Hi all,
i've just bought an XE engine (in pieces/ boxes) to replace the pinto in my tiger avon. I'm about to rebuild the XE and looking for advice on what to replace for OE or to upgrade. It came with kent fast road cams and planing to run it on twin 45's as i already have them. Ignition not sure yet!!!
As mentioned it is in piece form, crank shaft, con rods, pistons, cams etc all in boxes just now. I was planning on replacing big end bearings, ARP con rod bolts, rings, complete gasket set. Do i need to replace head bolts or are these re-useable?
Any advice welcome, i'm hoping to do a few sprints/ hillclimbs with it, nothing too serious!!!! and still drive on the road.
I'm also looking for shallow sump, bellhousing, inlet manifold & exhaust if anyones got for sale.

cheers Sandy

the head bolts are re-useable but for what little they cost you'd be better putting new ones in, that way you know there shouldn't be a problem

best engine ever

dont have time to give a proper response now but will do later on if you havent had one already!

Two main options for ignition are
H and H solutions dizzy around £250 less at shows.
http://www.h-h-ignitionsolutions.co.uk/
Or
Megajolt ECU
http://trigger-wheels.com/store/index1.html

Some people also use old MK2 Vauxhall Cavalier vacuum advance dizzy but this is not set up for your engine unlike the other two.

Nice choice of engine

As always it depends how much you want to spend, it can start to add up quite quick


Fit new head bolts

New big end bearings and ARP's is a good move
Main bearings should be ok unless its had a hard life
( *If* its an early XE the cranks are lighter)

The Rear crank seal can be a Bas***d to get right
Make sure you use the proper Vauxhall spec' sealant

Check/replace Water pump & Timing belt pulleys
Replace Timing belt

Either strip & check or replace the oil pump

Consider fitting SBD's Nylon oil pressure releif valve

Your probably already aware of the head issues that can affect the Non Coscast head engine (Oil & Water mixing)

There's plenty of info' on SBD's website which is well worth a read before you go too far

Autovaux are a good source for spare parts


HTH

Perksy

220 bhp VX

Thanks for the response so far guys, keep it coming, all VERY welcome.

Yeah, as you mentioned the £££'s soon add up! I'm trying to gauge whats worth doing for the ££ and whats not. I guess when the block is stripped this far down it's all worth doing but where do i draw the line. The block is an 89 HH3 with a GM head, (not so good).

I'll be looking to bin the dizzy as the previous guy cut the end of the cam off, the engine was destined for a Mk1 escort.

cheers Sandy

i got a newer ecotec, same block. i'm going for megajolt. its the best way i think

Megajolt works well and allows you to use std Vx ignition leads if you use the newer Ford coil pack (the pins inside the HT posts fit perfectly). The std. trigger wheel is built in to the crank pulley, but doesn't have the right no. of notches to generate the pulse angle that Megajolt expects. You need to budget the time to fit a 36-1 trigger wheel to it or the cash to get a machine shop to fit it for you. I did the latter as I didn't have the gear / lathe to mount the wheel properly, and no regrets.

Best to use ARP rod bolts as others have suggested, if you're planning to raise the rev limit drastically. Head bolts are stretch items - I wouldn't even consider re-using them after being torqued fully.

There is a mod for the non-coscast head, if you find it to be porous.

Valve stem seals are cheap and are a common cause of smoky engines. You need a spring compressor with a wide span to remove the valves, though. While you're there, strip & clean the lifters - they're fiddly boogers to separate, but it'll do wonders with noisy tappets.
This is a guide that I found helpful

Whilst you have the engine in bits, get the inlet manifold flange face skimmed, to make sure it will fit flat against the head, to ensure that the seal is gas-tight (and water-tight, as the feed to the head water jacket passes through the head...). Improves your carburation consistency no end!

I'd agree with Perksy re. the timing idlers / tensioner, but I wouldn't think of refitting the old ones - IIRC, the originals had plastic bearings that were prone to failure. New belt+new idlers+new tensioner = peace of mind.

Francis.

[Edited on 17/3/10 by mediabloke]

Just do the basics plus the ARPs
they are largely bullet proof unless you plan on going for silly HPs.
I rang the nuts out mine for 5 years anod only ever needed to do one head gasket.
IIRC headbolts are stretch type and only £1~ from VX.

quote:

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Originally posted by loggyboy
they are largely bullet proof unless you plan on going for silly HPs.

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quote:

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Originally posted by mediabloke
I'd agree with Perksy re. the timing idlers / tensioner, but I wouldn't think of refitting the old ones - IIRC, the originals had plastic bearings that were prone to failure. New belt+new idlers+new tensioner = peace of mind.

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