel economy can be very significant.

In the days of clockwork ignition, removal of the vacuum advance (to give a '2D' system) was a bodge to work around the limitations of these systems. With a fully mapped solution it would be daft not to make use of an engine load input.

2D is fine and wont hurt anything.

With regards to being on a budget, I have been told on a number of occasions by very wise individuals that as far as tuning is concerned a RR presents the best results per £££. Although the outlay appears to be alot, its almost always more than worth it for the outcome, definitely if you aim to be competitive.

[Edited on 11/3/10 by cd.thomson]

thanks for your help guys. I'll keep you all posted on progress.

quote:

---

Originally posted by cd.thomson
2D is fine and wont hurt anything.

---

quote:

---

Originally posted by MikeRJ

quote:

---

Originally posted by cd.thomson
2D is fine and wont hurt anything.

---

Except your pocket...

---

yes it is probably worth pointing out that youll probably save more money on fuel after a RR than you spent on it in the first place... unless you crash it on your first sprint